LIONEL FAST TRACK

[lionelsoni]

Roy's advice is good.  This is very similar to the way I handle the problem with tubular track, using the normal track pins, however.

A few pointers:

Provide support for the bridge independent of the rails.

I bend the last few inches of rail on the bridge downward slightly so that, when the bridge is in place, they put a little weight on the stationary track pins.  I haven't had any problem with continuity using this method.  You would probably have to remove some of the plastic under those last few inches to be able to flex the rails.

Make the rail joint at least 3/4 inch back from the opening, not right at the edge, so that the pins do not protrude into the passageway to snag your clothing.

As for cutting track in general, I would avoid the temptation simply to cut off the excess from one end of a piece.  Instead, cut it out of the middle and splice the ends back together, to preserve the standard connections at both ends.

Instead of trying to make a very short piece, make two pieces that are slightly more than half length, so that their combined length is equal to the short piece you thought you needed plus a full piece.

[CNJ ELVIS]

Hi Roy and thanks, I'll try it and see if it works.  Rich

[wrmcclellan]

CNJ Elvis,

Good question. I am not aware of anything.

I have some suggestions for the lift part having worked with this track extensively over the past year. This will require some experimenting and possibly the sacrifice of a piece or two.

Get some brass rod (nickle silver would be better but I have not seen it at any hobby shops myself) that is a similar diameter of the inner radius of the tinplate rails. What you are going to do is make three track "pins" ala old style tubular track.

Cleanly cut a piece of Fastrack to start your mating sections. Cut evenly between two of the folding tabs on the underside of a straight piece. Now carefully solder the brass pins into one side of this cut piece so they stick out similar in length to tubular track pins on all three rails.

This is the hard part. Remove the rails from the other side which will be the receptor side. You need to cut and file the plastic ballast so you can lift and reset this piece onto the brass pins. In other words, you will have three slots in line with the channels that suport the tinplate rails. Note that the rails are an inverted "U". Now replace the rails and you should have a piece that can lift on and off and the 3 "pins" provide the alignment.

Electrical continuity will not be good with this arrangement, so you may need a plug and socket to ensure a good electrical connection across the gap.

Cutting a piece of Fastrack is not easy. I use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel (or a razor saw) to cut the rails. Then I cut the plastic ballast. To get good at this may be where you loose a piece or two. I fabricated a wood block on my table saw with three slots in it to put over the rails to prevent the razor saw from "fraying" the tinplate rails too badly. The block also helps me keep things square.

The brass "pins" can also be used to create longer sections by soldering cut sestions together. Solder flows very well on clean Fastrack.

[CNJ ELVIS]

I need to know if there is a book or someone who can tell me how to make a lift-out section using fast track and how to mate it to lift bridges and the like, also how to make custom lengths. Thanks