If the green light goes out and you have a red light on then look for "short" or something metal accross the tracks (including an off the track car). Is there a little white light on the terminal switch that lights up when you lift the throttle?
If there is no light on, you hear a fan, and your terminal track light does not light whn you lift the throttle you probably have a bad transformer or it has somehow messed up its programing. See Lionel.com or call 586-949-4100 for assistance. Lionel.com under Customer service has a manual for just the transformer which might help. If you purchased it at a Dealer they should be able to help you. Otherwise return it for a replacement where you purchased it.
Others will be along to help you better than I can.
Jim H
mrw2396 wrote:When I plug in the transfomer and can 'here power' (if that makes sense) to it but the green light does not light up. When I power up nothing happens. I checked the tracked and everything is connected. I was working fine but I am not sure what happened. The only thing I can think of is that I pressed the direction button and turned the reverse and smoke swith in some combination that caused this to happen. I checked the manual and re-watched the DVD I received with the set to no avail. I am very new to this so I am probably missing something very obvious. Any help that anyone can provide on this would be greatly appreciated.
Very easy and quick fix, through out the CW-80, and buy a real transformer.
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
Unfortunately, there isn't any red light on a CW-80. When a "short circuit" is encountered, the green light blinks and the transformer automatically reduces power. I don't know whether this power reduction can cause the green light to go all the way off without some damage, such as a blown fuse inside or other mis-adventure. There is still hope -- but not much.
Isolate the transformer from everything else. Unhook all wires that are currently connected to any of the posts.
Plug the transformer into the wall socket. If the green light doesn't come on and burn steadily it's toast, which I'm afraid is likely.
If the green light and the fan (a murmuring sound very much like the fan in your computer) do come on, that would be a good sign. Unplug it again. Forget the locomotive and the track for the moment.
Find a single, simple load such as a yard lamp or an illuminated caboose that is NOT connected to the track, or sitting on the track, etc. If you have an illuminated caboose, for example, connect one lead from Post A to a pick-up roller. Use an alligator clip or something, and make certain nothing is touching the frame of the caboose. Run a second wire from post U-under-A to an axle or other suitable "ground" on the chassis. Pull the throttle handle all the way down to zero. Plug the transformer into the wall socket. The green light should come on again. If so, lift the throttle handle to about the mid-point of it's travel. The light in the caboose should come on, and the green light should glow steadily. Don't do anything involving either the locomotive or the track at this point; and absolutely do NOT connect the two U posts together electrically.
Report back what has happened. If the above steps failed, follow the advice of jimhaleyscomet, but do let us know -- please.
Jim covered things pretty well. Check for wheels that are off the track. That one gets me all the time. I think something is really messed up and then I see a car with the wheels just slightly ascue. Also a stray screw or wire connecting between the rails.
RR Redneck- The kind of response that is typical from you, very disrespectful.
RR Redneck wrote: mrw2396 wrote:When I plug in the transfomer and can 'here power' (if that makes sense) to it but the green light does not light up. When I power up nothing happens. I checked the tracked and everything is connected. I was working fine but I am not sure what happened. The only thing I can think of is that I pressed the direction button and turned the reverse and smoke swith in some combination that caused this to happen. I checked the manual and re-watched the DVD I received with the set to no avail. I am very new to this so I am probably missing something very obvious. Any help that anyone can provide on this would be greatly appreciated.Very easy and quick fix, through out the CW-80, and buy a real transformer.
MRW to the forum !! Please disreguard posts like the above one. You'll find some very good & informative help here !! Keep us posted on your progress !!
Thanks, John
mrw2396 reported:
............................................................................................................
"I unhooked it from the tracks and plugded it in. I got the murmuring sound but nothing else - same as it did when hooked up to the tracks. The train set is brand new - probably has not run for more than 30 minutes in total. I only have a 'Ready to run' train set. I do not have any accessories or anything like that. I guess it could have been defective. Actually I was never able to get the reverse operation to run even though I followed what the manual said. "..........................................................................................................
Sorry, that is not good news. There have been quite a few "issues" with the CW-80. One of them involves the reversing mechanism where, to get it to work properly, the CW seems to need a small load on the transformer at all times. Generally an illuminated passenger car or caboose will do the trick. That said, it sounds like you have a much bigger problem.
I think you should take both the transformer and the locomotive back to the dealer. Lionel has supplied their dealers with spare transformers for just such instances as this. Be sure you have your receipt, and that it has been less then one year since you bought the set from an authorized Lionel dealer.
Under these circumstances, the dealer will likely replace it -- generally with no further questions asked. (As far as I know, there are no authorized places to get a CW serviced. They either replace it, or you're out of luck. ) If the above conditions are met, I think your dealer will replace it on the spot, or at least authorize Lionel to ship you a new one.
Before you leave the store, ask the dealer to put your engine on his track and check it out too. It sounds as if there is (or was) a "short circuit" somewhere. Taking the loco off the track may have cleared it up, but it could be something internal to the engine, such as a loose wire or bad switch.
When you come back to the forum (after talking to the dealer) please provide the name of the set you are using, it's product number, the number on the locomotive, and the four-digit number on the bottom of the replacement transformer. (It is of the form 0806, signifying that the transformer was manufactured August '06, or whenever. More recent dates tend to be better.) Are you using FasTrack, or something else? If FasTrack, be sure you have the appropriate illuminated terminal piece. (Your dealer will know more about this than I do, because I have no experience with FasTrack.)
Meanwhile, make certain that you have a full copy of the 12-page Owner's Manual for the CW-80 and not just whatever came with the set, which may not be as complete. You can read and/or download the manual from Customer Service at www.lionel.com and doing so is a very good idea, although even the manual itself has a couple of problems.
When it is clear that the locomotive is working properly and you have a new transformer in hand, feel free to come back to the forum if you have any questions. Two cautions: never press more than one button at a time; and never attempt to blow the whistle or bell during a "short circuit."
Lionel wants you to be happy, and if you hustle you may be up and running in time for the holidays.
WOLVERINE,
What happened is that you blew the fuse inside the CW transformer. I did this and it is a simple fix but you'll need, I think a 5 amp fuse sold at radio shack, and some shrink wrap. I had to do this once and its not to bad to fix. Check your owners manual it will tell you the fuse you need. I have 5 of the CWs and only had a problem with one, because of hooking up a whistle switch backwards. Hope this helps?
laz57
Thanks, Laz
But I didn't blow the fuse, another member did. I do suspect that the fuse is exactly the problem, although, as I intimated in a post earlier in the thread, I didn't know for sure whether the fan would still run if the fuse was blown. The owner thinks the fan is still running although the green light is off.
That confounded fuse has been the bane of my existence here on the forum. Why Lionel would put a 50 cent fuse BEHIND those infernal anti-tampering screws is totally beyond me. Most folks I know, including some pretty good craftsman, do not have the capability of easily getting inside the case of a CW-80, and I'm not sure I'd recommend it except in "extreme circumstances,"* as it is clear that Lionel doesn't want us in there. I know where to purchase the appropriate screwdriver bit, and also know that some folks have crafted their own, but I haven't done so myself -- yet.
I don't think this is an "extreme circumstance." I have it on impecable authority that the set is only a month old and was purchased from a dealer very convenient to the customer, so I expect the dealer will "make good" on the warranty very promptly.
But thanks anyway. Happy Holidays!
*I define "extreme circumstances" as those in which Lionel refuses to assist the customer, for whatever reason: out of warranty, no receipt, etc., etc.
Good point as to not getting into CW. The dealer should be able to make good on the purchase of a defective product. My train guy always does and he asks NO questions. He takes it back to his supplier and gets me another product or will order one for me. I guess when you trust someone and be a regular good playing customer,they take care of you. Hope your guy is as good as mine?
RR Redneck wrote:Lionel has sent me two to replace one. The first one that came with the set had an internal short, so they sent me another, and it had an internal short. They had to send me another before they shipped one with out an internal short. I STAND BY WHAT I SAY!
How did you determine there was an internal short? What were the symptoms? Did it blow a circuit breaker in the house?
Rob
I took both the loco and the transformer to the local (Lionel Authorized) repair shop, and the locomotive ran and functioned fine, yet when he hooked tested the transformer separate that is when the same thing happened again. That little green light started to flash.
At some point, folks will learn that the CW-80 is the most notoriously unreliable toy train transformer to hit the market in many years. The best solution in my opinion, and despite what some others may feel, is to cut off the power cord; use it for a doorstop or paperweight; and get a more dependable transformer to power your trains. Save yourself the unnecessary grief, hassle, wasted time, and needless expense.
There have been more posts written about problems with the CW-80 than there have been posts written about ANY single other toy train product in recent years. There is no disputing that simple fact, and it seems to me that the message should be getting through by now, except to those many unfortunate folks who bought a starter set and who don't frequent any toy train forums. They'll just have to learn the hard way, I suppose, and the sad thing is that the multitude of problems and potential problems will likely dissuade them from developing any further interest in the hobby.
Allan Miller said "There have been more posts written about problems with the CW-80 than there have been posts written about ANY single other toy train product in recent years" and he may be right about that. In fact, literally dozens of the responses have been written by yours truly -- far too many, I admit.
If anyone actually follows my posts, however, he will notice that I have NEVER advocated that someone looking for a transformer go out and buy a CW-80. Rather, I have addressed my remarks to folks who already have one and have questions or problems. The fact is that many folks have CW-80's and have not had any problems with them -- myself included. I even started a thread (on the other forum, as I recall) to try to get folks whose CW-80's had given good service to speak up. The response was gratifying, especially since one ordinarily sees about 40 complaints for every note of praise with consumer products in general.
I question whether those folks who are constantly comparing the CW-80 to a boat anchor or a doorstop are doing any service to the people who already have one. One member reported that he took one outside and literally used it for target practice! Very mature, don't you think?
Surely such posts provide more heat than light, and the level of civility of the forum declines. So, c'mon now, play nice! In my opinion, that kind of behavior tends to "turn off" people who are new to the forum and/or new to toy trains. Is that our goal?
Wolverine : I couldn't agree with you more ! We now have the CW-80 & our job is help those use them & help them or direct them when & if there's a problem. I just helped a friend who we built a layout for his Grandkids to run their new Pennsy Flyer set on for Christmas. By being informed here of the CW-80s, we were able to make sure it worked now instead of Christmas morning where these two little boys are wanting a train & of course seeing it run. Several of us will continue the fight against those that negatively, for their own egos, comment like they do . It's these starter sets that help get many into the hobby. I hope you keep up informing people & helping !!
"Very easy and quick fix, through out the CW-80, and buy a real transformer."
I agree with Eric's advice (if not his spelling). It's not hard to find a solid, reliable old transformer, like a 1033, and could be a lot less frustrating. It is evident that the CW-80 is a terribly flawed design, both in concept and execution. I see no point in trying to accommodate its shortcomings, unless of course you simply enjoy doing that.
Bob Nelson
Bob (ionelsoni)
I resemble that remark!
But, in semi-seriousness, don't you mean get an old 1033 plus a Sound Activation Button or two?
Of course you're right. For those who are new to this, older locomotives responded to either polarity of DC superimposed on the track to blow the whistle. Newer locomotives blow the whistle with one polarity and ring the bell with the other. So an older transformer, like a 1033, will activate only one of these features and needs a little extra equipment to do the other.
lionelsoni wrote: "Very easy and quick fix, through out the CW-80, and buy a real transformer."I agree with Eric's advice (if not his spelling). It's not hard to find a solid, reliable old transformer, like a 1033, and could be a lot less frustrating. It is evident that the CW-80 is a terribly flawed design, both in concept and execution. I see no point in trying to accommodate its shortcomings, unless of course you simply enjoy doing that.
Yes! Exactly. All they ever will be, are over-priced pains in the butt.
mrw - looks like it is the smoker switch:if it is this loco:http://www.lionel.com/products/productnavigator/InstructionManuals/78-5102-250.pdf
RR Redneck wrote: lionelsoni wrote: "Very easy and quick fix, through out the CW-80, and buy a real transformer."I agree with Eric's advice (if not his spelling). It's not hard to find a solid, reliable old transformer, like a 1033, and could be a lot less frustrating. It is evident that the CW-80 is a terribly flawed design, both in concept and execution. I see no point in trying to accommodate its shortcomings, unless of course you simply enjoy doing that.Yes! Exactly. All they ever will be, are over-priced pains in the butt.
1688torpedo wrote:... BTW- the Gent who restores my 1688s had a talk with Lionel about the CW-80 & they told him that if anything goes wrong with any of these Transformers to clip the Cord & throw it into the Trash as they were not made to be repaired at all by anyone. Including Lionel,...
Send them to me. I can fix them($8.10 shipping each way is kind of steep, though, to put into one). Otherwise, there is a nice 80VA+ power transformer($20.00+ ea. to purchase elsewhere) inside each one that can be used elsewhere with the trains, 2 of them in parallel will make a nice power supply for a PowerMaster or 1 channel on a ZW, or to power lights or switches. If the triacs are good, they can be used to repair MRC or Troller transformers. There is also a linear taper pot which could be useful. The CW-80 can usually be repaired unless the IC is fried. It's about the only proprietary part on board.
The most common failure involving buttons that stick is very easily remedied with a minor adjustment. It's amazing how many of these things were chucked for very minor issues.
mrw2396,
Try the following link. It may not be for the specific loco that you received today, but I think it is close enough. On p. 3 it shows the bottom of a 4-4-2 loco with only one switch. If it looks like yours, read the text about the operation of the reversing unit and it's cut-out switch. I think (but do not know for certain) that your new loco has a reversing-unit cutout switch, but no smoke unit cut-off switch.
Note: I couldn't get the confounded link to the manual to "click". Instead, go to www.lionel.com and click Customer Service and then Owner's Manuals. Call up manual 70-8616-250. Let me know if this doesn't work.
Except for special purposes, most operators do not lock out the reversing unit. If you do, the loco will be locked in whatever direction, that it was in when the switch wes flipped. Find the position where the loco cycles through forward-neutral*-reverse and leave the switch set there. (I mark the "on" position of switches on my locos with a dab of nail polish.)
Run your train with the loco, tender, and one illuminated car, until you are used to it. There is LOTS more to learn about the CW-80. Ignore the nay-sayers, at least for a while.
Post any new questions or concerns tomorrow, and please report successes too!
* I assume yours has a "neutral" setting.
lionelsoni wrote:"Very easy and quick fix, through out the CW-80, and buy a real transformer."I agree with Eric's advice (if not his spelling). It's not hard to find a solid, reliable old transformer, like a 1033, and could be a lot less frustrating. It is evident that the CW-80 is a terribly flawed design, both in concept and execution. I see no point in trying to accommodate its shortcomings, unless of course you simply enjoy doing that.
Does an old 1033 have a fast acting circuit breaker? Thanks to the advice I have recieved here I added those to my old ZW. Still, for a newbie with a local dealer...a quick trip to the shop should resolve his problem and he can then expect months (if not years) of good performance from the CW-80.
Guys,
My I make a suggestion that our goal is to get a poster's set running. To this end, let's all agree that if someone asks for a transformer recomendation (to purchase) we will never suggest a CW-80. However, if someone has only the one CW-80 they got in a set, then let's not make them feel bad about it by suggesting it's use as a boat anchor. Many of us (like my son) started with exactly that transformer and it works fine once you have a good one and a lighted terminal strip. So let's just suggest they test a set when they recieve it, that they get a new one from the dealer if possible, add that they a lighted car or terminal strip. This will get them running which is our focus.
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