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Switching for a passing siding

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Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, April 7, 2006 8:11 AM
I have added Microswitches to many of my turnouts to switch the power to sidings.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by Chris F on Thursday, April 6, 2006 11:00 PM
I wasn't able to access the manual for a RealTrax switch, but here's a copy of the manual for a Lionel switch to give you the general idea:
http://www.lionel.com/products/productnavigator/InstructionManuals/71-4062-250.pdf
Refer to page 10, Figure 7 for an example of a passing siding. The wiring shown is an example of interwiring switches, but it is not what you want to do.

Imagine a train on Track A moving clockwise and approaching the exit switch. If the switch is in the straight through position, the train would derail as it went through the switch. A non-derailing switch (like MTH's RealTrax remote control switch) is wired in such a way that the locomotive wheels complete a circuit and automatically throw the switch to accomodate the approaching train. No special interwiring is needed to make this happen.

Now imagine that same train out on the main line, approaching that same exit switch that is in the diverging position. Again, the locos wheels automatically throw the switch to the straight through position. Again, no special wiring is required.

What is required is a way to turn off the power to track A and track B to allow the trains to park. I have a spur on my RailTrax Christmas layout. Originally, I insulated the center rail tabs with electrical tape, soldered wires to either side, and connected an On-Off slide switch to control power. The tape kept coming off, so I cut off one of the center rail tabs. You would need to insulate each end of track A and track B, but only need one switch per track.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 6, 2006 8:52 PM
Thank you all for the great feedback and welcoming!!! I realize I did not clearly explain myself on the original post (although that open up some interesting discussion I wasn't even considering). Let me clarify:

I'm using MTH's Realtrack to build a simple oval (O-42 curves) running only one train on a 4 X 8 for my son. On the straight segment I want to add the passing siding to the inside of the oval so that he can run a passenger "set" on the oustide loop, then "park" the passenger cars and pickup a frieght "set" and run that around the track. (it would be so much easier to explain if I could post my layout from RR-track). Hopefully now you understand what I'm trying to accomplish.

PS...What's a nonderailing switch?

Thanks again!
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Posted by cnw1995 on Thursday, April 6, 2006 2:55 PM
There's an article in the May CTT about wiring a series of switches like pulling a lever in a tower. I have my passing sidings in the front of the layout using manual switches. I physically throw the one - move the train in. throw it back - move the other train past. Then throw the other, etc, etc

Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.

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Posted by FJ and G on Thursday, April 6, 2006 1:28 PM
I agree with Chris and Don. A nonderailing switch makes the point mute for a passing siding, and limits your options. If you don't have a nonderailing switch, you can either rig one up electronically or you can adjust the spring and make your own nonderailing switch.
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Posted by phillyreading on Thursday, April 6, 2006 12:41 PM
Welcome to the forum!
One of the problems with using Atlas brand switches is that it takes up alot of room on your layout. Ross Custom switches makes all sorts of switches, another one to consider is GarGraves, the only draw-back is the track height is that of 027 and needs adapter pins to mate with Lionel track or Atlas track. MTH Real-trac needs to be adapted out to Lionel or Atlas before being able to adapt over to Ross or GarGraves track, basically you will need a small piece of either 027 track or O Gauge track before adapting out MTH Real-trac; this information is from Ross Custom Switches website.
To use Lionel switches makes the center between the siding very wide, don't forget this point about 027 track from Lionel-most large locomotives or long passenger or long freight cars can't make it thru the turn on 027 switches because of the solenoid in the switch base. Maybe this will answer any questions about why people use track systems other than Lionel or MTH.
Lee Fritz
Interested in southest Pennsylvania railroads; Reading & Northern, Reading Company, Reading Lines, Philadelphia & Reading.
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Posted by tschmidt on Thursday, April 6, 2006 7:13 AM
If you are using TMCC you can throw them at the same time by setting up a "route." You are able to create all kinds of scenarios.

TomS
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Posted by Fred Bear on Thursday, April 6, 2006 7:04 AM
My switches sit back to back, and are wired together, but I do not have anything wired to them that I need to manually move. I can't remember how I did this, but they are wired so that when they switch, they switch at the same time, but they switch in opposite ways. They are derailers, so as the front trucks of the locomotive touches them, they both switch. I have the switches insulated from the rest of the track, and with their own power sources. They are 072 switches fromLionel. Jake
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Posted by dbaker48 on Thursday, April 6, 2006 12:15 AM
If they both switched in unison, wouldn't that cause a collision? As the train A leave the mainline, you don't want the other switch changed until train B has passed.

Don

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Posted by Chris F on Wednesday, April 5, 2006 10:00 PM
What brand/type of switches are you using? You can interwire many of them, but the specifics would depend on the brand/type. If they have a non-derailing feature, I'm not sure why you would need to interconnect them.

BTW, [#welcome] to the Forum!
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 5, 2006 10:00 PM
Yes

You can throw them using one switch and wire the switches in parallel.

Dale Hz
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Switching for a passing siding
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 5, 2006 8:18 PM
I'm relatively new at this and in my layout I want to create a passing sinding which uses two switch (one at each end). I looks to me like both of these should always switch in unison. Can I wire them in such a way that whatever happens to one switch will also opertate the other?

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