It would be very difficult. There are two problems: One is that, for the axle to retain the magnetization, it needs to be made of soft iron, which would not wear well. The 1949 622 switcher was the first magnetraction locomotive. It had hard iron axles, which demagnetized easily. Lionel didn't even bother to advertize its magnetraction.
Later magnetraction used (non-magnetic) stainless-steel axles and separate magnets, either between the wheels or inside the (enlarged) axles. Any magnetraction motor and truck have to be built without any iron or (non-stainless) steel bridging the wheels, to avoid shorting out the magnetic field. If there is an alternate magnetic path between the wheels other than the rails, the magnetic flux will follow that and greatly reduce the magnetraction effect.
About the only practical way to add magnetraction would be to find a locomotive that was built both ways, perhaps the 200-series Alcos, and add magnetraction axles. You can also swap entire motors or power trucks, of course. I put a 2037 motor in my 2-6-4 2026 when its bearings wore out.
Bob Nelson
Actually, there is a MUCH more pratical way to magnetize ANY loco. Chuck mentioned it a while back....get a samarium cobalt or some other powerful magnet and install it in the floor of the loco (or epoxy it UNDER the loco's frame). If you are running non-magnetic track (I am), then put a thin sheet of steel UNDER the track in the areas you want to be magnetized. PRESTO!!! Magnetraction
This is what I plan on doing with my Williams locos.
Dep
Virginian Railroad
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