Hand Cars

[c50truck]

       One thing I did to improve the performance of my handcars was to add a trailing homemade ore car or small gondola built on a single Lionel truck with a snap-in electrical pick-up, tying the pick-up in electrically to the handcar. The whole thing then collects current over a larger track area and looks more important. It also helps it go through switches and crossovers, and travel better at slower speeds.

 Joe is an expert when it comes to handcar modifications. Here's a picture of his modified handcar:

And here's a link to the details of his handcar modification:

 http://www.josephrampolla.com/NewHandcar.html 

Robert,

Thanks for the link to Joes site!

Joe, I really enjoy your site, and am inspired by your ideas. The ore car with a hand car is great. But I found the HO engines in diecast cars to be to much. I would have never thought of it.

Thanks for the ideas.

Rod LaFrance

 

[rlplionel]

       One thing I did to improve the performance of my handcars was to add a trailing homemade ore car or small gondola built on a single Lionel truck with a snap-in electrical pick-up, tying the pick-up in electrically to the handcar. The whole thing then collects current over a larger track area and looks more important. It also helps it go through switches and crossovers, and travel better at slower speeds.

 Joe is an expert when it comes to handcar modifications. Here's a picture of his modified handcar:

And here's a link to the details of his handcar modification:

 http://www.josephrampolla.com/NewHandcar.html

 

 

[riverrailfan]

The handcars need a considerable amount of break-in(like 2-3 hrs worth).  They could use a good dose of synthetic lube, too(oil on the axles, grease on the worm & wheel).

 

Rob 

 

I find it hard that break in on the motor is the cure. I have experience with the motor that they use in the hand car. They used these in slot cars and break in was not a issue in them. They don't use carbon brushes but 2 copper strips that ride on the commutator. I believe that the break in is related to something else. I did notice that the wheels are saturated in oil. I know that one section of track is insulated and everytime it goes through in one direction it just stops. Possibly the break in is in the wheels as they are less conductive do to the oiling of the wheels. I would like the PE hand car to crawl alittle as the little elves are doing hand stands on the hand bar at the speed you need to run it to keep it going.

The motor is fine right out of the box... notice I didn't say anything about the motor needing lube or attention at all...

It's the whole package - axles, gears, chassis.  The handcars are pretty tight when new, I also put a drop of synthetic oil on the gear axle & arm connection points for the handlebar assembly.  The figures are pretty stiff too when cold as another poster mentions.

Once broken in, the handcar will go slow enough to make it appear the figures are actually pumping with a pronounced speed differential on the "downstrokes".

Rob 

Thanks Rob

You are right and did not mention the motor. These type of motors are good to go with no break in like a carbon brush motor. I will try the hobo hand car and see what happens as the PE is already wrapped for my son. Synthetic oil is all I use.

I have one question though. Do you break in running on the track or do a no load break in. The only difference would be one axle will not be spinning.

[jprampolla]

Hi Folks,

       One thing I did to improve the performance of my handcars was to add a trailing homemade ore car or small gondola built on a single Lionel truck with a snap-in electrical pick-up, tying the pick-up in electrically to the handcar. The whole thing then collects current over a larger track area and looks more important. It also helps it go through switches and crossovers, and travel better at slower speeds.

   Merry Christmas !!!!!!

Take care, Joe.

[ADCX Rob]

The handcars need a considerable amount of break-in(like 2-3 hrs worth).  They could use a good dose of synthetic lube, too(oil on the axles, grease on the worm & wheel).

 

Rob 

 

I find it hard that break in on the motor is the cure. I have experience with the motor that they use in the hand car. They used these in slot cars and break in was not a issue in them. They don't use carbon brushes but 2 copper strips that ride on the commutator. I believe that the break in is related to something else. I did notice that the wheels are saturated in oil. I know that one section of track is insulated and everytime it goes through in one direction it just stops. Possibly the break in is in the wheels as they are less conductive do to the oiling of the wheels. I would like the PE hand car to crawl alittle as the little elves are doing hand stands on the hand bar at the speed you need to run it to keep it going.

The motor is fine right out of the box... notice I didn't say anything about the motor needing lube or attention at all...

It's the whole package - axles, gears, chassis.  The handcars are pretty tight when new, I also put a drop of synthetic oil on the gear axle & arm connection points for the handlebar assembly.  The figures are pretty stiff too when cold as another poster mentions.

Once broken in, the handcar will go slow enough to make it appear the figures are actually pumping with a pronounced speed differential on the "downstrokes".

Rob 

[choochin3]

I have the Great Train Robbery handcar that runs fine at room temp.,but up in the cold attic it runs jerky.

I think that one of the problems is that the figures are molded as one piece and have to flex to move.

When the figures are warm they flex well,and when they are cold they put more strain on the motor,and don't run all that smooth.

Any of youse guys have a remedy for this? (other than running it downstairs)

 

Carl T.

 

 

 

[riverrailfan]

The handcars need a considerable amount of break-in(like 2-3 hrs worth).  They could use a good dose of synthetic lube, too(oil on the axles, grease on the worm & wheel).

 

Rob 

 

I find it hard that break in on the motor is the cure. I have experience with the motor that they use in the hand car. They used these in slot cars and break in was not a issue in them. They don't use carbon brushes but 2 copper strips that ride on the commutator. I believe that the break in is related to something else. I did notice that the wheels are saturated in oil. I know that one section of track is insulated and everytime it goes through in one direction it just stops. Possibly the break in is in the wheels as they are less conductive do to the oiling of the wheels. I would like the PE hand car to crawl alittle as the little elves are doing hand stands on the hand bar at the speed you need to run it to keep it going.

[Buckeye Riveter]

The handcars need a considerable amount of break-in(like 2-3 hrs worth).  They could use a good dose of synthetic lube, too(oil on the axles, grease on the worm & wheel).

Rob 

I have K-Line and Lionel hand cars and the break-in is vital.  Don't expect them to crawl through a switch.

[pbjwilson]

Also make sure the track is clean as well as the pick-ups on the handcar. I have several handcars and all run well. But they do hesitate on dirty track. And the wheels need to be clean as well.

[ADCX Rob]

The handcars need a considerable amount of break-in(like 2-3 hrs worth).  They could use a good dose of synthetic lube, too(oil on the axles, grease on the worm & wheel).

 

Rob 

[jimhaleyscomet]

My hand car is also finicky.  I think sometimes the bottom of the car bottoms out (and stalls) on the center track.

 

Jim H 

[riverrailfan]

Is it just me or are hand cars that finicky to run. I have a hobo hand car and I just picked up the PE hand car. You have to run them at full power to just get them around the whole layout with out stalling and at that they are jerky. It is pretty simple. They use a Plafit slotcar motor with a rectifier. Even K-lines are built  this way.