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Making a NON-Powered F3 powered - hard to get parts?

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Making a NON-Powered F3 powered - hard to get parts?
Posted by FEClionel on Thursday, June 8, 2006 3:30 PM
I recently came up with an idea to make a Wabash 2240 PWC remake Dummy A that I never use into a custom painted powered A. I know a good custom painter but I think the hardest part would be finding the right parts to make it run. Any ideas - has anyone done it?
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Posted by wrmcclellan on Thursday, June 8, 2006 3:46 PM
FEC, since it is modern Lionel (you say it is a PWC unit) one hope is to see if Lionel will sell you the front and rear motor truck assemblies. However, since PWC stuff is also limited issue, Lionel may only hold truck assemblies for warranty repairs.

Power assemblies for traditional F3s are not easy to find as lots of folks are trying to do just what you describe.

I have wanted to do a similar thing for my Lionel traditional GN set (needs more power - so I want to power one of the dummy A or B units) and essentially you will spend about the same price as buying a new unit to acquire all the pieces. I have spent quite some hours at York trying to find the right deal for a used set of power trucks (or powered F3 frame assembly), but they usually need a lot of work and the prices were higher than what I was willing to pay.

Good luck,
Roy

Regards, Roy

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Posted by dwiemer on Thursday, June 8, 2006 4:28 PM
Roy,
Do you think it would be possible to use one of the Williams powered truck assemblys that they sell? Not sure, but I know they sell them and it may just do the trick.
Dennis

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Posted by msacco on Thursday, June 8, 2006 4:34 PM
I have seen many postwar powered F3 trucks on ebay.


Mike Sacco
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Posted by wrmcclellan on Thursday, June 8, 2006 4:40 PM
Dennis,

Interesting point. Could not be done if you want it to run MU with a Pull-mor motor equipped unit (different gearing so speeds would be unmatched - however you could consider Lionelsoni's diode/rectifier voltage drop technique for possible speed/voltage match).

If this is a stand alone unit (or if all powered units would be converted the same way), then it could work. One would have to fabricate mounting/adapter plates for the F3 frame to the Williams motor trucks as the can motors use a different mounting hole through the F3 frame than the original Pull-Mors. It should not be too hard if one is handy with a bit of sheet metal, drill, and a file. This might require some irreversable mods to the F3 frame.

Regards, Roy

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Posted by wrmcclellan on Thursday, June 8, 2006 4:43 PM
Mike S.,

I have too. My point was more towards what it would cost to buy all the parts vs buying another complete unit and repainting it. And anything off of the Bay may require additional work and parts (expense) to be operational.

Regards, Roy

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Posted by dwiemer on Thursday, June 8, 2006 4:43 PM
I think I see a new project in my future. Don't have a "project engine" for this yet, but it might be a good idea.
Dennis

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Posted by CB_Fan on Friday, June 9, 2006 9:43 PM
I suggest you try Williams. It might cost more than you want to pay to substitute a Williams chassis for your F3 dummy chassis, but I have one that runs very well. Those guys are good to work with! I also have a Lionel GP7 that I had custom painted, and it's now running on a Williams GP chassis -- I bought a relatively inexpensive Williams and just swapped the shells then did a little touchup painting of the frame and railings.
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Posted by 1688torpedo on Friday, June 9, 2006 10:14 PM
Hello FEC! I've seen F-3 Parts at Warren's Model Trains such as Frames,Shells,& Motor's. Try Their website & see if they can help you out. Take Care.
Keith Woodworth........Seat Belts save lives,Please drive safely.
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Posted by 3railguy on Saturday, June 10, 2006 12:19 AM
You can do this to LTI dummys made in the USA using postwar 2383 parts. Since the Wabash is imported, the frames may use slightly different tooling so it's likely a problem. If you can, compare the Wabash frame to a US frame.
John Long Give me Magnetraction or give me Death.

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