Need information on reattaching driving wheel

[Anonymous]

I have a driving wheel that came loose from the axle on a Williams N&W J Class engine. I have tried Crazy Glue but it does'nt seem to hold very long. I also have some kind of bind in the driving wheels. I took the motor out but it still has a bind when you try to turn the driving wheels without the worm gear engaged. Don't see anything obvious that is binding unless it could be a bent axle but doubt that. Anyone ever have this problem?

[Anonymous]

I have a driving wheel that came loose from the axle on a Williams N&W J Class engine. I have tried Crazy Glue but it does'nt seem to hold very long. I also have some kind of bind in the driving wheels. I took the motor out but it still has a bind when you try to turn the driving wheels without the worm gear engaged. Don't see anything obvious that is binding unless it could be a bent axle but doubt that. Anyone ever have this problem?

[Anonymous]

Go to an industrial supply store and get some Loctite 660 retaining coumpound (gray tube). Clean all cyanoacrilate and oil residue from the axle and wheel bore. Place an even coat of Loctite 660 on the end of the axle, not allowing the Loctite to contaminate the bearing. Place the wheel on the axle, MAKING SURE THAT QUARTERING IS CORRECT. Allow to "set" for 30 min.

This method will repair ALL toy train locomotives of any age or manufacturer with loose wheels including those with Magnetraction

[Anonymous]

Go to an industrial supply store and get some Loctite 660 retaining coumpound (gray tube). Clean all cyanoacrilate and oil residue from the axle and wheel bore. Place an even coat of Loctite 660 on the end of the axle, not allowing the Loctite to contaminate the bearing. Place the wheel on the axle, MAKING SURE THAT QUARTERING IS CORRECT. Allow to "set" for 30 min.

This method will repair ALL toy train locomotives of any age or manufacturer with loose wheels including those with Magnetraction

[tmackinator]

You may want to contact Williams direct for parts.I have found them good to deal with. Personally I would replace the axle and at least the bad driver that came off. If the drivers are not too expensive I would replace both that way you will have a fresh engagement on the splines of the axle. The gear can probably be reused. check the bearings for alignment before you install the axle in the frame. These bearings could be reamed if necessary to correct the alignment or possibly lightly tapped back into adjustment if they were installed incorrectly originally.A slight bend in the axle can cause a bind. It sounds as if something was wrong from the start if the driver just came off on its own. When installing gears drivers etc. on the axles they really should pe pressed on carefully rather than hammered. A smooth jaw vise can usually be used. Work carefully and slowly to be sure any pressed on parts start square to the axle. Good luck. Hope this helps.

[tmackinator]

You may want to contact Williams direct for parts.I have found them good to deal with. Personally I would replace the axle and at least the bad driver that came off. If the drivers are not too expensive I would replace both that way you will have a fresh engagement on the splines of the axle. The gear can probably be reused. check the bearings for alignment before you install the axle in the frame. These bearings could be reamed if necessary to correct the alignment or possibly lightly tapped back into adjustment if they were installed incorrectly originally.A slight bend in the axle can cause a bind. It sounds as if something was wrong from the start if the driver just came off on its own. When installing gears drivers etc. on the axles they really should pe pressed on carefully rather than hammered. A smooth jaw vise can usually be used. Work carefully and slowly to be sure any pressed on parts start square to the axle. Good luck. Hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

Thanks to Johnblair and tmackinator for the information re attaching wheel to axle on Williams N&W J class engine. I have heard of Loctite but did not know where to get it. Since the original message, I have reattached the wheel with Crazy Glue after cleaning the axle and wheel of all grease and residue from glue. It seems to be working this time. The bind was caused by crazy glue contaminating the bearing. I broke that loose and reglued the wheel on. The engine has been run now for about an hour and seems to be holding. If it happens again I will try the Loctite. The axle seems to be straight and the only thing wrong is that the spline on one end does not grip well enough. That's what probably caused the wheel to come off. I had a Precision Scale gearbox and a Pittman motor installed in this engine years ago to improve performance and it worked well for a long time. Maybe the wheel was pulled by the person who did the installation, hence the inherent spline problem. Unfortunately, the person who did the job has passed away so I have no way of knowing now. Thanks again for the good information, Ray

[Anonymous]

Thanks to Johnblair and tmackinator for the information re attaching wheel to axle on Williams N&W J class engine. I have heard of Loctite but did not know where to get it. Since the original message, I have reattached the wheel with Crazy Glue after cleaning the axle and wheel of all grease and residue from glue. It seems to be working this time. The bind was caused by crazy glue contaminating the bearing. I broke that loose and reglued the wheel on. The engine has been run now for about an hour and seems to be holding. If it happens again I will try the Loctite. The axle seems to be straight and the only thing wrong is that the spline on one end does not grip well enough. That's what probably caused the wheel to come off. I had a Precision Scale gearbox and a Pittman motor installed in this engine years ago to improve performance and it worked well for a long time. Maybe the wheel was pulled by the person who did the installation, hence the inherent spline problem. Unfortunately, the person who did the job has passed away so I have no way of knowing now. Thanks again for the good information, Ray

[lionelsoni]

Something else that has worked for me with car wheels is to upset the axle splines a little before pressing the wheel on. This of course risks ruining the whole thing by overdoing it; but, if all else fails and there is nothing else to do, you might try it.

[lionelsoni]

Something else that has worked for me with car wheels is to upset the axle splines a little before pressing the wheel on. This of course risks ruining the whole thing by overdoing it; but, if all else fails and there is nothing else to do, you might try it.

[Anonymous]

Bob:

What do you mean by "upset?" I know how to upset my wife (seems like all I have to do sometimes is breathe), but how do you do it with a spline on an axle?

Tony

[Anonymous]

Bob:

What do you mean by "upset?" I know how to upset my wife (seems like all I have to do sometimes is breathe), but how do you do it with a spline on an axle?

Tony

[rlplionel]

I think what Bob means is to take a diagonal wire cutter and, while holding the cutter parallel to the end of the axle, press the jaws of the cutter firmly on the axle where the wheel fits. By doing this two or three times, the end of the axle is roughed up (upset) enough to better grip the wheel.

Robert

[rlplionel]

I think what Bob means is to take a diagonal wire cutter and, while holding the cutter parallel to the end of the axle, press the jaws of the cutter firmly on the axle where the wheel fits. By doing this two or three times, the end of the axle is roughed up (upset) enough to better grip the wheel.

Robert

[Anonymous]

Ahhhh, I get it.

Thanks!

Tony

[Anonymous]

Ahhhh, I get it.

Thanks!

Tony