Posting pic has gotten really esae. Just open up your photo host and the pic you wish to post. Then place your mouse over the pic and right click to hit copy and go back to the forum and place mouse arrow over the message box and right click and paste.
Here is a pic of the K-line low profile switch
I am a person with a very active inner child. This is why my wife loves me so. Willoughby, Ohio - the home of the CP & E RR. OTTS Founder www.spankybird.shutterfly.com
The Marx switches do have a signal light, which I think is more useful than Lionel's. It is omnidirectional and changes color by an internal spectacle. You see the same color from any direction, that is, from wherever you are around your layout.
I solder the guide rail to the stock rail at the flanges.
You can easily add the anti-derailing feature to a Marx switch with a control rail in the abutting track.
Marx switches come in O27 and O34 curvatures. (12.5 and 15.75-inch radius, respectively)
Bob Nelson
Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.
Trying it again (and again, and again, and *#*!*@@#!! AGAIN!!!!)
Well how about that, it actually does work using Explorer - I normally use Netscape, and this new "improved" format ain't worth a flyin' @#%@$%)# when viewed/used via Netscape.
Anyhow, the Marx O27 switch (27" turnout) doesn't have an indicator lamp:
Only the O34 switch (O27 profile) has one:
Somewhere - maybe on the Marx board - someone described how to wire in a lamp/lamps to indicate how the switch was currently thrown. The white guide rails are what I added to avoid derailments.
Well this stinks, now I'm gonna have to view this Board with Exploder, while most other sites I go to regularly view fine in Netscape.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
Not sure about the Lionel SD60, but I have a Williams SD45 that won't clear a Lionel O27 switch, but will clear the Marx O27. I would venture to say that if the SD60 will take 31" curves/switches, it oughta clear the O34 switches easily. Also, Marx O34 curves are still floating around out there, which I really like - mainline was/will be all O34 and limited O42 curves (whenever I get around to clearing the pile off the reconstructed benchwork).
As far as the indicator, there are a pair of colored filters (green,red) under the cover that slide over the bulb as the switch changes position. Some of my O34 switches are missing one or both of the filters, and one or two with both of the filters don't show the appropriate color very well when lit. My benchwork is 47" high and I don't have much of a problem viewing the lamp, unless there's something blocking it. They aren't overly bright though, so if you have a right large/long layout you might have trouble seeing them - mine was a 12x9 (roughly) U, now down to an 8x11 L. It looks white in the pic because there was no power on at the time - not sure if the flash would've overpowered the lamp color anyway, if the power had been on.
Okay, being something of an 027 expert, I'll offer my observations from experience. Pleas note I'm referring to mostly manual switches here.
On K-Line switches:
The ones given the most preference above are the newer redesigned ones with the low-profile switch housing. These were introduced a couple years ago and will probably prove the most difficult to find. The earlier production K-Line 027 switches do also have a ridiculously large switch box housing (and actually uglier than the Lionel ones), but are very well constructed and I have had few derailment problems with them. I do notice the electric ones can work slugishly in a cold basement layout environment.
On Lionel MPC-era design switches:
The most annoying things with all the 027 turnouts on a small layout, is the large obtrusive size of the switch footprint. The Lionel postwar 1024 is an improvement here, but more to follow. I drill off the metal plate from the bottom of the MPC-type 027 Switch, and then using a hack saw or Dremel, chop down the footprint size of the switch so it resembles the 1024 a little more. I then solder feeder wires to connect the rails and give the electric flow that you lose when you remove the sheet metal bottom. It's a bit of a pain to do the extra work, but I like the extra space and the additional layout possibilities that open up by not having the excessive large switch footprint. I make my own turnout lock mechanism, or control the manual switches by means of a spring and some nylon fishline or a long wooden dowel.
On postwar Lionel switches:
I like the instant ready-made smaller footprint of the 1024. With it's all sheet metal construction, they're pretty rugged. Mine are all used and with a little cleaning, function just fine. Many will have the green/red indicator broke off which is by my guess, next to impossible to fix without drilling loose the turnout lever. These can be also be operated "remote control" by using either fishline or a bicycle brake cable.
The Lionel 1022 is a good choice between the large footprint of the MPC version, but having a very small switch box with a plastic red indicator direction arrow. These are often missing and are available as repros, but kind of pricey considering what you are getting. The 1022 comes with an automatic non-derailing function, in that it shut's off power on the curved side when the switch is in the other direction.
On MARX switches:
I have not had good luck with the all plastic MARX 027 switch when it comes to running modern-era locos... they seem to jump the switch a lot. I've managed to crrect this probelm with other switches or by making modifications to the locomotive, but none seemed to work here.
On the other hand, I do not know the item #, but the older all metal MARX 027 switch - while looking somewhat naked or austere compared to the others is a reliable well made switch. I just haven't figured out how to easily make them operate "remotely" as you turn the "indicator tower" to change direction.
In summary, I find the large footprint size of the switches to be as annoying if not more so, than the oversized switchbox housings. I too have experimented making a smaller box for the Lionel MPC-era switches. But I still find myself inclined to say my favorite is the Lionel MPC-era ones, with the base removed, and the size of the footprint cut-down to literally just the track shape. Again, I'm speaking manual turnouts. Electric ones would mean modification somehow using the Lionel solenoid... maybe mounting it underneath the train board surface.... I'm sure that could be done.
brianel, Agent 027
"Praise the Lord. I may not have everything I desire, but the Lord has come through for what I need."
ben10ben wrote:The K-line switches are supposed to be really good if you can find any.
These are what im using as of now. I have two #22 switches but they are o gauge and im using 027. But i am trying to keep my wiring simple. So im using these manula switches along with 4 brown lionel manual switches
these are marx 027 switches and so far work well.
Hey I updated that link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=019&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=290132667521&rd=1&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
does the green and red button illuminate on this remote on the link above?
zeke - your photo doesnt work for me
i fixed the picture for you. sorry about that.
i am ok with using manual switches ...for right now. I havent figured this wiring thing out. Ok i havent bought a book yet, been too busy buying trains and rolling stock.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month