What Bob says is true, but it does depend on the kinds of trains you are going to run.
First off, many smaller Lionel and K-Line transformers are light on amperage too. They will run your locomotive and a lighted caboose, but not much more. Illuminated cars place excessive strain on these smaller transformers. Also, are the locomotives the lesser expensive modern type with truck mounted DC can motors or the older type (or more expensive newer ones) with the open frame AC "Pullmor" motor? The truck mounted DC can motored type use far less current than does a loco with a "Pullmor" motor.
For a period, many of the lesser expensive locomotives made during the MPC years and into the LTI years did not come with diesel horns, so they are easily run on DC current. And once you hear the horn on some of these locos you may want to disconnect it anyways.
I opted several years ago after some experimenting to run my layout on DC current. Most of my locos are the lesser expensive truck mounted DC can motored type. I have discovered that by removing the circuit board reverse unit and wiring the motors directly to the feeder wires, that these types of locos do run better on DC current. They also use less current too. I like the MRC power packs, but for economic reasons opted to make my own reverse button unit with a full-wave bridge rectifier (similar I suppose to the Lionel 6-5900, no longer made) and use my trusty reliable 1033. With the B-U voltage setting (0-11 volts) I get smooth operation, can make the locos crawl, and can add plenty of illuminated cars while never worrying about a young visitor running the train too fast and off the track. Of course, with the lower voltage efficiency of the locomotive, I have to use lower voltage bulbs in all cars and locos for adequate illumination. Instead of the typical 12-18 volt bulbs I use 5-7 volt bulbs. I also prefer off board sound and for the investment, you simply cannot beat the value of the MRC #312 Sound Station. I think had Lionel come up with that little item instead of MRC, it would be selling like hotcakes.
I also find I am powering more of my layout and using fewer transformers. I use lower voltage bulbs in my buildings, street lights etc. The lower the voltage of the bulb, the more lights you can power with the same transformer, provided you have an adjustable source. A fixed 14 volt post will burn out lower voltage bulbs very quickly if not immediately.
I tried an MRC pulse control power pack and didn't notice too much difference in operation though. Part of this is probably due to the motor/gearing aggrangements. Most HO locos (like some of the better O guage ones) have body mounted DC can motors. Many HO locos have a worm gear drive with the body mounted motor powering all wheels through the gearing.
Now picture the DC can motor truck mounted loco... the motor is in the truck. The truck is mounted to the body through a single pin and C-clip. It is at the point where the truck is mounted to the sheet metal frame where the pressure is. This is the point of friction where the locomotive is being pulled forward. Having dual motors increases pulling power, but 2 DC can motors hardly ever run at the same precise exact speed. Anyways, what I'm saying is that I didn't notice any real improvement in using a pulse powered DC power pack over my rectified 1033, at least with this type of locomotive.
brianel, Agent 027
"Praise the Lord. I may not have everything I desire, but the Lord has come through for what I need."
Bob Nelson
Would a tec three transformer (throdle controler) work for Lionel, and Marx trains? What would be the best way to wire it up? Thank you all.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month