Slight slow down with brass strips for Acc. activation

[phillyreading]

I am not a fan of copper tape as it can wear out with time. I prefer the insulated track method on the outside rail, Lionel sells this in O gauge & 027 straight sections, unsure if availbe in Fastrac.                

I use GarGraves track and all rails are insulated from each other so all I need is an insulating pin or two and a power clip.

Lee F.

[riverrailfan]

You can also pickup the copper tape at Hobby Lobby.

[warner brook]

.thanks a lot train brain

roy

[trainbrain]

Roy: The accessory I'm writing about is a Lionel block signal. When wiring this, the middle terminal is for the power to the signal which is a wire from the accessory terminal on my transformer(KW) to this middle terminal on the signal. The other 2 terminals activate the 2 colored lights. 1wire from each of these to 2 separate insulated track or brass strip sections. Not using the middle rail because its constant power and the lights will always stay on. The insulated sections do just that, they insulate the power to the accessory until the wheels go over this insulated section. This is what completes the circuit to activate the signal. When the wheels are off the section, the accessory stops. Hope this helps! Try this with insulated track sections you can make yourself or buy for about $4 each. An article how to make these was recently in CTT. Also, there are books out there about simple wiring which is all you'd need. Not much $ either. See the Kalmbach catalog.

[warner brook]

hi brian

i`am sorry that i`am not able to answer your question, but i have a question why is the tape on the ground rail instead of the middle power rail?i`am lost when it comes to wiring. i would like to try that myself,are there any other applications that come to mind for that type of hookup.

thank you roy

[lionelsoni]

DC ("can") motors have inherently better speed regulation than universal motors, even without cruise-control.  Also, the wheel gauge, wheel diameter, and wheelbase all influence the sensitivity of the locomotive to the track gauge, although the latter two are much less important on straight track.

[chuck]

Adheasive backed copper foil is available at doll house shops and stained glass shops.  Later has foil in various widths (including sheet sized material).  Doll houses use a pair of parallel strips on a clear backing material to make surface mount wiring runs to light up doll houses.

[trainbrain]

I dunno. It doesn't affect the newer engines, just the older ones without traction tires. I'll try more narrow strips for the next accessory.
Thanks,
Brian

[trainbrain]

Where'd you get the copper tape? Seems a lot easier than the strips.
Thanks,
Brian

[lionelsoni]

The fact that you had no problem with insulated track says that it's mechanical, not electrical.  Could your strips be reducing the gauge enough to increase the friction at the flanges?

 

[pbjwilson]

I'm thinking maybe the flywheels on the motors of the newer engines "propel" the engine through that section of track. I'm pretty sure you do lose some power as the accessory is activated. I admit to being electrically challenged so maybe some other forumites will be able to give a better explanation.

I too made this type of activation device using dollhouse electrical tape. I use it for simple activation of accessories on my Christmas layout.

Heres a picture of my test section. The copper tape is on the upper left rail.

Click pic to enlarge.

[trainbrain]

In the Dec 05 CTT page 85, the article is about making an activation device for accessories using brass or tin strips like the old Marx way. I did this and for some unknown reason my older K-line S2 and Lionel RS3 slow down over these strips. Neither has traction tires. My newer Williams, Weaver and Lionel engines just go thru no problem. It didn't happen using insulated track before. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Brian