Nuther' Left handed-off speed question

[Fred Bear]

I used heat shrink tubing on the rails, but I think Dennis suggested a bike inner tube, and that did the trick nicely, cheap too, and home spun as well! Jake

[BR60103]

Fred: can you get heat shrink tubing large enough to go around the drivers?

[Fred Bear]

Something magical about shooting with a recurve/longbow and wooden arrows! Jake

[eZAK]

Mr. legendary hunter,

I have used electrical tape, Scotch 33 plus, on an outside rail with great results.
Easy to apply, just peal and stick, can also be trimmed to cover just the rail head.

"Keep an eye on that mystical flight of the arrow."

'TNUSA'

[Fred Bear]

Thanks for the reply on the bike inner tube, much appreciated. Dennis, what kind of longbow? I just sold a Bear longbow, 1949 model, 43#'s good shooter, but I"m overloaded with archery stuff at this point, but still buying more!!!!!!!! Thanks, Jake

[jpelosi2002]

What has worked GREAT for me is this. Go buy a bicycle inner tube that is used on those fancy road racing bikes. You know, the ones with the very skinney tires. Cut a cross section of the tube out, about a half inch long. Stretch it over your rear drive wheel and trim all the excess off with a sharp razor. You can add very thin CA glue to help keep it on the wheel. I usually don't as the tire stays on very well. I also usually like to do both rear wheels for even more traction. It's cheap, as you can do a few dozen locos with one tube. I also have a very sharp rise on my small layout and this trick has worked wonders for all my smaller steam locos.

[dwiemer]

I shoot a custome made long bow. Just something about the traditional method.
Dennis

[Fred Bear]

I shoot only the recurves made at the Grayling, Mich plant, or the Detroit plant. Thanks for the reply, Jake

[palallin]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Fred Bear

Fly fishing and recurve bows and trains, I'd say I'm pretty lucky. Thanks again to all that send in posts. Jake

Aha. I was wondering where your monika came from. I had a Bear once compound, once, but the laminated limb began to separate. I went with a composite PSE.

[Fred Bear]

The glue on one rail works great, so I'll try the rubber tires on the back and see what that does. The other thing I tried that really worked well also, is heat shrink tubing on one rail. I took the rails out to shrink the stuff on to them, then trimmed it, re-installed. It's neat, permanent and cheap. Sounds a lot like the girl I married!!!! No, just kidding about that, she is permanent, neat, but never cheap, although practical. 23 years, she still puts up with me. Fly fishing and recurve bows and trains, I'd say I'm pretty lucky. Thanks again to all that send in posts. Jake

[dwiemer]

Jake,
One idea I read recently is to add fine sand paper on the inside of the outer rails, alternate one side then the other as you don't want to break the connection between the engine and the rails. This may also be a problem with the traction tires, you still need to keep a open circuit.
Dennis

[Fred Bear]

Thanks Jim, Much appreciated, Jake

[Anonymous]

Jake,

You can try adding traction tires to your 1666. You can buy traction tires from an authorized Lionel service center. Buy several sizes and see what size fits best. Be sure to put a tire on both rear drivers. If you only put a tire on one, the engine will lean. You should also know that the rear of the locomotive will be a bit higher because the drivers don't have grooves in them to hold tires like newer engines do. Use Elmer's glue to adhere the tires to the wheels. Be sure each tire is against the wheel flange. This modification will not hurt the locomotive, because you can easily remove the tires if you no longer want them. I should also mention that it is not necessary to remove the side rods to install tires, just remove the screw in the wheels you want to put tires on and slip the tire between the rod and the wheel. Be sure the tire lays flat on the wheel.


Jim

[Fred Bear]

I've made a 5inch rise in the track to a small run around a mountain side. It looks nice, and I know 5 inches is a bit steep, but it had to be that or nothing. Poor pre planning, but it's how it worked. So my question now is, can I add something to one rail to gain traction? None of my 1666's have mag-traction, so I'll have to come up with something. I isolated the grade, tossed that circuit on beefed up voltage for the climb, back down to regular voltage across the bridge & flats, then killed it all together on the downhill side. I added teeny tiny drops of hot glue to one rail on the climb and part of the straights, to gain traction. That worked like a charm, but it tends to come off. What about heat shrink tubing? Is there such a thing as (yuk) rubber traction add -ons for loco wheels? Thanks to all for all the help with all these questions. Jake
PS. The bell ringing tender is now ringing it's obnoxious head off!