Rain, trains, and a new found respect for keeping it simple

[fwright]

I am considering taking this one step further for the layout.  Use a lightweight but rigid assembly for the table top (possibly a extruded foam and luan sandwhich).

I made a Christmas layout (4ft x 5ft) to serve as layout and tree base.  Wanted it light for a change.  As an experiment, built a frame of 1x3 lumber, then glued 1.5" blue foam inside the frame, flush with the frame bottom.  The latter step was taken in case the foam wasn't strong enough to support the weight of the tree - this way the weight was transferred to the floor.  I then glued 1/4" luaun plywood on top of the foam so the track and accessory screws had something to bite into.  Note that the scale train guys usually put the plywood (if they use plywood) under the foam.  Painted the frame and plywood a Christmas green.  Used pillow stuffing polyfoam for snow.  Modified the track design several times over a 3 year period for different accessories, a trolley, etc.

This benchwork and layout design was far more successful than I ever dreamed.  I could easily carry it and transport the thing myself.  Only difficulty with handling it by myself was in a strong wind.  I expected limited holding of screws because of the thin plywood, but nothing ever fell off or came loose when the layout was stood against the wall in the basement when the layout was not in use.  Loaded the thing in my Explorer (had to ride on its edges on the wheel humps), and set it up at work on top of cabinets in my cube as a Christmas display - it was the hit of the engineering dept.  The layout didn't care where it was supported - under the foam, under the frame.  It just worked and stayed rigid without any sags.  Will definitely use this construction again.

When you start construction of a permanent layout also remember to "look up".  Keep in mind that you may need to access something over the layout at some future data (like a cut off valve). 

Very good advice!

my thoughts, your choices

Fred W

[3railguy]

If it were me, I would protect the carpet by laying treated firring strips down on the concrete slab and lay subfloor over them (1/2" OSB plywood works fine if the firring strips are 12" on center) followed by carpet. Home centers carry an alternative to firring strips and plywood. They are panels that look like egg crates under neath. Either way, water drains to a sump or floor drain without wetting the carpet. It's not a good idea to lay carpet over a basement slab anyway. It gets damp and mildewed.

[Anonymous]

I have a pretty pathetic table set up: two portable card tables with a large board on top and a then a old moldy board that I cleaned up, sanded and painted myself. I plan to eventually get a final set-up and tur nthe "L" into a "U."

[lionelsoni]

My around-the-walls layout is in sections bolted together with back-to-back corner braces under the table.  The PVC-pipe legs come off with a single nut each.  The wiring connects through Molex connectors.  All the detail is in the corner sections--The side sections are straight track, which can be shortened or lengthened to fit other room sizes.

When we moved into our present house, I had the layout fully assembled before we discovered a problem with the floor in the train room.  I was able to get the whole thing stacked on its edges in the adjacent living room in a couple of hours, and back together just as easily after the repairs.

The table is just half-inch (15/32) BC plywood, with steel angles bolted to the bottom, and legs where needed, but strong enough for me (250 pounds) to climb on.

[chuck]

I built an "art" table for the kids when they were younger, framed with 2x4's.  Since it needed to be "moveable", I put the ball style castors on the bottom.  If you use the lockable type you can release the rollers, move the table and then relock.  Worked so well I used the same technique for a couple of shop tables.   For these I seperated the table tops (old formica kitchen table tops) from the frames (tops are attached with L brackets but are not integral structural members).   I am considering taking this one step further for the layout.  Use a lightweight but rigid assembly for the table top (possibly a extruded foam and luan sandwhich).  Still mulling over the location of leveler's, maybe put them on the tops of the "legs"?  Use molex connectors to handle power conncetions and RJ-45's for low voltage and data communications. 

When you start construction of a permanent layout also remember to "look up".  Keep in mind that you may need to access something over the layout at some future data (like a cut off valve). 

[cnw1995]

Glad nothing was damaged. I enjoy reading about different ways to put up a layout - using portable modules (with banana plug wiring); or existing round-the-walls shelves; steel or alumninum framing - (there's interesting things to see in the window section of a big-box store - I saw pre-set framing that looks perfect for a layout element) - or even things like v. tall benchwork (look your trains in the eye and let the kids play underneath) on furniture casters. I appreciate the learning experiences and accomodations to age/space/time/$/physical limitations.  My latest layout - using space only suitable for storage on a raised crawlspace in the basement - incorporated wall-to-wall indoor-outdoor carpet to make it easier on the knees when crawling up there.

[Birds]

We had an interesting experience the other week.

For the first time I have a large(r) basement and my initial thought was to put as much tinplate track in as I could.  The project was proceeding quite nicely and everything was/is still temporary with tables made from doors with legs on them.

On day four of all the rain that passed through the east coast rececntly, we ended up with some water entering our finished basement.

We caught it soon enough, were able to find and correct the problem, and were able clean up the inside so that everything is fine and nothing was damaged.

To clean up the area we had to pull carpeting back.  But there was this large train layout sitting on part of the area!!  Because it was still temporary it was light weight and somewhat moveable.  We were able to get it out of the way and attend to what needed to be done.

This really got me thinking about the size, weight, and physical design of the benchwork, as well as where one locates a layout, and how to move one quickly if there is a need.  I am seeing smaller layouts in a new light.  Since I don't have a permanent bench yet, I am even looking at doing modular benches.

The time required to diconnect the wiring needed to move the layout was the real surprise.  It took time.  I started to think through how to make the wiring "modular" or "smart" using some form of quick disconnects so that power supplies and control panels can be detached quickly and without digging through a rats nest.  Maybe the three wires of each switch could be attached to a type of single three prong plug, or put on a board that mates with the bench work using metal contacts, etc.

I was very impressed with the recent 6x9 layout SpankyBird showed us that was built my their museum for a young railroader.  Two or three of these could even be put together as large modules.  It would also be very easy to put furniture sliders under the legs of these tables if needed.

I am going back over a lot of the posts from those of you who are working with foam benchwork.  And I am thinking, once again, of using steel studs for the bench the framing.

I have come to the conclusion that a "good" layout has to incorpoarte more than just size, scenary, or capturing a certain look.  It should also include smart and innovative benchwork and wiring, appropriate for the needs and hazards of its location.

While water in the basement started this line of reasoning I also began to see that the same type of design could benefit an train layout used in an area one houses guests, etc.

Enjoy,
Chris