Comes in 3/16" and 1/4". I'm pretty sure you order it directly; that is how I got mine.
Jim
Those are good questions. I am not sure of the answers. I believe they only sell through mail order because I could not find any dealer listing on their site. That is why I was looking for some feedback on the product. They offer various thicknesses, plus even a sub-road bed product. From their website, the product looks grayish.
Regards,
John O
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
Eric:
http://www.vinylbed.com
It is a sound absorbing material that can be put under track as a road bed base. I am toying with the idea of using it instead of cork or homosote.
Marty,
I've heard of mail order houses that carry many specialty fasteners, and I suspect some can be found, but I don't have a URL at hand. I'll do some checking over the weekend to see if I can scare up the info.
Steve
I believe you are circumventing the problem by using rubber cement. I do not believe a screw, tack or nail will stay tight in the foam board. However, I do like your idea of using an adhesive. I don't know if I like rubber cement, but there may be another adhesive that would make sense for my needs.
Why wouldn't that work? I don't use the product you speak of but I use carpet padding for fastrak. I also have an amount of styro under the padding and track. I can't find #4 screws longer than 1 inch to reach the wood surface so I used the 1 inch screws and just pushed them into the styro (or a small pilot hole could be drilled) after a hole is there I dip the screw in adhesive, in my case I chose rubber cement which is easy to remove (for future re-usage of the track). So far I have not noticed any problems at all. In fact, I just recently built another display layout using screws and because of time I used power equip to drive the screws. (WRONG, you'll have peaks and valleys forever, thus taking more time to get rid of them) The new way I described earlier totally eliminates the peaks and valleys which usually occurs when driving track screws with power tools. If you prefer screws, use pilot holes and hand screw the track so as to not overtighten it. That is if you can find the right size screws.
Thanks for the quick summary, Robert!
My only remaining concern is that the vinylbed would be sitting on top of 2" of foam. As a result, using screws, tacks, or nails, will not be an option. I am hoping to use an adhesive to bond the two materials. Does anyone think that this may be a problem?
Thanks for the feedback. I am leaning toward giving it a try on my layout.
I used the vinylbed on my layout and I would use it again. It conforms to curves very well and made a big difference with sound absorpsion. Easy to install. I found that when attaching it keep the joints under a tie, and as you work into a curve, pull the material and secure it with brads till the adhesive dries. It looks pretty good as is, resembling LARGE ballast. I saw where someone painted it with the faux stone finish paint and that would looks neat. I came back later and used white glue and put in ties between the track rail ties and it holds well.
Terry Thompson had an article in CTT a while back about a layout he built using Vinylbed. He gave it high marks. I believe that is easier to bend into tighter curves than cork and does give good sound absorption. It does cost more than cork, not sure how it compares price-wise to Homabed.You can request a sample from their website. vinylbed.com
Hello All:
Does anyone have experience with this product? Is it easy to use? Does is it provide good sound absorption? If you have not used this product, what would be your suggestion? Homabed? Cork? Foam? Any feedback is appreciated.
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