Going slow downhill?

[Anonymous]

I have set up my layout with two seperate loops one of which goes up and down via a Lionel graduated tressle set. The engine I use (70's era U.S. Navy Switcher) takes the hills fine but gains so much speed down hill that it derails on the curve. Is there anyway to automatically slow the engine on the downhill without constantly adjusting the transformer.
I have seen suggestions refering to the use of resistors but am electricly challenged. Can someone give me a real explanation of this? I get the idea just not how to do it.
Thanks,
Steve

[phillyreading]

Steve,
The use of resistors is not that hard to do, but you will need to insulate the section of track with fiber pins first, center rail, then install the resistors into the power wire going to the track or you can use a separate power control if you have a big enuff transformer.
One note about insulated track sections and that is passenger cars will defeat the insulated rail feature as the power pick-up wheel completes the circuit across the fiber pin. Make sure the resistors can handle up to 20 volts AC, 60 HZ.
Lee in West Palm Beach FL

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the reply. I did not think about the other cars as having pickup wheels. I tried insulating the downhill section of track and setting up a different transformer but it kept tripping. Now I know why. How do you prevent this?
As for the resistors, am I correct in understanding that they go inline before connecting to the track?
Steve

[phillyreading]

Steve,
The resistors go in line on the hot wire (spliced in)between the transformer and the lockon. If you are using two differant transformers make sure that they work with each other, if not try pulling out the plug one transformer and reversing the plug in the outlet, if that won't work because of the plug try reversing the wires on one transformer. One other car to watch the wheel sets on are cabooses that have lights inside.
Lee

[Anonymous]

Thanks, it is my caboose that is causing the problem. I do not have any passenger cars so it rules them out.
I will stop by Radio Shack and pick up a reesistor to play with.

[otftch]

I don"t know if you can still get it but I use the variable resistor that was used for trailer brakes on your car or truck.It is beefy enough to handle the load and you can just slide the contact to adjust the speed downhill.
Ed

[lionelsoni]

I recommend using the same transformer for the hill as for the rest of the loop. Put the resistor in series with the (isolated) center rail for the hill. I recommend a prewar Lionel rheostat (adjustable resistor). They are easy to find and cheap.

There are several options for modifying lighted cars so that they don't bridge the gap for more than an instant:

-Disconnect one pickup. This will of course increase flicker.

-Disconnect one pickup and install a bridge rectifier and capacitor between the remaining pickup and the light(s). This will actually reduce the flicker generally in motion, but leaves you more vulnerable to having a dark car when stopped.

-Separate the pickups and install a bridge rectifier between each pickup and the capacitor and light(s). This gives the least flicker and best chance of keeping the lights on when stopped.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the suggestions on the Lionel rheostat. I like the idea of being able to adjust the settings to my needs and keepong things Lionel is a plus. Based on a quick e-Bay search and price check, I think this will be my solution.

[Anonymous]

If you only run run train per loop and you can make insulated outside rails you can do this with a couple of relays and drop the voltage right from the transformer. This way you dont have to worry about the pickup rollers bridging the block.

Dale Hz