Wiring switches seperate from track

[lionelsoni]

The Lionel instructions are correct. However, they don't mention a couple of interesting points:

The location of the connections in the switches is not consistent. Sometimes it is very difficult to get at the wires that you need to work on.

When you modify an O27 switch for separate power, you risk damaging a coil if a train stops on the switch. The O31 switches, which are designed for separate power, have a mechanism to disconnect the coil after the switch is thrown; the O27 switches do not; so the anti-derailing feature can energize a coil indefinitely. Lionel was counting on the track voltage's being off if a train was stopped on an O27 switch. That is the point of the discussion above about powering the switch with dc from a capacitor.

Also, it is unnecessary to connect the ground terminal of the switch separately to the transformer, since it is already connected inside the switch to the outside rails, although it does no harm to connect it.

[tschmidt]

I don't have a very complicated layout but I found that wiring my switches to an old 1950 era transformer works great. I ran seperate wiring to the 6 switches and also connected them so that I can run them with my remote command control. I'm able to set the transformer to a set voltage and I get plenty of power to each switch. I don't have to worry about any conflict with my track power.

Tom

[Anonymous]

Go to the Lionel web site at www.lionel.com and then the "For the Hobbyist" section "General Tips and FAQ's". There's an article "The Lionel Command Control System and O27 Switches" that gives step by step instructions. I read this and if I understand, after doing the wiring, I can connect this wire to the hot side of the accessory post on my ZW and run the ground from the ZW to the ground post of the switch--Someone please confirm I am not being stupid.

[Anonymous]

Jam I have reworked my lionel switches the lionel says on the web page they worked fine BUT I bought so more switches for a bigger layout and weny with k-line 0-27 042 with a fixed power supply built in allready and they are nonderailing and donot humm when the cars are parked on them . I love the k-line switches only cost $38 dollars . They have lights in the switches and contorlls too. good luck ozone

[Anonymous]

In "Tips and Tricks for Toy Train Operators," 2ed., by Peter Riddle and published by Kalmbach, ISBN: 0-89778-511-8, he says: "Take off the solenoid housing and locate the wire that connects the solenoid with the middle rail. Solder it to a length of 18-gauge wire, and connect it to a fixed-voltage post of at least 14 volts. Now it will operate reliably under any conditions, just like its big brother, the 022." p. 11. This, under the heading, "Fixed Voltage Wiring for Switches."

[lionelsoni]

Walt,

As Roger has confirmed, the anti-derailing feature does continue to work. The problem is that it works too much. If you park a train on the switch, the coil is energized continuously and will melt the bobbin and burn out. This does not usually happen with the original wiring (which is doubtless why they did it that way), since the voltage that powers the switch usually goes away when the train stops.

However, I can think of two possible exceptions even to that: If you park the train in neutral, perhaps to keep the lights on in the cars, you are going to lose the switch. And there are modern control schemes that put full voltage on the track all the time, whether or not the trains are moving.

If you go to constant switch power, your only choices seem to be:
Be very careful (lots of luck!).
Disable the anti-derailing feature.
Use something like my capacitor lashup to limit the steady-state current.

[Roger Bielen]

Walt,

I just rewired a pair for my granddaughters O27 rug railway per the instructions, (I haven't used Bob's DC powered conversion yet), and the auto function does continue to work.

[waltrapp]

Bob,

Are you suggesting that if I rewire my Lionel O27 switches to use external power for the coils that I will lose the non-derailing feature????

Another question, OK, but it only makes sense to ask IF I RETAIN the non-derailing functionality? Even if I rewire the coils will I continue to have to be careful to NOT park a train on the switch? I know that with 'better' (lionel O22 e.g.) switches that they have some way to 'know' that the switch has been thrown and that it shouldn't try again, and that's why parking trains on them is OK. But it's my understanding that the lack of this 'smarts' in the Lionel O27 switches is what causes all of the chattering.

thanks - walt

[lionelsoni]

I second Roger's comment about leaving stock on the switch. Actually, the plastic core that the solenoid is wired on will melt first. If it is not deformed too badly, you can drill out the hole to straighten it. You can guess how I came to know about this.

I power my O27 switches with DC. I put a 5000 microfarad capacitor between ground (the running rails) and the switch common (extracted according to the instructions above). Then I charge the capacitor through a 100-ohm, 10-watt resistor. My DC supply is simply a single rectifier diode from the accessory voltage. This way I preserve the anti-derailing feature without having to worry about overheating the coils.

[Roger Bielen]

jamtjm:

I did a little checking and found a source for the instructions for converting the O27 switches. Go to the Lionel web site at www.lionel.com and then the "For the Hobbyist" section "General Tips and FAQ's". There's an article "The Lionel Command Control System and O27 Switches" that gives step by step instructions.

Good Luck.

[Roger Bielen]

The O27 style switches are powered from the trackage. To power them separately it is necessary to modify the wiring so that they can be powered directly from the transformer accessory supply. There have been "how to" articles in either, or both, CTTor OGR magazine, or possibly try the Lionel web site. It involves fishing one of the coil wires out and making a separate connection for it.

I'm sure that another forum member more versed in the methode will also respond in a day or two.

Also be careful not to park a car on the powered switch for any length of time it could burn out the selonoid.

[Anonymous]

I was wondering if there is an easy way to wire switches seperate from the track? I am using standard 027 and 042 switches on my layout. I have read several articles about guys wiring their switches seperate for a more snappy switch. How is this possible and keep the voltage the same all the way around the layout?? I am in the process of purchasing a ZW transformer, and will be using LWs for accessories. Thanks.