Another "problem" that I discovered with my BEEPs going through switches is that because the loco is so light, when it transitions through the plastic guides, the opposite wheels may momentarily loose contact with the opposite outside rail causing loss of ground. Two fixes have worked for me -- adding some weight to the loco or adding a small shim under the offending switch. Both keep the opposite wheels firmly connected to the ground rail.
Poppyl
I Love my little ACL Beep. It did come to a halt trying to cross my Atlas #7 switches. I added an extra roller pickup out at one end and that fixed the issue. I also added ElectricRR's sound upgrade. So I like it that much more now.
Bobby
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
otftch wrote: On a whim, I e-mailed RMt about the possibility of a Santa-Fe Beep this morning.This afternoon I recieved an e-mail from him saying there is a non-cataloged SF Beep (blue).I e-mailed back for the price and he answered again in minutes.There is one now coming home.All train dealers/manufacturers should work like that. Ed
On a whim, I e-mailed RMt about the possibility of a Santa-Fe Beep this morning.This afternoon I recieved an e-mail from him saying there is a non-cataloged SF Beep (blue).I e-mailed back for the price and he answered again in minutes.There is one now coming home.All train dealers/manufacturers should work like that.
Ed
I agree that Walter is the Man he is the up and coming Gilbert of this Generation.Good looking trains at a reasonable price and great service.
Traindaddy1;
MU stands for multiple unit. Toy trainers like to use the term "lashup" but the technically correct term for using several locos together is "consist" or "MU". I MU two, three or sometimes, four BEEPs on the headend of a train. That way, if one loco loses contact through a switch or diamond, the others keep things going. It also looks neat to see a couple or more BEEPs working together to haul a long (15 car) coal drag. More like the real world, too.
The loss of continuity through a particular switch can be caused by two factors -- both pickups on non-electricified parts of the switch at the same time (the short wheelbase) or a pickup pushed up, hitting the truck frame and shorting (unevenness across the switch which I think may be the more prevalent situation). The fix for the second problem is simple. Flip the BEEP over and notice where the rollers hit the truck frames when pushed back. Place a piece of electrical tape in that area and that will be the end of that problem.
The BEEPS work great in conventional and upgrading them with TMCC and sound is a "do it yourself" job requiring a small screwdriver.
If you have any questions once you get your BEEP, don't hesitate to ask.
After reading all your posts, I have ordered one. I'll be sure to let you know my opinion. Here's wishing all of you a very Happy Thanksgiving. PS. Keep the troops in your thoughts..".Been there, done that!"
Don
I love my BEEPs so this is not a complaint but just so you aren't "disappointed" after you buy one, their short wheelbase can result in loss of electrical contact going through some switches and across some diamonds. There are a couple of solutions if you run into this situation. For me, the answer was to MU my BEEPS on the front end and/or add a pusher BEEP at the rear. Also, you will notice that the BEEPs operate long hood forward. The body pops off easily so that you can run short hood forward if you would rather do that. Their low gearing assures that you can turn the power up and they won't shoot off the track. That makes them a great loco for kids to play with.
Bob Keller
Here is the RMT web page with all their BEEPS, BEEFS and PEEPS.
http://readymadetoys.stores.yahoo.net/index.html
Someday a Bethlehem Steel BEEP or two is on my list.
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
They look alright with the 027 stuff and are greared so they do not fly off the track and pretty good pullers for their size. If you are in to TMCC there is board and even a sound upgrade available. I plan on getting a B&O Beep Buddy and a BEEF a and b unit peeps and a caboose.
The beep has been produced by Kusan? Williams, Taylor made trucks and now RMT. Those who get one end up buying more.
Well, I guess I have been living in a Lionel-MTH-Marx-Williams world and never explored other manufacturers. What I was trying to find out if, because of their lesser prices, would they work just as well (or look OK) with Lionel stuff and would they hold up as well as the more expensive Lionel.
I am, as you probably know by now, a "play with the trains guy" and not into detailing anymore.
Thanks, again.
Beep stands for baby geep being that it is about half the length of a geep model. I have two a Cheesie and a Conrail these are about $10 less than the rest of the roadnames if there are any left,
go to http://www.readymadetoys.com to see all the many road names available aqlso check out thier Buddy(Bud rdc ) and Beef loosely based on a F unit Walter makes some cool stuff for those with small layouts and tight cruves. there are a couple threads on OGR forum.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month