Locomotive Wheels

[scottso]

My second post, since you guys seem to have the answers!

My fathers old standard scale 402 locomotive wheels (replaced once ions ago I think) are slipping on the axle shaft.  Since the drive wheel on one side turns the entire axle I am only getting half traction.  They appear to be a press fit - which, while not sloppy is just not tight enough to press.

My idea is to try to grind a small flat on the shaft and drill and tap a set screw.  Before I do, I'm questioning whether anyone else has tackled this before.

Thanks for any info.

[lionelsoni]

That might work.  You could also consider upsetting the end of the axle just a little.  That has worked for me, but with car wheels, not anything as big as a standard-gauge locomotive.

[pbjwilson]

I had a loose wheel on a Lionel 736 Berkshire. It would make the other wheels bind up and the loco wouldnt operate. I put a drop of super glue on the axle and let it set overnight. Did the trick. And its been running fine for ten years without a problem.

[1688torpedo]

Hello Scott!    Prewar Engines in both O & Standard Gauge made before 1937 did not have serrated ends on the axles which hold the Wheels on real tight & this sounds like your situation here.What you may want to do is try Reproduction Axles with serrated ends as they will hold the wheels on real tight that they will no longer be loose at all. Try Model Engineering Works or Joseph l.Mania's Website as both of them could help you out with either new axles or maybe they can serrate your old ones & mount the wheels back on. Hope this helps. Take Care.

[scottso]

I had a loose wheel on a Lionel 736 Berkshire. It would make the other wheels bind up and the loco wouldnt operate. I put a drop of super glue on the axle and let it set overnight. Did the trick. And its been running fine for ten years without a problem.

Must say that surprises me.  I thought the only thing super glue was good for was bonding skin.  I had thought about a little JB Weld, but considering the machined finish on the axle, and the weight and torque on these wheels - I just don't think there is anything substantial to bond to.

[lionelsoni]

Keith, don't you mean "splined", not "serrated"?

[1688torpedo]

Hi Bob- Yes, Splined works also. Have heard the term serrated used in reference to the splines as well Take Care.

[scottso]

Man, that Model Engineering Works website is great.  If I am reading it correctly wheels, axles, and a whole bunch of little accessory stuff if only a few bucks a pop?  I haven't had these trains out of the attic in 15 years - and I figured (short of ebay), this stuff would be mega dollars.

[RR Redneck]

No stuff.

[scottso]

No stuff.

 

???

What does that mean?

[ADCX Rob]

I had a loose wheel on a Lionel 736 Berkshire. It would make the other wheels bind up and the loco wouldnt operate. I put a drop of super glue on the axle and let it set overnight. Did the trick. And its been running fine for ten years without a problem.

I second the super glue.  If it's really loose, try the super glue gel.  I've had excellent results w/ both on the loose wheel-to-axle situation, you just need enough of some material to take up the slack, & CA glues fit the bill.  Clean the parts well, I use alcohol, Q-tips, & canned/compressed air.  The non-gel glue wicks in to the joint quite well by capillary action.

Some folks will score and/or make marks in the axle(with diagonal cutters, eg.) to raise the surface some for a better interference fit, this works even better with a drop of super glue.

Rob

[CSXect]

Hi Bob- Yes, Splined works also. Have heard the term serrated used in reference to the splines as well Take Care.

 

If we are going to be picky about words the original post should have said Eons not ions

[thor]

I drew a complete blank searching for that Model Engineering website, could someone please supply the link?  That is if, as I hope, they supply O gauge engine wheels of different diameters because I want some bigger drivers for my Atlantic and I havent had any luck finding a supplier of such. Thanks.

[scottso]

Here is the link:

http://www.geocities.com/modelengineeringworks/

Thanks for the suggestions on the wheels guys.  Just FYI - I did drill and tap two wheels last night for an 8-32 set screw - it seems to have worked great.  Not only that - if (when?) I need to disassemble the motor its easy to pull and reinstall wheels.

By the way - does anyone know what the "No Stuff" post from above actually means?

[lionelsoni]

I'm trying to imagine how you got the drill and tap close enough to the wheel to do the job.  Does the hub protrude that much?  Or did you go in at an angle?

[scottso]

One was a drive wheel with the gear - on that one the hub is large enough (barely!) to tap straight down between the gear and the wheel - then get the allen wrench between to tighten.

The other was a driven wheel - that one had to be tapped on the outside because the hub is marginally larger outside than inside.  I did drill at a slight angle for that one.  But it is easily accessible for the allen wrench - and the screw provides plenty of bite even at the angle.

And regarding your prior post - based upon the minor deformity I saw, it seems the wheel/axle had been "upset" the past - but on the locations I tapped - it had not held over time.