Led's in switches and other lights?

[Sturgeon-Phish]

Scots odds and ends. There is a similar post going on now. Was not a part number but you tell them what color (clear green or red) bayonett or screw in, and if you want it to light up or out. On the 30B I used clear, bayonett, light up.
Jim

[sgriggs]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Sturgeon-Phish

I received the led for my 30B yesterday and put it in the transformer. Works great, looks fine, DOES NOT get hot. I'll be getting more for places where temperature and or ease of changing is a factor.
Jim

Jim,

I'm looking to do the same LED replacement on an AF 17B and 19B with melted green indicator jewels. Since you are happy with an LED in the same application, could you tell me where you bought it and what part number you used? Thanks!

Scott

[jefelectric]

JJKT,

If you want to try the sockets shown and can't find them locally, they have them on this site at 20 for 12.00. Pretty good price as most shops charge a buck apiece.

http://www.towncountryhobbies.com/Sockets-Lampholders.htm

John

PS: I have bought from them before and they are reliable.

[darsenau]

I have gotten some of the VERY inexpensive Christmas lights at W-mart stores. A string of 100 for $1.99. The bulbs are 2 1/2 volts and when used with 6 or 8 bulbs in series, they work very well for lighting the porcelin buildings.

[Anonymous]

John and Fred,

Thanks for the info. I think that is just what I need to try.

Jeff.

[fwright]

I have used a white string of Christmas mini-lights in ceramic buildings. The effect was quite nice when the room was darkened some what. But I didn't like having the 120 volt wiring going building to building.

I have seen - haven't tried it myself yet, but will next Christmas layout - using partial strings of the Christmas mini-lights for ligting buildings. Hardest part is determining voltage of individual bulbs. Bulb voltage is 120 divided by number of bulbs in a particular channel (most large strings have more than 1 channel). Then count a section of light string long enough to get enough bulbs in series for the voltage you are using, cut it, and wire it in. Very cheap, gives a nice glow, heat is reasonable.

LEDs generally don't work as well for building lighting because of their "spotlight" effect - the light is very directional unlike light bulbs.

For passenger cars, wire a 1K resistor in series with each LED, and the LEDs (with resistors) parallel to each other. You probably want a full wave bridge in the feed from the trucks to prevent the reverse voltage frying the LEDs. A large capacitor across the bridge output (watch polarity) will reduce the flicker from the rollers losing contact. My caution is to try one car first (without yanking the old wiring), and see if you like the directional effect of the LEDs.

yours in lighting
Fred Wright

[jefelectric]

JJKT,

You asked about lighting ceramic buildings with smaller lamps. I have been doing it with low voltage lamps as shown in these pictures.

http://www.jeanandjohn.net/trains.html

I discard the 120 lamps and sockets and use a small plastic lamp socket available in most train shops for the ones with socket opening in the bottom. For the ones with the opening in the back I use an electricians knockout closer of the required size to close the hole and bolt a small low voltage socket to the inside of the KO closer. I do the assembly and then snap it into the hole in the building. I paint it to match the building if it is in a visable location.

I hope I have made this clear, it is really pretty simple. If you wanted you could use the led lamps in the sockets instead of incandescent lamps.

John

[Sturgeon-Phish]

The LEDs from the article in March 06 CTT pg. 89 describes bulb bases, so they should be a direct replacement.
Jim

[jonadel]

I have three sets of passenger cars I think I would like to convert to LED's simply because they suck up so much power. How difficult of a job is it? I'm sort of handy but my soldering skills are outdated and in need of improvement. What say you?

Jon

[Anonymous]

I am currently using the 120vac lights that come with the buildings in strings of 3 or 4 but I would like to use some alternative that ran off of one source like an extra, small transformer. I would also like to light a few Lionel and Plasticville depots and yard buildings I have built. The heat generated by the bulbs that come with the ceramic buildings makes me worry about warping or melting the plastic. I am not that familiar with wiring and electricity. Simplicity is a must.

And thanks for the welcome!

[locomutt]

QUOTE: Originally posted by JJKT

My first and already screwed it up. It should read led's or fiber optic lighting.

First of all,welcome to the Forums !!!

Don't feel bad,everyone makes misteakes mistakes once in awhile.
You can edit your replies;or if you will hit "preview" before you submit,you can
make changes then.

As far as your original question;what voltage are the building lights ?
12-18volts,you should be able to use the accessories terminals on your
power pack. I guess you could use batteries,but that would become very expensive.

[Anonymous]

My first and already screwed it up. It should read led's or fiber optic lighting.

[Anonymous]

Has anyone got any advice for alternative lighting in ceramic buildings? I don't like all the cords and heat and mess. Anyone tried leds of fiber optic lighting?

[Sturgeon-Phish]

I received the led for my 30B yesterday and put it in the transformer. Works great, looks fine, DOES NOT get hot. I'll be getting more for places where temperature and or ease of changing is a factor.
Jim

[Anonymous]

Here I converted my turbine to Minatronics Yelo Glo LED's.

You can see how I did it on this topic

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=51979

Its reallly nice and bright. I just converted my Lionel seachlight car to leds too.

[Sturgeon-Phish]

I just ordered an LED for my 30B transformer power on lamp. I've melted several covers and this will be cheaper ($5 + shipping) than replacing covers. I've been operating with the burnt out bulb left in, but I really would like to have the power on indication. As soon as I get the bulb in I'll post what I think of it. Color is not a big deal because it's under a green cover. I'm not replacing the red "short" indicators because they are not illuminated long enough to cause a problem.
Jim

[jefelectric]

I am using some leds on my layout and plan to add more at some locations. If you want some tech info check out these web sites.

http://www.theledlight.com

http://.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm

John

[lionelsoni]

More pros and cons:
Pro: An LED can be installed permanently, without a socket, in a small, tight space like a freestanding headlight or a signal head, since they last pretty much forever.
Con: "White" LEDs are unrealistically blue.
Pro: You can get special ones that imitate the incandescent color temperature: http://www.richmondcontrols.com/
Con: You wouldn't think you could see it; but the rapid turn on and off of an LED doesn't look like an incandescent.
Pro: A capacitor across the LED can fix this.
Pro: The LED changes brightness with current, but much less than an incandescent does, and changes color temperature not at all, which reduces the need for constant-brightness circuits.
Con: The uneven spectrum of an LED can lead to some odd hues when it is used behind a color filter, as in a switch lantern.
Pro: LEDs are available in almost any color you might want to use.

[Chris F]

The current (March) issue of CTT reviewed LED lamps from Scott's Odds-n-Ends ( www.scottsodds-n-ends.com ):
"Pros: No special wiring or installation, extremely long life, intense beam, generates no heat, uses a fraction of the electricity of an incandescent bulb
Cons: More costly than an incancescent bulb" [$4.98-$6.65]

Although the bulbs are rated for 12-14V, the review indicated no problems when the voltage was increased to 18V (e.g., for some TMCC-users).

It would cost about $15 per O-22 switch to replace the incadescent bulbs with the LED bulbs. Buying LED's and resistors in bulk would reduce costs, but require some design and soldering work. Worth it? Not to me, but I have enough transformer power, my switches and accessories are accessible, and I don't run TMCC at more than 16V. If you would otherwise have to buy another transformer, have hard-to-reach switches, or run at 18V, the LED's might be just what you need.

[thor]

LED's are better IMO. They use much less power and should last almost forever but they must have a current limiting resistor. However from what I read up here, it seems that some Lionel devices rely on the resistance of the lightbulbs to work.

[Anonymous]

Anyone using leds in place of regular lights on there switches, and or other
lighted accessories? I'm thinking about changing my 022 switch lights
and light towers.
If you use them, what are yours thoughts? worth the money?