Back to your grinding issue. Since your sound apparently only occurs on curves, I would look for three possible causes -- body rubbing against the frame (probably the side of the body to the inside of the curve); inadequately lubricated gears; or misaligned gears. Flip the loco over and look for rub marks on the body or frame. If you find something, put some electrical tape on the area and you should be fine. While the loco is flipped check the gears to make sure they are properly aligned to mesh and that they do not wobble. If they are not aligned or are loose, the loco needs to go in for repair. You might also check the wheels and axles to make sure that the side-to-side play is not so much that they could be rubbing something. Short term fix for that is also electrical tape. Finally, make sure that the drive gears are sufficiently lubricated. Dry gears will make a grinding noise even when they are meshing properly. Your local hobby shop should sell light lubricating oil. A couple of drops on each gear will do the trick. Don't overdo the oil as it is a magnet for dirt and other debris that over time will increase the wear on your gears. I like to re-lube after 15 hours of runtime or if the loco has been sitting for a few weeks.
Hope this helps you.
Poppyl
Fuses are harmless; but they don't protect the modern locomotive directly from the voltage spikes that might kill it. Instead, they may blow and disconnect the transformer before a short circuit can open and create a spike from the output inductance of the transformer. Or they may not. A more direct protection is a transient voltage suppressor (TVS) across the track or across the innards of the locomotive. It should be bidirectional and rated for a little over 140 percent of the highest RMS track voltage.
Bob Nelson
Thanks for the heads up. I'm looking on ebay to try my luck at getting a good deal. I busted the bank buying my new train (command loco and scale cars to go with it!). Where do i get the fast acting fuses? I have used in-line fuses many times working on auto electrical. Same idea right? Thanks again
willy 1094,
If you are looking for a good power supply try a post war ZW or KW, the ZW is a four train transformer and is good for future expansion of your layout, the KW is a two train transformer and has constant voltage output posts on the backside. The only thing is if you are running newer stuff you will need to use fast acting fuses in line after the output posts on the older transformers, fine for older stuff as is.
Lee F.
Hello,
Well, I got down to the 4 screws holding the truck to a plate and they were very tight, they did not budge. I guess these are what you meant. Other than that the truck assembly floats on two posts with springs. I put the body back on and made sure all the tabs grabbed tight. Long story short, there is no more noise so far. Not sure what I did or if it will just start back up. Kurt what you said could be it. I'm just using an old transformer I got with my first estate sale set. I't blue with two post (40 or 50 watts?) and this engine pulls the power. Lights stay dim. I'm trying to find a good used power supply for now around the 90 watt range. I'm just tinkering for now until I can get enough together for a layout.
Thanks for your replies!
Robert
Also, check your track connections. I had some voltage loss in the curves, and it did strange things as well.
Kurt
Thanks a lot. I'll try checking that out. I'll let you know what if find! Thanks again!
Hello all,
I noticed today that one of my engines is making a grinding noise as it goes around curves. It seems like it is comming from the back truck. This engine is a new standard o diesel and I'm using o54 curves. Is this anything to worry about or just a noise it's going to make. It does seem like the train slows down more the louder the noise it. An added note would be that it does not always make the noise. But once it gets going, it keeps going.
Thanks for all the help!
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