Source for 24v bayonet bulbs for switches.

[MartyE]

Anyone have a source? I am using the newer Lionel O72 switches being powered off the same tap as Ross switches. They both need some volts to throw and my lamp covers are starting to get soft.

[Anonymous]

I saw an ad in CTT for http://www.scottsodds-n-ends.com which has many bulbs,etc. You can drill a small hole in each lamp to the let the heat out. I did and it helps mucho.

[cnw1995]

Williams is selling a box of 50 bayonet bulbs for a great price - I don't have the flyer with me now - they may have been 12 v.

[Dave45681]

Marty,

I bought a bunch a few years ago from Town and Country hobbies. They sell almost any kind of bulb you can imagine.

http://www.towncountryhobbies.com/

I think what you are looking for might be the # 2445 (way at the bottom) under the Light Bulbs Group A section

-Dave

[Anonymous]

Have you tried LEDS? they come in screw and bayonnet. They have worked great in my modern Beacon tower.

Scott R. Conforto

[MartyE]

I'd try them as long as the higher V won't hurt 'em. I'm guessing I'm right at 14v and the bulbs are starting to melt the switch covers.

[jkerklo]

www.Three-Rail.com can help with selecting and finding light bulbs.

Click on "LIGHTING" then "Light Bulb Data" or "Layout Lighting Suppliers."

[lionelsoni]

You could also try wiring a rectifier diode, like a 1N4001, in series with the lamp. The diode itself will generate almost no heat and will drop the lamp voltage about 30 percent. If you modify multiple switches point the diodes in opposite directions so as not to draw too much DC current from the transformer.

[Anonymous]

Marty, I want to hear more about your Lionel O72 switches. I love the look of and own O gauge track and want to the purchase the same switches. Yet, I hear and read good and bad about the switches. Can you please tell me about your experience with them? Thank you.

[MartyE]

They snapp fine...the biggest problem is that when in the curved position the frog against the rail to create the curve sits high causing a big bump as the train goes through the curve.

Also the way they have the frog travel on metal plates it caused the leg that ends up closes to the center rail to come in contact with the center rail when some pickup rollers go across causing arcing. Its very hard to explain so I'll try to post some pics when I get home Wed.

To sum it up I went to Ross switches and will only use the O72 in places that do not see a lot of action. The Ross's are smooth as silk.

[Anonymous]

So you mate your Ross switches to Lionel's O gauge track? How does it look next to one another? Do you have to use shims?

[MartyE]

I shim the switches and they make adapter pins. The shim is a piece of underlayment that folks use for floor before put tile down. I'm sure anything of the proper thickness will work. I've really hi balled through the Ross switches and it's like going through a regular curve.