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Exploding trucks

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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, August 1, 2006 6:17 PM
Thanks, Keith for the heads up on lead. I'm going to get a book on metal working (I like challenges), and plan to produce a truck with a screw that you can take apart to remove the wheels/axles (without a wheel puller).

I'm going to be looking at a variety of metals that can be melted. Another approach I'm thinking (out loud) is to simple use very thick gauge metal in the dimension of the truck; drilling holes for the axles; drilling holes for the screws; then, casting a facia and gluing that over the bar and adding some small springs. If I could find a way to mass produce these, that would be great; but it's the challenge that's exciting. (this last approach doesn't require melting)

But first, I'm busy this week working on a wooden rail logging railroad controlled by remote control and putting the final touches on my garden RR magazine article. I'll try & give you a call sometime.

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Posted by 1688torpedo on Tuesday, August 1, 2006 4:36 PM
Hello Dave!  Lead would be too soft of a metal to cast Trucks with. You need Zamac to make Diecast Trucks. My Friend Fred who works on my 1688s hates Lead & calls reproduction Parts made with it "JUNK" which is true as Lead would be even more fragile & easily broken if dropped on the floor or a concrete surface. Your best bet would be to buy the ones That Lionel,Atlas, or even K-Line used to make.In short. You would be going to too much trouble & effort with little to show for it if you tried to make your own trucks. With the money you would spend to procure the necessary Materials & such to make trucks, You would probably have spent as much or more than if you bought them. Good Luck & Take Care.
Keith Woodworth........Seat Belts save lives,Please drive safely.
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Posted by chuck on Tuesday, August 1, 2006 10:59 AM
I've used K-Line, Lionel, and Weaver.  Atlas makes them too.  They all run about $7-$8 a truck.  Sometimes you can pick them up at shows for cheaper.
When everything else fails, play dead
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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, August 1, 2006 7:32 AM
Thanks, Jim. They're MTH Railkings. One is a dummy, which is ideal for storing the batteries.

$15 a pair sounds a bit steep (I purchased half my rolling stock for about that price).

I wonder if anyone has ever tried to make their own. Perhaps using a mold and pouring lead into it? I may run some experiments and mass produce my own. I'd love to hear inputs and ideas about doing this!
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Posted by Jumijo on Tuesday, August 1, 2006 7:05 AM
David,

Lionel's die cast trucks sell for @ $15.00 a pair. Not sure about other brands. You might want to look online.

Love your garden RR! I noticed one photo of a train being pulled by Santa Fe F units. What brand are they?

Jim

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, August 1, 2006 6:31 AM
Which die-cast trucks do you think are good buys (price/quality)?
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Posted by wrmcclellan on Monday, July 31, 2006 8:15 PM

Dave,

I always look for junkers of various vintage cars/trucks at shows and the hobby shop so I have a small stock of cheap spare parts.

Regards, Roy

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Posted by chuck on Monday, July 31, 2006 8:05 PM
In most cases the side frames are Delrin, a very tough and slippery plastic that is almost impossible to repair.  Use the wheel sets for gondola loads, pitch the frames and replace them with new ones.  I vote for diecast, they lower the center of gravity and the weight seems to help them track better.
When everything else fails, play dead
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Exploding trucks
Posted by FJ and G on Monday, July 31, 2006 7:51 PM
most of my trains have the cheap plastic trucks frames. I've dropped about 4 or 5 of these and they usually split apart with the wheels and axles separating from the frame.

Has anyone ever had this happen and what do you do? Just glue them backtogether?

Thanks

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