Recommendations for servicing couplers on Post War Trains needed!

[ben10ben]

I generally grind the end off the rivet with a dremel just enough for it to be lifted out. After the repair, I apply a small blob of solder to the end of the rivet, just large enough to hold it in place but not large enough to really be all that noticable. If you need to repair it again, all you have to do is melt the solder and pull the rivet out.

[lionelsoni]

A very common repair is replacement of the knuckle spring.  The method of disassembly recommended by Lionel (http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/mistrk/mistrk3.pdf) will often mark up the coupler, if it gets the pin out at all, and will probably require replacing the pin too.

I support the coupler on a piece of wood and drive the pin out from the bottom with an old ice pick, which is thin enough to follow the pin through the coupler.  I take out the knuckle, then reinsert the pin, putting the new spring onto it.  Then, with the pin almost all the way in, I put the knuckle almost into place, pushing the spring up to its proper place as I press the outside of the knuckle hinge against the pin.  Then I withdraw the pin again, slowly, until it just clears the knuckle hinge but not far enough to allow the new spring to escape.  I slide the knuckle fully into place and push the pin back in, through the knuckle hinge and all the way home.

The riveted end of the pin will usually be almost large enough to keep it in place, but I spread the rivet a little anyway, enough to make the pin secure but not back to the original full flare.  This makes the next repair a little easier.

[jpelosi2002]

Brassuer is the best place (in my opinion) for parts. I buy LOTS of parts and his is always the fastest service and best quality. For the rivets holding the coupler to the truck, you will most likey need a rivet press. I made the investment when I decided I wanted to really get into restoring toy trains. It's been a very good investment, though it is a large sum of money. It pays itself off though after a few major repairs that you wouldn't have been able to do yourself. To get the rivet out, select a drill bit that is a little larger than the rivet head. Drill it carefully till there's almost no head left on the rivet, being carefull not to drill into the truck. When the head is 90% drilled out you can punch the rivet out with your rivet press or use a drift of the correct diameter with a ball peen hammer and tap it out.

If you really want to start repairing trains you will need at least:

1.  good set of smaller size screw drivers

2. wheel puller

3. soldering iron

4. a good set of drifts (punches) and a smaller ballpeen hammer

5. a riveter of some sort. There's a tool called The Brakeman Riveter. I've heard mixed reviews on it.

I went all out and got a full size press with all the anvils, clinchers and wheelcups. I've not regretted it since.

6. Greenberg's Lionel Repair manual. This book in invaluable for repair tips but most importantly the part numbers and wiring schematics.

Good luck.

Jim

 

[wpetrag]

Hello:

In my quest to learn how to repair coil and magnetic couplers on Lionel O Gauge post war trains, I recently purchased Ray L. Plummner's book titled: 'Toy Train Repair Made Easy', which incidently does a very good job of highlighting some of the basic repairs. However, I still have several questions:

1. If I wanted to rebuild an entire coil or magnetic coupler, can someone give me or tell me where I can get a complete list of parts that I would need for both of these coupler types?

2. How can I remove and more importantly, replace the rivet head holding on the trucks?

3. What tools would I need to purchase to make these types of repairs?

4. Where can I get either original or reproduction parts to rebuild these couplers?

 

Thanks in advance for your advise!

 

Looking forward to everyone's reply,

Bill

TCA#: 03-56667