John,
You might give Robert Grossman a call at 216 738-0602. He does not list this item in the catalog I have but it is several years old. Plus he gets parts in at all times. He can be reached via the web at: trainpartsformarx.com but you probably would get quicker results by chatting with him. Try in the evening as he does have a day job I believe. The price on e-bay does not sound too out of line.
Jim
I have a MARX 333, missing front truck.
I found one on eBay for $15.30.
But if you know of any 'hobby orientated' shops I could give business too, I'd do that first.
Merry Christmas !!!!!!!!!!!!
John
The pressure is unbearable!...;-) But thanks, anyway.
Merry Christmas
Bob Nelson
Buckeye Riveter wrote:John, we sure missed the boat, er.....train on that one.
Buckeye : that was fun thinking we had it nailed down, or actually, I thought YOU had it nailed down, but it just goes to show Bob always gets it right !!
Glad he's here on this forum !!
Thanks, John
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
There is a difference between main rods and side rods, which are well defined terms, even though all the rods are on the sides of the locomotive...;-) From this very web site: http://www.trains.com/trn/default.aspx?c=a&id=196
"Once the steam has pushed the piston, a series of linkages - piston rod to main rod, main rod to side rod, side rod to driving wheels - converts the piston's back-and-forth motion to the rotational motion of the wheels."
In Britain, they call the main rods connecting rods and the side rods coupling rods.
wrmcclellan wrote:Frankly, that chip in the wheel is not enough to worry about (unless the entire wheel is cracked?). It will run fine with it in most cases. You could smooth the edges of the chip with some fine sandpaper.
Well, there goes Roy being practical and giving good advice! Unless you really want to remove a wheel for fun, which I have never wanted to do. Scouts are pretty well known for having a touchy forward, neutral, reverse mechanism. You might try rapping the bottom of the motor and then turning it upside down and then operating the reversing switch on the top of the unit. The unit I have will work and engage the mechanism intermittently. Some combination of the above operations may work. Your unit may just be stuck in neutral.
Regards, Roy
wow, thanks for all the help!
To make a long story short, I got this off eBay 'thinking' it was the same as my old Scout. but suprise, I goofed the numbers up. My old scout # 1101 eBay scout #1110 So I got the low-end Scout.
The eBay scout had different truck assmbly which I can't use. that's ok, though, I chock it up to a cheap $17 lesson.
I decided to REALLY make a train set. I've had this since the late 60s, when I got it out of Grama's attic to play with. I also have a MARX 333 and hope to get it all running by Christmas.
I do appreciate the help and also, the warm welcome here.
Bob,
I agree, this is surely the left front wheel of a Scout. And I agree with Lionel; if a locomotive has rods on the side, well they have side rods!
Scouts had main rods but no side rods, although Lionel referred to the main rods as side rods. This is a picture of the left-front wheel, which had no rod attached.
The motor looks like a an old Scout type. That is a roller pickup below the wheel right?. If this were a Marx unit we would be seeing some metal in the offset hole. The side rods were not screwed or bolted into the wheel. There was a metal insert into the offset hole that was swagged over the side ride. You loose that metal and it is new wheel time. Robert Grossmen at trainpartsformarx.com can provide them and also has wheel pullers but I don't think this is Marx. If this is a Scout you might want to do a search for the word scout on the forum and see what you get. Working on this engine which was a low end Lionel product has its challenges. But there are folks here that can help. That and a Lionel Repair Manual. Is there a number on the locomotive cab? That and a manufacturer would help ID this motor.
Welcome aboard.
The punch might do the job, if you can get a screwdriver between the wheel and the axle bearing at the hub to put a little outward axial force on the wheel. Proper use of a puller is to put some tension on the wheel and then tap the center of the puller to drive the axle out, which is not that different from what you were going to try.
You shouldn't have any trouble with quartering when you put the new wheel on, because, if I'm not mistaken that is a Lionel Scout locomotive, not Marx, and has no side rods.
John, see the electrical pickup slide at the bottom and that notch just below the red arrow, those were my clues as to it being a Marx. I can barely see teeth behind the wheel, too. I'm pretty certain it is a Marx, circa 1950-1955. It is missing a drive rod or two.
Look at the drivers on my old Marx and the one John posted.
John : Yep, 3 Johns & A Buckeye so far !!
Buckeye : I think I can see just a couple of teeth on the inside of that wheel ! I think it's a Marx also, maybe that puller won't work ?
autocad, to the forum. Sorry but I don't know the answer to your question, but since I had the thread open I thought I would welcome you.
Lots of postwar guys on here will be able to help you.
No, you need a regular wheel puller to remove that wheel with. I'll try to find you a site that has them.
to the forum also !!
*Here is a link to a puller. Very nice place to deal with, also.
http://www.ttender.com/partphotos/
http://www.ttender.com/partphotos/Tools/Stan-Puller2.jpg
See the red arrow, I just did that. I do have an extra wheel. Anyway, this was my uncles and dates from ?. does not run, so I thought I'd take it apart. Shold I use a small punch at the yellow arrow?
Thanks
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