Lionel Trainmaster 1044

[Anonymous]

My father's Trainmaster No. 1044 (90 Watts), while looking immaculate, has a power cord which hardened over age , flaked off in parts, and needs to be replaced. I am therefore forced to run the train on an MTH  Rail King Z-750, which powers the train, but has no hook-ups for the accessories. My question is this: while replacing the power cord on the Trainmaster seems simple enough with some soldering, should I be aware of any other issues which may have cropped up over the years as the thing aged? I don't want to put the new cord on, plug it in, and go up like the hot seat at Sing Sing...... Any advice would be appreciated...

[otftch]

Most say not to do this but I do it all the time.To get the right polarity make sure the ground side of the plug wire goes to ground on the transformer.If you look carefully you can tell which is which.If you can't tell don't atempt the repair.

                                                                     Ed

[Anonymous]

Well, let me ask this then.....what do you estimate the cost to have it done "professionally" versus the cost of a new transformer????

[Anonymous]

guinnessczar,

Look at the original plug. If both prongs are the same size, the transformer didn't use a polarized plug to begin with. I'm sure "otftch" has his reasons, but I've never used polarized plugs on my postwar transformers.* You can get replacement cords online from any parts dealer, or visit Home Depot and get a rubber non-polarized cord marked "Heater."

I don't trust the circuit breakers in older transformers, so I always put an inline fast-blow fuse between the transformer and the track. You can get external circuit breakers from Scott's Odds 'n' Ends.  Four (4) amps is perfect, five (5) amps is OK, but go no higher. The old ones are difficult to remove, so I just leave them where they are.

*Many, if not all, modern train transformers DO use polarized plugs, but the old ones didn't.

[Anonymous]

Yes, you are right--both prongs are the same size, and since I live in a house where there are no 3 prong outlets and fuses are still in the circuit boxes (I haven't blown one in 3 years, ha ha) I guess I will just get that replacement cord and give it a try.....

[Anonymous]

guinnessczar,

Brilliant!

Heater cord comes in at least two gauges, 18 and the heavier 16. I haven't been inside a 1044 recently, but many Lionel transformers use a pair of "eyelets" that one solders the new cord to. The heavier 16 gauge may be mechanicallly too thick to fit through the eyelet, and one risks disturbing (or even breaking) the remarkably thin wires that lead to the primary coil.

Therefore, all things considered, I would get the 18 gauge wire*, cut off any factory-installed lugs on the ends, and then "tin" the tips lightly so that they will insert readily and solder easily. Don't forget to tie a "strain relief knot" in the new cord so that there is no possibility of yanking on the solder connection. Use the old cord as a guide as to where to put the knot.

 

*It should carry 10 amps with ease -- much more than you want to draw through a 1044.

[martinden]

Just as an observation, train parts dealers sell cords specifically intended to replace Lionel transformer cords. Part # B-292, IIRC. They're not expensive.

[Anonymous]

Martinden,

Thanks for posting the part number. I didn't have it this morning and Olsen's website was down.

As for the relative cost, I suspect shipping will cost more than the item with an online parts dealer. Don't know where "guinnessczar" lives, but I have 5 (count them, 5) Home Depot stores within an 18 mile radius, and two within 7 miles -- and they all carry black rubber heater cord.

[otftch]

I don't use the third wire plugs.I use the double plug with a larger spade, only for possible phasing purposes later.

                                                           Ed

[Anonymous]

otftch

Ed,

Point taken, but marking the plug with a piece of tape or a dab of paint would accomplish almost the same thing as far as future phasing issues are concerned.

Moreover, if guinessczar lives in a house with an older two-wire system, would the wall sockets accept the wide prong of a modern plug? (I honestly can't remember....)

If not, he'd have to grind down the wide prong to match the narrow one* and then he'd be right back where he is today. Yes?

*Or choose a more complicated and likely more expensive solution.

[Anonymous]

My two cents: I had an MTH Z-750 and it while it is a fine transformer for its purpose it is inadequate to run a layout. A command engine pulling passenger cars creates a power draw that the 750 simply can't handle. And as you point out there are no accessory posts. I ended up doing the following: 1. My father's Type R Trainmaster transformer needed some posts re-attached and other maintenance. Our local shop did all this for $30. The transformer works very well and now powers (via the 14v posts) all lights (I purchased a board from Minatronics to attach all the wires) on the layout AWA all accessories, and ALSO the interior loops and switches of tubular track on my layout. This transformer is a real soldier. Obviously you will need the working seperate whistle/reverse unit; my father's worked fine without any maintenance. 2. I combined this with one of the Williams 150-watters. I like this transformer but was not a deleriously happy as I expected to be. The power cord is TERRIBLE - thick and difficult to bend, and attached to the power unit through a plastic connection that can only be described as lousy. The posts contacts can only be desribed as temperamental. However, it does provide ample power and the brake feature is quite nice. It has two accessory posts, but they are 12 volts, not 14. The command base is hooked up to the Williams, so I can't run command on the isolated tubular interior lines; however, given that track is 0-31 curves with a half-section to prevent binding on turns that is no loss. The Williams can be bought CHEAP - I got mine from JustTrains for $99. The combination of this power works very well, though it was obviously muddled through by someone (me) who doesn't have much experience in layout design and building. Oh - the 750? It is going to my six year old son to replace the truly awful Lionel 40-watter that powers (if you can use the phrase with that thing) his starter set.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the help fellas....... I think it answers my question.  My next post in the near future will concern the repair of an operating milk car, but I need to take some photos of the trucks and wiring so that you can tell me what needs to be replaced and where to get the parts....

[lionelsoni]

For those thinking of marking plugs, you might want to follow the electric-code convention of always "identifying" the grounded conductor, however you do it.  For a plug with an equipment ground, this is the first, flat, blade counterclockwise from the round equipment ground pin.  For the outlet it is the first clockwise.  For plugs and outlets with two sizes of blades, the grounded conductor is the wider one.

Zip cord, that is, the common flexible cable with two insulated conductors fused together, has an almost invisible ridge cast into the side of one conductor's insulation.  That is the "identified" conductor and should be the grounded one.

Screw terminals use a white-colored screw to identify the grounded conductor, and a green screw for the equipment ground.  Other screws are brass colored.