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Ready for my first basic wiring 101 lesson

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Posted by tex702 on Sunday, April 9, 2006 6:03 PM
where do I find this subject on this web site. I have been told its here
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Posted by jimhaleyscomet on Sunday, April 9, 2006 11:18 AM
You might check your library or local hobby shop for a book on Toy Train Wiring (or just Toy trains). It might help to have a better explanation on paper.

Jim H
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 8, 2006 10:11 PM
I think the block sections are the way to go. Thanks! It's not all sinking in yet, but it's getting closer!
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Posted by jimhaleyscomet on Saturday, April 8, 2006 4:20 PM
Here is how I achieved a similar layout.

1. Electrically isolate the center rails of the loops where you want to park a locomotive. In fastrak I would do this by making a small cut in the center rails in the middle of the tracks on both ends of the parking loop. There are other ways but I have not tried them.
2. Find out which lead on your transformer feeds the center rail.
3. Run a tap off that lead to a switch (I have used light switches but any switch will work). Run a lead from that switch to the center rail of the parking loop.
4. Repeat step 3 for the other parking loop.

When the switch is off your engine will stop and stay on the parking loop. When it is on the engine will not stop or will leave the parking loop.

Hope this helps.

Jim H
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  • From: Bensalem, PA
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Posted by Dave45681 on Saturday, April 8, 2006 4:07 PM
Since you say you are using FasTrack, there seems to not be any way to add an insulating pin as one would for O tubular. There is a short piece of straight track listed in the catalog (6-12060) that is called a "Block Section". Incorporating this between the sections you want insulated should do the trick.

You don't really say it, but are the switches mentioned connecting the 2 loops?

If the loops are NOT connected together, it's just a matter of building a small panel or project box with a single pole double throw toggle switch in it to select which loop's center rail wil get the hot feed from the transformer. (this would just switch the center rail, the outside rails can be left connected to both loops with no problems for conventional operation - if you are the thorough or paranoid type, you can instead use a double pole double throw switch to switch both the outer rail and the center rail at the same time)

Regarding extra feeds for the loops, if you are comfortable crimping a quick disconnect plug, you can use Radio Shack #64-3134 (16-14 gauge wire) or 64-3132 (22-18 gauge wire) quick connects so you have less wire splices than you would if you use the lionel connectors and then extend them. Beware, the connectors sold at Lowes and Home Depot seem to be too big for FasTrack. I looked at several stores, and while they almost look to be the right size (I think they sell 1/4" connectors), they are too large. The RS ones are 3/16" (says .187" on the package) which does fit. These will come with both male and female (8 each) in the same pack, they don't seem to sell them individually, but they are not expensive, so I don't worry about it.

Once you have your preferred wires hooked to the track you could use a barrier strip with a shorting strip to make the connections to either the transformer or toggle switch. Example, say for a modest loop you have 3 feeds and then want to connect to the toggle switch. You can get a 8 position terminal strip, break the shorting strip to be 2 sets of 4 terminals wide (they are 8 wide, at least the ones available at RS), then place the 2 shorting stirips so that you have 2 sets of "common" connections on the barrier strip(MAKE SURE THEY DO NOT TOUCH ONE ANOTHER, ONLY THE 4 TERMINALS YOU INTEND TO CONNECT TOGETHER!). Hook all the center rail wires (and the toggle switch wire) for a loop to one of these sets of 4 screws, then hook the outer rail (and either toggle switch, or the wire that goes back to the transformer) to the other set. This should eliminate any changes in voltage along the track to a good extent.

Of course, if you do this with a single toggle switch, the trains can never be on at the same time. You can use a Single pole single throw switch for each loop, that would allow you to turn on each one independently, and both if you desire.

-Dave

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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 8, 2006 2:00 PM
Search the forum with "wiring" as the key word.
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Posted by phillyreading on Saturday, April 8, 2006 12:38 PM
You need insulating pins for the loops placed in the center rails, one at each end of the controlled track. Wire the extra power clips from the hot terminal of the transformer to the center and common to the outside, splice wires together with wire nuts, wire nuts are available from Home Depot or Radio Shack.
Lee F.
Interested in southest Pennsylvania railroads; Reading & Northern, Reading Company, Reading Lines, Philadelphia & Reading.
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Ready for my first basic wiring 101 lesson
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 8, 2006 12:12 PM
I'm about to embark on layout #3 and for the first time need to attempt some very basic wiring.

The layout is more complicated than this, but for the purpose of asking the questions let's say I have a large oval, 2 manual switches and an inner loop. (All Fastrack)
I have 2 trains with basic Williams engines and a CW80 transformer.

1. How do I wire the layout so I can run one train and have the other parked on either the inner or outer loop?

2. How do I wire for extra power leads to maintain constant speed around the entire oval?

Please either point me to a previous thread covering this
or explain it to me in real simple terms using only small words.[%-)]

......and please speak slowly! [D)]

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