Well, there are several options. I'll toss out a few . . .Foam board is a popular choice (the blue or pink insulation in 4x8 sheets). It comes in various thicknesses and does a good job of sound deadening. Can be cut with a serrated blade (messy!) or a hot-wire (quick and easy, but fumes are noxious)Cork roadbed is an oldie but a goodie. Midwest Roadbed makes it in O gauge. Fairly cheap, easy to cut and the edges are beveled. Kind of hard to work around an O-31 or O-27 curve, but it can be done.Celotex or Homosote board - fibrous boards made of compressed paper fibres, comes in 4x8 sheets. Works great, especially in larger areas. Very dusty when cutting.Woodland Scenics makes styrofoam risers to create grades and they also have a foam roadbed system, similar in design to the cork strips. Pretty much a ready-to-go system but may cost more than other methods.
Hello,
Any thoughts on roadbed material?Have started a grid type table, legs and beams are done. Hope to run two trains at same timewith some over and under elevation changes. table is 10' x 6', 40" high. Have room to expand when $ and ambition allow. Will use risers and 1/2" plywood subroad bed to support track.
Kovo
Kovo,
Your interest is the best start. You should do lots of reading and check out this website and the train magazines. I have been doing so for a few years to get all the ideas I want to incorporate into my layout. I begin my benchwork this weekend. While you may not want to wait that long, you should give serious considerations as to what you are really looking for. Some folks want long straight aways that they can get long consists going on and get some speed behind the trains. Some prefere a layout with lots of sidings and businesses to service. Most are probably somewhere in between.
As to elevation changes, you have to keep in mind what your locomotives are capable of. An engine with magnatraction and strong draw bar pulling, can negotiate steep grades, while lighter motive power without magnatraction has a lot less tractive effort. That being said, one of the easiest and best methods of creating scenery these days is to use extruded foam board ontop of your benchwork. This is the insulating foam found in home improvement stores in 4 x 8 sheets usually pink or blue and in thickness from 1/2 to over 2 inches. You can cut and shape this and then cover with plaster gauze and paint. One word of caution, use liquid nails to make the foam stick to the benchwork and to stacks of foam. Make sure you get the type for foam as the other kinds will cause the foam to melt.
Good Luck and keep us informed of your progress.
dennis
TCA#09-63805
Welcome. You may want to try the RR tracks program that allows you to design your layout on the computer first. Also, as suggested, Thor has a good number of layout suggestions as does the Lionel web site. You can adapt these for your purposes. A few ideas, don't make your layout design to where you can't reach a derailed train. If you are using a large table format, have either access holes, or make it so that you can walk on it. Another suggestion would be to go to Kalmbach, the owners of this forum and see the titles they have, such books as benchwork and wiring your layout as well as Tips and Tricks are good sources of information. Another suggestion is for you to visit this forum often and if you have specific questions, do a search as some topics have been discussed to exhaustion and have lots of knowledgeable folks to answer. Lastly, subscribe to either Classic Toy Trains or O Gauge Railroader, or both. You will find lots of ideas as you look through the pages.
Best of luck,
Dennis
Bob Mitchell Gettysburg, PA TCA # 98-47956 LCCA# RM22839
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