Cross post/TMCC Help needed

[Anonymous]

Well, I did what I was told and all works correctly. I went to Radio Shack and bought the Double Pole/Double Throw toggle switch with 6 connections and ran the power from the transformer to the center connections on the Toggle and then from one side ran power to the TMCC Direct Lockon (power will then go out from the TMCC Direct Lockon to the track), and on the other side of the toggle ran power directly to another section of track. Works perfectly. With the throw of a switch I can run conventional transformer for my old style trains and then flip the switch to the other on position and run TMCC w/ the TMCC Direct Lockon now powered up and working to protect from shorts. In fact I derailed right after setting it all up and it worked as advertised. I even put together a pretty professional looking swithch w/ parts from Radio Shack. I got a nice switch and a plastic project box which I drilled out for the switch and wires. Looks like I bought it from Lionel. I'm thinking of taking some pictures to my local train shop and offering to build and sell a few to them.

I am new to this hobby (as in two mos.) and am becoming hooked. I just bought the Lionel BB1 set w/TMCC etc. Really like it.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Marc

[Anonymous]

The warnings for full voltage are mostly in regards to upgraded loco's and post war/modern era but pre command. These electrical components were no designed for sustained use at max voltage. You can wire in drop down resistors or diodes or replace the bulbs with higher voltage units (refer to page 34 of the TrainMaster Command Complete guide to Command Control). I melted down a couple of O-22 switch lanterns and softened the roofs of a couple of passenger cars before I started cutting back the track power.

[Buckeye Riveter]

There is some degree of accuracy o this too:

QUOTE: Originally posted by chuckn


BTW, don't run the tracks at full 18 volts for TMCC Command mode. That kind of track voltage can be hard on lights and some smoke units. I usually run at 14-15 volts,

I run at a full 17-18 volts in TMCC Command mode and have only replaced bulbs in one set of older Lionel Passenger cars for the last six years with 18 volt bulbs. None of my MTH Switch Bulbs have burnt out. None of my newer Lionel passenger cars have had any bulb problems. The only car other than the passenger cars that burnt out was the Lionel Chicken Coop car had one bulb fail. I also have not had any smoke unit failures either in TMCC equipped engines. (Remember, conventionals at normally less than the max voltage in order to keep them on the track and not the floor.) [2c]

[Anonymous]

There is some degree of accuracy to what you are being told. The TMCC direct lockon works best is a constant voltage situation and is hard to beat for this purpose. It has both overcurrent and overvoltage protection and automatic reset.

BUT, you don't necessarily need this. Almost any power supply that has a fast acting fuse/breaker will provide adequate protection from shorts caused by derailments. A well designed and placed TSP circuit will protect from spikes but a poorly designed or poorly placed unit can cause as much grief as none at all.

BTW, don't run the tracks at full 18 volts for TMCC Command mode. That kind of track voltage can be hard on lights and some smoke units. I usually run at 14-15 volts,

BBTW, there is a mode of operation called "transitional" where you are using mixed conventional and command engines in the same block. Difficult/challenging but possible and even documented in the "big" TMCC manual.

[MartyE]

I have the same setup as Jim H and run both. Not at the same time but both using the same setup. The fuse is more than ample to protect the engines. The train jumps the fuse goes poof. Been using this setup for about 5 years now.

[Buckeye Riveter]

When I purchased my TMCC System many years ago, they stopped me from purchasing the TMCC Direct Lockon when I told them I wanted to run conventional and command engines.

If you follow the tutorial on this page, http://www.coilcouplers.com/tmc/wiring.html they also say that the TMCC Direct Lockon is only for command engines.

Hope this helps. [:)]

[jimhaleyscomet]

I run an old ZW (output protected by 15Amp fuses) and just hook up my TMCC directly to transformer ground. Run both conventional and TMCC together without problems.

Jim H

[Anonymous]

I just bought my first TMCC engine, and here is the rest of the story. Clerk in the shop tells me I have to get the TMCC Direct Lockon which he says is nothing more than a surge protector. He tells me if I so much as derail or have any other power issues I can fry the components in the engine and it will cost hundreds to fix and it won't be a warranty repair. I say ok, what's another $35 for insurance.
Here's the kicker. I have a single loop track w/switches to an inner loop so its just one continuous track. He tells me now I can no longer run my conventional engines because l will have to use my transformer to speed up and slow down etc. and the current won't be steady and it will ruin the TMCC Direct Lockon which requires a steady current.
He told me to run conventional on the track I have to buy a Double Pole/Double Throw toggle switch with 6 connections and run the power from the transformer to the center connections on the Toggle and then from one side run power to the TMCC Direct Lockon (power will then go out from the TMCC Direct Lockon to the track), and on the other side of the toggle run power directly to another section of track. I would use the toggle switch to choose between TMCC operation and conventional.
Does this sound accurate and make sense. Can't I just hook the TMCC Direct Lockon up like it shows in the book that it came with and not worry about it when I'm running conventional? Will the fluctuation of power from running conventional destroy the TMCC Direct Lockon ?

Thanks

Oh by the way, I would appreciate posted replies copied to my e-mail, [e-mail]
as I can't always easily get back to the forum.