ABRASIVE ACME PADS KICK DIRTS BUTT!!!!!
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
Time to get scrubbing! Thanks every one for your suggestions!
I use denatured alcohol and a rag. Good ole elbow grease. I do also have a Trackman 2000 found at
www.trackman2000.com
Works good when I feel lazy, just hook it up to a train and pull it around. Its alittle pricy at $92.
laz57
I am not that good on 027 switches but I know of one Lionel switch to stay away from # 6-23010 & 6-23011, nothing but trouble for me and Lionel refuses to answer any email on these switches. Williams Trains says not to use these switches as they have a major design flaw in them.
Lee F.
I have not yet made any switches yet, but I intend to give it a shot. With that in mind, I saved the website and links from an earlier forum that may help you answer your switch questions. Click on the link below for the article and link to "Switch Building Manuals".
http://www.tcamembers.org/articles/operating/marxsw/index.html
Ok thanks...a big X on the paint. I have no experiance laying track but it sounds like it would be something I could get into (maybe) as I like to be more involved in things (or as i call it 'rigging it up:) ). I am using tubular o-27 with the over sized curves (54" I think) with some of the real tight curve also. I like the idea of making switches and cross overs for the simple reason of being able to make something that fits my need exactly but another big reason COULD BE cost. It's crazy to me to think of how many switches I would need to make a layout that I'd like and how much each one cost's. I'm afraid to buy from e-bay because I'd just wind up with some that have too tight a curve for my large loco or get some junk that don't work. But if it's a pain to make them then I might just have to shell out and do a lot more asking until I think I clear on how to pick the good from the bad via discriptions on ebay or other wise. I just don't want to be the annoying guy asking the questions to what should be easy or known.
Thanks
Rub it with a Scotch Brite pad; anything more abrasive may take off the tin plating. Only the top of the rails needs to be clean unless you just want it to look cleaner. Some prefer grungy to shiny as more prototypical.
Bob Nelson
Some mentioned using denatured alcohol and an old rag to clean the track. As for painting the center rail DON"T DO IT!!! The paint will not stick and comes off every time a train passes over it.
Are you into laying your own rails? If you don't have experiance with track laying stay away from making your own switches as it will be your worst night-mere unless experianced in track laying already. For track laying you will need a track gauge and a staple gun or something similar to nail down the track.
If it was me, I would buy my switches already made and ready to run.
Are you looking for any certain type of track or switches? Examples; Fastrac(Lionel), tubular- 027 & O gauge(Lionel, MTH, Williams), GarGraves, Atlas track, Realtrack(MTH).
If this is confusing to you email me.
Hello, another question from the "question box" (something my grandmother use to call me) :) My first question is what is the best way to clean a lot of dirty track. I have a lot of older track that I have collected but it it pretty dirty. I used it with some brand new track and it is bad enough that after running for only a few minutes the new track with have a layer of black along the top of the rails. There is enough that if I touch the track it leave a dark black line on my skin. What's the best way to ride myself of this stuff and how long does it take to come back.
My next question is what is the best way to color the center rail black. What will last and not rub off or cause problems with the pick up rollers?
My last question, for now ;), is in regard to a post here talking about or mentioning making your own switches. As anyone here tried this yet? How easy or hard would it be for someone with basic mechanical skill to do this and is there any savings to just buying switches?
Thanks!!!
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