Making an access hatch

[MartyE]

In a few weeks I'll have soome time off.  Besides the honeydoo list, I plan on completely un-wiring the layout, adding an access hole and then re-wiring so that I can clean it up.  I'm hoping to re-do my control panel.

The access hatch would need to be about 18" square I geuss so I can get through it...(gets on scale) maybe 24".  I'm hoping to add scenery on top of the cutout.  I'm finding that getting to the center of the layout to clean and maintain is a general pain since adding an additional siding last year.

Any advice to doing this is welcomed.  I plan on framing the hole to add strength.  I also plab on documenting it with photos if I remember.

[dwiemer]

Not sure if I saw it in CTT or Model Railroader, but they did a article on this subject.  They used a residential block of houses and swimming pool as the scenery on the hatch for the access.  I believe the sidewalk and curb were the overlap to the hatch so that it was well hidden from above the layout.  As you mention, frame the opening so that it has the strength.  Not sure if you have one, but a lightbulb mounted under the table makes life a lot easier for getting around.

Dennis

[rha90272]

I have four access hatches in my layout. To the extent possible, I made them hinged, so that wires from lighting, etc. on top of the hatch can be run to the main layout without requiring connectors that can be connected and disconnected. On the other two (which have to be removable), I'm hoping to use thin steel strips carrying the various types of electrical power I need (fixed, variable, ground) on which screw heads in the hatch itself will rest, making the connection when the hatch is in place. If anyone has experience with this type of "connectionless" electrical links between a removable hatch and the main layout, I'd be very interested in your collected wisdom.

[dougdagrump]

 Marty, Don't make to many visits to Primanti Bros or that hatch mite need to be 36x36.

[perry1060]

I made this from foam. It's carved out on the inside and acts as a valley.

 

 

Here's the same hatch placed in the layout.

Standing inside the layout.

 

Standing in the other hatch which I also made of foam. This one is a mountain instead of a valley.

The mountain hatch back in place.

[MartyE]

Wow great pictures.  I think I'm actually getting a nice little kick out of this.  Especially the rewire.  I was in the holiday rush mode when originally wiring.  So this is a needed job.  I figure it will take a good couple weeks with my schedule but it will be done right.

[Roger Bielen]

Marty, the access hatch I have swings down under the layout.  I have two lengths of 1X2 on the under side of the hatch that extend, maybe 12", beyond the hatch, the hinges are mounted on the ends, this allows the hatch to go up almost level into the opening.  I use two slide bolts to hold it in place.  Since it is in the town area sidewalks on the fixed portion of the opening hide the seams.

I also have a mountain that is open in the middle, I call it the volcano.  Its not noticable from normal elevations.

[ChiefEagles]

Wow Perry, great job.  Marty, you'd better go with at 36 X 36.   Jokes aside.  The larger hole will give you the ability to move around more.  That is, if you have the room for a 36 X 36.  

[Brutus]

Great pics Perry!  I'd love to see more of your layout pics - I really like the mountain scenerey!

[lionelsoni]

A good way to get wires to a hinged panel (of any kind) is to run the wire bundle or cable close to and parallel with the hinges across the hinged side of the panel, with one end fastened to the panel and the other to the frame.  This way, the wires twist a little but do not flex much at all as the panel is opened and closed, and last longer as a result.

With more than 3 connections to a removeable hatch, the screw-head scheme will need some sort of resilience in the connections to be reliable.  I would tin whatever metal is used.