Replacing Drivers on a 1688 Torpedo

[mitchelr]

I am not sure what I am going to do. I bought the wheel set from Tebolt thinking I could do it myself. Now I am not sure. I am going to talk to one of my friend who went to York with me. He is pretty much into restoring stuff. If not, I have a shop that I use that has repaired my ZW and another locomotive. I might take it by the repair shop on my way home one evening. That's one good thing about being in Central PA, there are plenty of train shops close by.

Thanks to Keith Woodworth, Bob Nelson, wolverine 49 and the others who responded. I'll let you know how it works out.

Mitch[swg]

[1688torpedo]

Hello Bob - I sent a e-mail to you regarding your situation here. If you have never pulled or replaced drive wheels before have Dr.tinker do them for you. Just go to his web site & get his phone#. He will help you out for sure & it will cost you some $$$. Drive Wheels are nothing to experimate with at $ 10.00 per wheel on average costs.(Yea I know, you can get em cheaper.However, They may have zinc pest or be used & worn out) I have enough 1688s around to know better & if they need new wheels I have them put on by the same gent who restores them for me & he is a perfectionest at it. Only problem is he is tied up now which is why I referred you to Dr. Tinker for help. Take Care & let us know what happens.

[lionelsoni]

Putting the wheels on will not be easy. But one thing you don't need to worry about is the actual quartering. What is important is that the quartering error be the same on both axles; but the wheels on one side can actually have any angle relative to the other side. The Lionel General locomotives are proof of this.

Most prototype locomotives have the right wheels leading the left when running forward, except for the PRR.

[mitchelr]

Thanks wolverine49. The side rods are only one piece so I will be sure to make note BEFORE I reinstall wheels.

Thanks.

Mitch[:D]

[Anonymous]

mitchelr,

The next question that you need to ask is for advice on how to "quarter" the new wheels: 1. front wheels relative to rear wheels; 2. one side relative to the other.

This is not one of those things you want to learn the hard way. Make sure you understand this before pulling any wheels.

wolverine49

[More to restore]

The guy that regularly sells wheel pullers and other tools via Ebay sells two types: a small and a large one. The large one can just do the job, so I would hesitate to buy a small one.
Good luck mitch[;)]

[mitchelr]

More to restore,

Thanks for the information. I'll look for a wheel puller on eBay. What size wheel puller did you get?

Mitch [:D]

[More to restore]

Mitch,

This looks very familiar. I am not an expert in pre-war trains, but I did manage to replace the drive wheels on my 1688E recently. Coincidently, my new wheels also originate from George Tebolt, which is only a third of a globe away from my door step and only a 25 minutes drive for you.
Anyway, I specially bought a wheel puller for the occasion and it has proven to be useful for more restoration projects. You can find them on Ebay, but I am sure that there will be alternatives for you close by.
Placing the wheels back on the axis is much more tricky, compared to getting them off. I tried several things in vain, finally a large vices did the trick. Good luck.

[mitchelr]

Don't know if some pictures will help.





Mitch[:D]

[lionelsoni]

That's called "zinc pest". It is not uncommon in prewar trains and virtually certain in Dorfan. I have had several cases in K-Line pieces; and my MTH Big Boy is currently at their repair place because of it. (They have not yet admitted the problem, although they have had the boiler casting for some time now.)

It is caused by the tiniest bit of lead contamination in the zinc. The disintegration is inevitible. Nothing you did would have accelerated it or stopped it.

[mitchelr]

Keith- 1688 Torpedo and any other Pre-War Guys

Looks like I am going to have to replace the drivers. I was running the 1688 and it started to lock up. I'd put it in reverse and it would go a little and lock up again. When I was looking to see what was binding the one side rod broke right off. I knew the metal was soft and some teeth on the drive heels were worn down, but holy cow, the metal is like crumb cake, falling apart in chips and flakes. I guess it was so brittle that when I greased it the grease let it disintegrate. Good thing I went back to York yesterday and got the drivers from George Tebolt. Luckily it's only a 35 minute drive. Any tips on removing the old drivers and pressing on the new?

Mitch