Lionel 2056

[Anonymous]

Another question for all of you postwar experts-
My 2056 wheel gears seem tight-they turn when I move them by hand. I did have o replace a missing ecentric gear rod screw. All the gears seem to mesh right. It runs fine when I allpy full power and hit the reverse/forward button on the transformer, but it almost needs a pu***o get going when stopped. Once it is running, it runs like new. Where should I start?
Thanks
Tom

[1688torpedo]

Hello Northernpikefish! Check to see that there are no small pieces of metal that may have been attracted by the Magne-Traction of the wheels.This may be the cause of your problem as it will cause the mechanism to bind to the point where it may need a pu***o get going again.Let us know what happens.Good Luck!

[Anonymous]

I thought of the metal bits-there are none-2056 was made in '52. The was no magnetraction that year. What else could it be?
TOm

[ben10ben]

My 2056 seemed very tight when I first got it also. I did a standard service on it where I flushed all the gears etc. out with solvent, and this made a big improvement, although it still seems quite a bit tighter than my other spur-geared engines. It's not nearly as silky smooth as my 675 or prewar 229, both of which can be turned by hand with virtually no effort and make very little noise.

You might just cleaning it out and replacing the brushes.

[msacco]

I have this engine and love it. It has a good and reliable motor.
Performance you mention seems strange. Have you done a full overhaul? By this i mean full cleaning of commutator, brushwells, replace brushes, lube. If you haven't I would start here and see what this, if anything, solves.

[lionelsoni]

How did it run before you replaced that screw? Are the rods free on the crank? Or is it possible, for example that the side rod or main rod is being pinched by the crank?

You might try rocking the wheels back and forth with your thumb, to see whether all three axles have a little backlash. If one of them doesn't, that will tell you that the problem is with that axle or its wheels. Another check is for a little end-play in the axles.

[iguanaman3]

Try removing all the siderod bolts and see if that frees it up. Spur gear motors have gears turning all the wheels if one of the gears slip the wheels will be "out of quarter" and the siderods will bind. This won't happen with berkshires and most newer steam because only one axle is driven and the siderods turn the other wheels.

Neil

[Anonymous]

Try cleaning out all the old grease with a solvent like WD-40. Then relub with synthetic grease (Red and Tacky #2 at Napa) and synthetic oil ( like Mobil 1 ) that do not dry out and get hard or sticky. It may help.

You may have some binding in the frame that has the bearings out of aligenment.

Charlie

[Chris F]

(Provided for parts ID's):
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/LOCOS/DEB2046A.pdf

The eccentric crank (226E-19) has two square pins that must fit into corresponding slots in the center driver. If you don't get the pins in the slots, the drive wheels will bind (they did when I first reassembled my 2056), assuming the Phillips screw is tight enough. Applying high power may overcome the friction, but is likely to wear the pins or (worse) the slots.

Remove the screw, crank, and bushing. Move the eccentric and main rods out of the way and you'll see the slots in the center driver. Check the bottom of the crank to see the pins. Reassemble the parts, tightening the screw until you feel it just holding down the crank. Rotate the crank until you feel the pins drop into the slots (or stay in the slots, if you lucked out). Tighten the screw. Repeat for the other side.

Check the positions of the eccentric cranks. On my 2056, with the left crank at the 6 o'clock position, the right crank is at about 10:30.

[lionelsoni]

A quartering error will cause no problem as long as it is the same on all axles. (The "General" locomotive has no quartering.) Having one axle at a different position from the others does not affect the quartering. Nevertheless, the rods will bind in that case, as Neil says, if the axles are all driven directly, as they are in this locomotive.

The post with the hole and screw through it that goes through the side rod and the end of the main rod is the main crank. On prototype two-cylinder locomotives, the main crank on the right (engineer's) side customarily leads the left by 90 degrees going forward. (PRR is an exception.) Because the rods are in the way, the eccentric crank cannot be as simple as the main crank, that is, a post attached to the side of the wheel. Instead it is built as a "return" crank, a bar attached to the end of the main crank that "returns" toward the hub to the correct position for the valve gear, that is, trailing the main crank by 90 degrees and closer to the wheel center. This return crank is cast with the main crank as one piece in the model.

Since the throw of the eccentric crank is less than the main crank (about half), the return angle for the eccentric crank is less than 45 degrees, to put it closer to the hub. However, Lionel used a full 45 degrees, perhaps so that the valve motion would be less subtle. (I am going by the 773 Hudson and assuming that the small Hudson is similar, since I sold mine a while back.) The slots in the wheels that Chris describes were duplicated 90 degrees apart, so that the crank could be installed 45 degrees either way, to get the correct direction on both sides of the locomotive. This is one of those assembly details (like backward tender water scoops) that often got overlooked.

(MTH tried to correct the return-crank angle in the Rail King Big Boy by rotating the slot pattern in the wheel casting. But they retained the 90-degree separation between the pairs of slots, making one crank correct but the other wildly off. They solved this problem by instead assembling one of the cranks in the wrong direction.)