WIRING TRACK FROM POWER BUS

[cheech]

I AM IN THE PROCESS OF WIRING THE TRACKS FROM A POWER BUS THAT RUNS AROUND THE LAYOUT WHICH IS PRIMARILY LIONEL O-27. I PLAN TO USE LIONEL LOCKONS. THERE ARE PLASTIC FIBER PINS IN THE CENTER RAILS SEPARATING THE POWER BLOCKS AND ON THE TURNOUT SIDE OF THE SWITCHES [ 45 OF THEM]. I PLAN TO PUT POWER ABOUT EVERY 6-8 FEET OF TRACK ON ALL LOOPS AND SIDINGS. THERE IS ONE COMMON TO SERVICE ALL THE TRACKS. THERE ARE 12 POWER DISTRICTS.

1. MUST THE OUTSIDE RAIL BE THE SAME FOR EACH LOCKON I INSTALL OR CAN THE OUTSIDE RAIL SWAP BACK AND FORTH TO ACCOMODATE SOME OF THE TIGHT SPACING I HAVE AVAILABLE BETWEEN THE TRACKS. I HAVE TESTED SOME LARGE CARS AND THEY PASS THRU THE SPACE BUT WHERE I WI***O PUT THE LOCKON CAN BE AN ISSUE.

2. I PLAN TO USE SPADE CONNECTORS FOR SOME OF THE GARGRAVES TRACK ON THE LAYOUT. WILL SPADE CONNECTORS WORK WITH LIONEL TRACK. I AM SOLDER CHALLENGED AND WILL DO ANYTHING TO AVOID IT!

THANKS IN ADVANCE..

RALPH

[Anonymous]

You can use spade connectors with any type of "tubular" track.

Re the outside track pins and which way you attach the lockon. It depends. If you are going to try and use the outside rails for contol purposes you have to make sure to use insulated track sections and keep the insulated sides all on the "same side". If you only isolate the center rails for power distribution and use primarly O/O-27 track, the outside rails are automatically tied together.

[Birds]

With Lionel tubular track you can insert spades into the center gap on the under side of the rails. This lets you do away with lock-ons if you so desire.

A connection every 6-8 feet may not be needed. Try starting with less. I currently have one loop with 50 sections of tubular track and it is powered by one lock-on. There is no loss of voltage when the different portions of the layout are checked with a volt meter - this includes the sections farthest from the lockon.

Make sure your pin connections are tight. I've used both needle nose pliers and diagonal cutting pliers, and personally have better success with the diagonal cutting pliers.

Enjoy,
Birds

[phillyreading]

I have found that wiring an extra connection every 7-8 feet is very good especially using 027 or O gauge track, both wires from the transformer need to be included, the voltage drop may not always be detectable even by a digital multimeter as this happened on one of my layouts. Also if you use a switch be sure to power the siding right after the switch track for best electrical connection. Make sure the rails are joined nice & tight or power loss results will be high. One other thing about track is when you run trains for a while the track needs cleaning, around every three to four months for best operation, maybe more if you have smoking locomotives.
Lee Fritz

[Anonymous]

You get the most accutate reading of IR Drop when you have a load on the power district--3 or 4 amps minimum. I have found that on a no-load basis the Voltage reading is virtually meaningless as regards "Drop".

[Birds]

I had 3 amps going across the loop. No voltage drop. It was even a challenge for me to get a 3 amp load on the loop!

This loop was powering 5 O-22 switches (with standard bulbs) through track voltage, one A A Alco (1 powered and 1 dummy) diesel setup with lights in each engine, and 5 lit passenger cars with mini-lights in them. That load is substantially more than is typically run from the transformer that powers the loop.

I know that wire and track add some resistance, but I just don't think our track is inherently that poor of a conductor. If it was, then it would not have lasted as long as it has for various reasons.

My feeling is that the frequency of drops depends on how one sets up their layout and what type of equipment is being powered.