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Postwar Lionel painting questions

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Postwar Lionel painting questions
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 1, 2006 12:38 PM
I have a 675 steamer which I am restoring. It was covered with model paint and I have stripped it for repainting.

In a CTT article recently the author suggested using Krylon 1613. Is this considered ok for the average restoration? I am not trying to create a museum piece but do want it match my other lionel steamers.

The pilot and cyclinder pieces I have seen on other 675 engines look lighter , like they have a different fini***han the boiler. How were these parts finished and what products are available for that?

How do you strip the plastic tender body without damage. Can I use the same paint to refini***hat without damaging the plastic?

Whats the best way to fill small holes someone drilled in the pilot and boiler for the odd couplers they used?

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Posted by iguanaman3 on Wednesday, February 1, 2006 1:43 PM
Krylon semi-closs black is the most recommended paint and it works fine. I find it a little too glossy for old steamers and I use a flat black instead. I usually buff it out after curing to bring out some sheen. Lionel chemically blackend the pilot on most steamers instead of paint. I paint mine because the blacking process is hard to duplicate. I have had good luck using TSP cleaning powder (available at hardware stores) mixed with warm water to soak off paint on plastic bodies. It may take a few days but it doesn't affect plastic. Bondo is probably the best thing to fill those holes in the pilot.

Neil
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Posted by SPFan on Wednesday, February 1, 2006 2:05 PM
The current Floquil Engine Black is a pretty close match in sheen and will not hide the details like Krylon can. Old Floquil had a very flat finish. You can get it in a spray can if you don't have an airbrush. You can also get a replacement pilot from the repro parts outfits which will have the cast in coupler that was removed by the previous owner.

Pete
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, February 1, 2006 2:14 PM
The Floquil aqueous brand PolyScale Engine Black is also a good choice. It has an eggshell finish. Floquill is great but it is a solvent based paint (enamel), Both are best applied with an airbrush but you can probably get the enamel in a spray can. The plastic tenders I have/had were all made of black plastic. The only problem with refinishing some of these are the heat stamped lettering. The process of applying the lettering leaves a slight ridge around the edge of each letter. Micro fine sand paper can remove this and you can use extreme fine grades to poli***he plastic back to a smooth finish.
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Posted by Jumijo on Thursday, February 2, 2006 5:54 AM
Krylon semi-flat black for the boiler, and black primer for the pilot. I have a repainted 2025 same as a 675, that's been repainted this way. Looks brand new but not too glossy.

Jim

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, February 2, 2006 10:25 AM
Thanks,

These are some good options. I got this in a suitcase full of old trains from a family member. I little clean up and repair should produce some good pieces for my collection.
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Posted by Jumijo on Thursday, February 2, 2006 10:31 AM
I'm in Mass as well. If you ever want to get rid of those trains, let me know!

Jim

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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