Removing Rust/ cleaning engines/cars

[Anonymous]

I just received several old metal Lionel steam engines, and cars from a relative. They have some minor rust on them since they were stored in a basement back east. I wi***o resore them. I believe they all work or at least did until they were stored several years ago. How do I restore them, remove the rust, etc. I live in a rural northern calif. town with no train stores to take them to for assistance.

[Anonymous]

I just received several old metal Lionel steam engines, and cars from a relative. They have some minor rust on them since they were stored in a basement back east. I wi***o resore them. I believe they all work or at least did until they were stored several years ago. How do I restore them, remove the rust, etc. I live in a rural northern calif. town with no train stores to take them to for assistance.

[Roger Bielen]

Since no experts have replied I'll offer a suggestion. I've had success removing minor rust with WD40 and a very soft brush, usually an old toothbrush. Check for WD40 compatability with the finish in an inconspicuous spot. For general cleanup of plastic cars the usual method is dish detergent and water. Again, be careful not to scrub off the printing/decals.

Good luck.

[Roger Bielen]

Since no experts have replied I'll offer a suggestion. I've had success removing minor rust with WD40 and a very soft brush, usually an old toothbrush. Check for WD40 compatability with the finish in an inconspicuous spot. For general cleanup of plastic cars the usual method is dish detergent and water. Again, be careful not to scrub off the printing/decals.

Good luck.

[Anonymous]

Thank you for taking the time to answer the question. I'll give it a shot.
Steve K.

[Anonymous]

Thank you for taking the time to answer the question. I'll give it a shot.
Steve K.

[Anonymous]

I'll share my mistake with you to prevent anyone else from making the same one:

Don't use rubbing alcohol on painted plastic.

I have a 1957 Lionel GP-7 diesle engine that had dirt that wouldn't wipe off with just a moist rag.
I thought that I'de try rubbing alcohol, since it evaporates quickly, has cleaning properties, and that I thought it would be safe to use.

The GP-7 I have is Wabash RR, made from blue plastic, and has a gray painted roof, with a white painted stripe and letters, on the sides.

When I started useing the cottonball / cue-tip, saturated with alcohol---the gray / white started to smear. I stopped in time, before it got ruined, fortunatly.

Seems that rubbing alcohol acts as a thinning agent on old Lionel painted plastic.

If this post prevents even just 1 person from making this same mistake,--it's worth it.

[Anonymous]

I'll share my mistake with you to prevent anyone else from making the same one:

Don't use rubbing alcohol on painted plastic.

I have a 1957 Lionel GP-7 diesle engine that had dirt that wouldn't wipe off with just a moist rag.
I thought that I'de try rubbing alcohol, since it evaporates quickly, has cleaning properties, and that I thought it would be safe to use.

The GP-7 I have is Wabash RR, made from blue plastic, and has a gray painted roof, with a white painted stripe and letters, on the sides.

When I started useing the cottonball / cue-tip, saturated with alcohol---the gray / white started to smear. I stopped in time, before it got ruined, fortunatly.

Seems that rubbing alcohol acts as a thinning agent on old Lionel painted plastic.

If this post prevents even just 1 person from making this same mistake,--it's worth it.

[yellowducky]

A model train shop owner in Fort Wayne, IN ( deceased), told me he soaked old rusted motors in deisel fuel. Or was it fuel oil? I know of one engine I traded him, that I thought was a lost cause, that I saw run after he cleaned and lubed it. Anybody out there tried either?

[yellowducky]

A model train shop owner in Fort Wayne, IN ( deceased), told me he soaked old rusted motors in deisel fuel. Or was it fuel oil? I know of one engine I traded him, that I thought was a lost cause, that I saw run after he cleaned and lubed it. Anybody out there tried either?

[Anonymous]

I've never heard of that before.
Common sence dictates that as long as it's all metal, without paint, or wires on it, maybe it's OK.
I'de definatly make sure everything is completely dry afterwards. Especially with something thats electrical, such as a motor. One jolt of electricity to something still reaking of gas fumes, and POOF!

This method might be OK in a few instances, but I'de be leary of doing that,--myself.

I think fuel oil, and diesle gas is the same thing--isn't it? (maybe just different amounts of oil in it).

[Anonymous]

I've never heard of that before.
Common sence dictates that as long as it's all metal, without paint, or wires on it, maybe it's OK.
I'de definatly make sure everything is completely dry afterwards. Especially with something thats electrical, such as a motor. One jolt of electricity to something still reaking of gas fumes, and POOF!

This method might be OK in a few instances, but I'de be leary of doing that,--myself.

I think fuel oil, and diesle gas is the same thing--isn't it? (maybe just different amounts of oil in it).

[tmackinator]

I have used WD-40 on metal with good results. WD-40 can also be used on plastic pars in many cases but may remove printing so be careful! Also mineral spirits or naptha can remove grunge without harming factory paint on metal parts. Use these solvents outdoor with proper precautions please! ( Please test your particular case before trying however) I have cleaned plastic cars with a slurry of baking soda and water using a very soft toothbrush. Being careful, I have taken off paint spatter without harming the printing on the cars. (again please test before a major effort) Do not use any harsh solvents like alcohol or lacquer thinner as these will harm parts. Hope this helps.-TM

[tmackinator]

I have used WD-40 on metal with good results. WD-40 can also be used on plastic pars in many cases but may remove printing so be careful! Also mineral spirits or naptha can remove grunge without harming factory paint on metal parts. Use these solvents outdoor with proper precautions please! ( Please test your particular case before trying however) I have cleaned plastic cars with a slurry of baking soda and water using a very soft toothbrush. Being careful, I have taken off paint spatter without harming the printing on the cars. (again please test before a major effort) Do not use any harsh solvents like alcohol or lacquer thinner as these will harm parts. Hope this helps.-TM

[Anonymous]

Ok this sounds wierd but it worked. I purchased a prewar set at a train store very cheap because they thought it wasnt even good for parts. I just thought it would be a good runner if i could save it. I have learned alot since then and if i hadnt tried this i would say i was crazy. I got a soft black plastic cleaning brush for a dremel and at a low speed i used it to clean the white corrosion off the engine. As the brush cleaned it it wore off and somehow polishe the metal and sealed it, it looked beautiful. Its worth a try but BE careful and test it on a piece that isnt visible. I do alot with old trains and bicycles but nothing works better than wd40 and a rag. the wd40 will clean the rust and keep it from rusting again. Good luck and let us all know how it goes.

[Anonymous]

Ok this sounds wierd but it worked. I purchased a prewar set at a train store very cheap because they thought it wasnt even good for parts. I just thought it would be a good runner if i could save it. I have learned alot since then and if i hadnt tried this i would say i was crazy. I got a soft black plastic cleaning brush for a dremel and at a low speed i used it to clean the white corrosion off the engine. As the brush cleaned it it wore off and somehow polishe the metal and sealed it, it looked beautiful. Its worth a try but BE careful and test it on a piece that isnt visible. I do alot with old trains and bicycles but nothing works better than wd40 and a rag. the wd40 will clean the rust and keep it from rusting again. Good luck and let us all know how it goes.

[SPFan]

I've done quite a few restorations and the best tool for removing rust is a Dremel or similar tool and a steel wire brush. Use a slow (less than 1/3rd max) speed or the wire bristles will fly off. This will not remove the blueing. Do NOT use Naval Jelly or similar rust removing compounds as they will strip the blueing. If the rust is heavy and has removed the blueing you can touch it up with a cold gun blueing liquid available at most sporting goods shops. Brownell's Oxpho Blue seems to give the blackest color but you will probably never exactly match the factory finish. Finish off with a soft cloth and light coat of oil.

[SPFan]

I've done quite a few restorations and the best tool for removing rust is a Dremel or similar tool and a steel wire brush. Use a slow (less than 1/3rd max) speed or the wire bristles will fly off. This will not remove the blueing. Do NOT use Naval Jelly or similar rust removing compounds as they will strip the blueing. If the rust is heavy and has removed the blueing you can touch it up with a cold gun blueing liquid available at most sporting goods shops. Brownell's Oxpho Blue seems to give the blackest color but you will probably never exactly match the factory finish. Finish off with a soft cloth and light coat of oil.

[SPFan]

I should have added to my previous post that if the rusted part is nickel (or other?) plated then a wire brush may be too aggressive and actually remove the thin plating. Plastic brush may be a better tool.
That said, You might be able to find inexpensive plating kits to take care of lost plating. Rapid Electroplating in Chicago used to sell a nickel kit for ~$10. I still have part of a 1 ounce jar purchased 30 years ago. I am not sure they or their products still exist though. Eastwood in Pennsylvania and Caswell in upstate New York sell kits but their cost may be prohibative if you only have a few parts to restore.

[SPFan]

I should have added to my previous post that if the rusted part is nickel (or other?) plated then a wire brush may be too aggressive and actually remove the thin plating. Plastic brush may be a better tool.
That said, You might be able to find inexpensive plating kits to take care of lost plating. Rapid Electroplating in Chicago used to sell a nickel kit for ~$10. I still have part of a 1 ounce jar purchased 30 years ago. I am not sure they or their products still exist though. Eastwood in Pennsylvania and Caswell in upstate New York sell kits but their cost may be prohibative if you only have a few parts to restore.

[MacGowan]

Here's another weird thing that works that I've tried. To restore a high lustre to metal cars, I've used Future, a S C Johnson wax product for no-wax floors. It takes a long time to dry, but it turned out pretty good. By the way, I regularly use ArmorAll on plastic cars (painted and non painted.) Just let it dry and buff very lightly with a soft cloth.

[MacGowan]

Here's another weird thing that works that I've tried. To restore a high lustre to metal cars, I've used Future, a S C Johnson wax product for no-wax floors. It takes a long time to dry, but it turned out pretty good. By the way, I regularly use ArmorAll on plastic cars (painted and non painted.) Just let it dry and buff very lightly with a soft cloth.