Fastrack Crossing Flasher Isolation Question

[MartyE]

It will have to wait till after the holidays.  I have a "once it's working" policy for the tree layout.  They are nice little sections though.

 

[ChiefEagles]

Marty, you got one?  If so, so some exploring. 

[MartyE]

I guess I should have said easily...  as there is no factory installed way.  I'm sure if we open it up the possibilities would be endless.

[ChiefEagles]

I'd have to look at one upside down.  Marty knows his electronics.  You might have to do some cutting or disassembling.  Lets all scratch our heads and I will do a "look see" when I go to Miss Edna's.

[Anonymous]

Raleigh, do you understand the use of a separate fixed voltage for accessories?  You can arrange to use one fixed voltage for the accessory and another variable voltage for the train.  The wiring details are simple but depend very much on what kind of transformer(s) you have.  If you can let us know, we may be able to tell you how to hook it up so that the train doesn't have to be moving faster than you might want.

Yes.  All my postwar switches and all the illuminated buildings are hooked up to the 14v fixed posts on the Type R Trainmaster (the fixed voltage posts on the Williams are 12v only).

It would be neat if the flashers could be run on a fixed voltage but I see no reasonable way to do that. If someone knows how that would be quite helpful.

I should add, to answer your specific question, the Fastrack lines are powered by a Williams 150v new transformer, the interior tubular loops by a pw Trainmaster Type R. I again appreciate your assistance!

[MartyE]

Thanks Bob.  Bob is right.  You can power the accessory with a fixed higher voltage and this will solve your bell problem. 

 

You cannot do this with the Fast Track Crossing w/ flashers and lights.  There is no aux input that I have seen as it gets it's p;ower from the track itself.  Sort of a molded in accessory. 

[ChiefEagles]

Thanks Bob.  Bob is right.  You can power the accessory with a fixed higher voltage and this will solve your bell problem. 

[lionelsoni]

Raleigh, do you understand the use of a separate fixed voltage for accessories?  You can arrange to use one fixed voltage for the accessory and another variable voltage for the train.  The wiring details are simple but depend very much on what kind of transformer(s) you have.  If you can let us know, we may be able to tell you how to hook it up so that the train doesn't have to be moving faster than you might want.

[ADCX Rob]

If you put the bar back, it will be like rolling wheels right over that track - the signal will run continuously.

Rob 

[Anonymous]

OK, with great thanks to everyone, I believe I now have this problem pretty much fixed.

As the Chief speculated, the bell was a question of voltage. I was running a Williams GP-9 with only a few cars as a test consist. That doesn't use much juice, as we know. When I turned the voltage up, it worked fine.

So what we have ended up with is this: The connector plate/shorting bar is removed, as is the connector pin on the insulated rail side. I have placed a small piece of electrical tape between the de-pinned sections, which seems to do the trick.

I believe I may even be able to re-install the connector plate/shorting bar, since the rail in question is now physically separated. Any thoughts on this? Or does it really make any difference in the long run whether that one plate is there or not?

Thanks again to all for your patience as I dope my way through what must seem a simple conundrum to most.

[wrmcclellan]

Raleigh,

As you found out, removing the pin is not always enough. You can file the end of the track rail so the rails do not touch. Cutting a rail also works well, but as others have said, you must turn the section of track over and see if you need to remove the metal shorting bar that connects the two outer rails together. You can pry up the tabs and remove the shorting section and then put the tabs back down.

The shorting section is normally located such that depending upon the direction where you want the cut/isolated rail to extend, you may or may not have to remove the shorting bar. To avoid the ends of the cut rail lifting up, I always cut the rail halfway between the sets of tabs that secure the rail to the plastic roadbed.

Note - when you cut Fastrack (particularly when using a Dremel Tool like I do) you get a lot of metal filings that can build up inside the rail and these can tend to short the cut ends back together. This can drive you nuts when the isolated rail does not work properly. Make sure you blow out the filings and drag a small screwdriver or knife blade through the gap to clean it out. If your isolated section ever stops working, clean the gap first. I have been amazed how a little piece of metal filing can appear in the gap a year later.

Further note - look carefully when you cut the Fastrack rail. There are some areas where the rail goes below the plastic roadbed for power connector terminals. So it is wise to avoid those areas for isolation gaps. When I use the Dremel with a cut-off wheel, I make sure I cut a bit into the roadbed to insure I do not have a shard of metal that still bridges the gap embedded in the roadbed.

[ChiefEagles]

Take a car [no the engine] and run it across the section by hand.  Turn up the voltage to the track [I'm sure you are not running TMCC with track voltage of 18 V].  See if the bell sounds louder.  It maybe the train is running at a too low voltage to make it work.  Let us know. 

[Anonymous]

OK. I removed the metal strip no problem. I then removed the metal pin. However, it appears that the ends of the rails still touched, even with the pin removed - as the flashers and bell activated.

I then placed a bit of electrical tape between the sections. The lights now flash when the train crosses the section. However, the bell does not work properly now - very low and weak and static-y.

Now I am really confused. Thanks to anyone with an additional tip.

[ChiefEagles]

You have to remove the metal pin too.  If you are not sure, go to Miss Edna's and buy the TM video on building layouts [$17].  Real good.  It shows you how to do insulated track sections on Fasttrac.  I think the guy ment, don't use a hacksaw but ment use something else like a Dremial tool that cuts smoother. 

[Anonymous]

Removing the metal strip that connects the outside rails together is good for isolating an ouside rail, but then you must remove the connectors at the end of each section to isolate from other sections. In the case of an operating section, just pulling out connectors will isolate it.

Thanks to all for these responses. But I am a little confused. I see the rationale for merely removing the metal strip. However, when looking at the isolator track that comes with the accessory, it appears that hacksawing the track is precisely what Lionel did, viz, there is a clear "space" in the outside insulated rail.

However, I will try the metal strip route. Thanks again to those who responded!

[Santa Fe Kent]

Removing the metal strip that connects the outside rails together is good for isolating an ouside rail, but then you must remove the connectors at the end of each section to isolate from other sections. In the case of an operating section, just pulling out connectors will isolate it.

[Santa Fe Kent]

I would never take a hacksaw to my track! All you have to is bend up the tabs holding the end of the rail down (underneath) and the metal connectors will come right out. Then push the rail down and flatten the tabs again. It's almost too easy!

[IronHoarse]

I have Fastrack crossing with flasher that you have.  I extended mine with a regular piece of track.  I used a straight piece but you can do the same thing with a curved piece.  If I remember right all I did was remove the metal strip from the under side of the track that connects the two outside rails.  If I am wrong I am sure that someone will correct me.  My layout is 2000 miles away so I can not check to make sure what I had done to it.

[Anonymous]

Hello all:

I have, happily enough, received a Fastrack crossing flasher set for Christmas. However, there is a problem.

The only convenient place for this accessory on the layout is following, at least on one side, a curved section. The flasher section itself fits fine. However, installing the additional isolator tracks will require moving some buildings, streets, and otherwise undoing some pretty good work.

Is there any reason why I cannot create an isolated section by merely hacksawing the outside rail of the curved section on the one side? In short, is that all the "isolated" section is?

Thanks for all help.  Merry Christmas.