I wish manufacturers wouldn't glue engineers in dummy units. They really ruin an otherwise good looking lashup. These guys are really bonded to the shell. Anybody have a safe way of extricating their little carcasses without distorting the shell? I was thinking of turning a dremel grinding wheel loose on them!
Rich F.
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
I've never seen invisible paint?
Have you tried painting the engineer the same color as the shell? In other words you camoflage him.
Lee
You're not supposed to see invisible paint; so don't assume that your dealer doesn't have it. After all, if it's in stock, they've got it.
By the way, the best brands use a pigment of unobtainium oxide.
Bob Nelson
Like Allan suggests, some operate the dummy A up front. Perhaps it would be best if they made all engineers capable of being removed without too much difficulty. I would like that option. Of course, I like mostly steam and post war, so I have to add my own figures.
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
Since a dummy is just a car masquerading as a locomotive, I generally run dummies first, to minimize the number of cars behind the real locomotive that are available for "stringlining".
Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.
Right--it doesn't help the man-in-the-wrong-place problem; but it means that there is no good place to omit the figures that will satisfy everyone.
Actually, with newer air-conditioned Diesels and coated windows, it is almost impossible to see into the cabs anyway.
Remember the Veterans. Past, present and future.
www.sd3r.org
Proud New Member Of The NRA
I run dummies in themiddle of the lash up due to the electro coupler thing. I could add them I bet. I have added smoke and lights [with off/on switch] to mine. Was easy to do. That way I can run it up front as the lead engine.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
Lionel collector, stuck in an N scaler's modelling space.
Despite all the flippant replies, Rich makes a good point. The manufacturers could save a few cents by simply eliminating cab figures from dummy units
You're kidding us, right?
Allan, Maybe you could share a picture of a lash-up on your layout so we might be able to concur with your opinion. Here is yet another lash-up on my layout. I would be all for having the figures removable rather then not there at all.
(Tom, You're going to have to "click" on the picture to enlarge it.)
In my situation, the dummy units that aren't tethered are non-illuminated and relatively expensive to upgrade for lead engines. I will just go knife route, but only posted to make sure there wasn't some ingenious "magic pill" or plastic safe solvent that only acts on glue. IMHO if manufacturers would either make them removable or include them separately would be nice. With all the attention to detail these days, this one is so basic to be overlooked. Why'd they have to use so much glue (MTH)? Their figures didn't adhere with hot glued in PS1's, but they kinda over compensated with PS2's. I mean these guys are just about molded into the shells!
PS. Thanks to your suggestion Jim, I dropped the invisible paint in my lap and you can guess the rest. Nothing comical about that!
Doug, this is from a recent topic:
Just cycle all but one locomotive into neutral and switch off their e-units. In the neutral position, all the e-unit connections to the motor are open. Then connect tethers among all the locomotives. Three wires are the minimum you need--field and two armature wires. However, a fourth wire to bus the pickups is a good idea; and a fifth for the common wouldn't hurt but is probably overkill unless the locomotives have few wheels.
Trainguyxx wrote:Wait... how could you see invisible paint?
David - I wonder if you have just hit on Chief's secret plan to strow invisible grits across the Nawth? Jaabat - have you noticed an odd texture on the table where you two were working?
Seriously, I've tried to remove a glued on figure from a toy of my son's once and it was a nightmare. I ended up razoring it off and then using some different grits (!) of sandpaper down to 320 or so I think to remove the glue/plastic welding deformity. I think that you could go as high as 600 grit on the sandpaper to make it really glassy smooth.
RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.
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