It's ALIVE!!

[Anonymous]

Ok.. the 2046 Lionel engine I rescued will go backward but not forward. I get electrical buzz and some backward movement on its own. When I flip the switch only the light stays on but no electrical motor buzz can be heard. All I have done is clean it a little. I set up my old train tracks...which need a severe cleaning. So What works best for cleaning tracks and contacts? What kind of oil and grease should I get for the engine?

[:p]

[wrmcclellan]

I recommend Scotchbrite pads (do not use steel wool!) and WD-40. WD-40 is electrically conductive and provides some rustproofing.

Use a Lionel grease set if you can get one. Otherwise for older locos (no plastic gears) you can use Lubriplate lithium wheel bearing grease for spur and worm gears. Use a very light (e.g. 3 in 1 oil) oil for bearlings and bushings.

For any newer locos with plastic gears, get plastic compatible oils and greases at your local hobby shop (i.e. RC car/plane shops carry this).

Contact cleaner spray from Radio Shack (yes they still sell it) can be used to celan out the e-unit plunger and the motor commutator and brushes.

Good luck and keep working on it.
Roy

[Anonymous]

Ok... I checked around and there is a train hobby store near me. They have a Lionel kit for 14.95. I'll pick that up and break out the WD-40.

Thanks!

[palallin]

If you haven't already, check the brushes. They can wear at an angle, and they can jam in the worn direction, allowing backward running (much less common) while hanging up going forward.

[Anonymous]

I guess I need to get an exploded diagram of the engine so I can check that.

[Anonymous]

WD-40 is a penetrating oil and it will creep - be very careful where you use it. I would never use it on a loco for fear it would work its way into the motor. Sewing Machine Oil might be a better choice. Just my $0.02
Ted

[wrmcclellan]

Just to clarify as TED indicates. I was suggesting the WD-40 for the cleaning of the track. Not for the loco.

However, WD-40 will not hurt the loco motor. When WD-40 was introduced many many years ago, they did a neat demo by spraying the brushes and commutator of an electric drill and then dropping the running drill into a bucket of water. The bucket was clear plastic so you could see the drill operate under water.

The WD in WD-40 stands for "water displacement". WD-40 is also somewhat electrically conductive.

http://www.wd40.com/AboutUs/our_history.html

However, WD-40 is too light for proper lubrication of a loco motor.

[1688torpedo]

Hello WBowie! Sounds like your reverse unit may need to be re-built. The Electrical Copper contacts inside may be corroded or burned and need to be replaced. If That is the case. Then look for a Lionel Service station and take your 2046 there and let them put it on a track to get a better idea of whats wrong. This sounds like what is wrong with the 2046 as it will run good in one direction or not at all and this is what happens with a reverse unit with Burned copper contacts also. If there is no service station nearby then let us know and we'll refer you to some good places to take your engine. Take Care.

[Anonymous]

Hello,

I can rebuild your E- unit for you, sounds like the fingers or drum (or both) are either burned up or very dirty. Ive seen both happen. It takes skill and a special tool to do it properly

Just email me to a schedule the re-biulding of the E-unit - heres the link [e-mail]

I suggest to pull out the E-unit first before shipping, it would be cheaper to send then.

[Jim Duda]

Mine wouldn't run in one direction either...click on the pic to see why...a new e-unit solved everything...and it doesn't buzz!

[mpzpw3]

I read in your post where you "flipped the switch", and only the headlight worked. The lever is a lockout switch only. The e-unit will cycle through forward-neutral-reverse if the lever is in one position, and will stay locked in either forward, neutral, or reverse in the other position. Hope that made sense.
Either way, a good cleaning and lube is probably in order.

[Anonymous]

Well there is a service place in my town and they have been in business a long time. Also there is a local model railroading club I'm going to see about joining. I want to try and fix it myself...but if its something not for a beginner then I will have it fixed and then just worry about proper maintenance from there.

[ben10ben]

E-units are not too terribly difficult to repair, but not for the faint of hear either. My first attempt at putting one back together took about an hour; subsequent attempts much less time. I just did one a few minutes ago in about 5 minutes.

The first thing you have to to is get it apart. This is probably the easiest part. Remove the e-unit from the engine, cutting off or unsoldering all the wires in the process. Take a pair of needle-nosed pliers spread the jaws apart inside of the lower part of the unit-the part containing the drum and fingers. Once you have the pliers properly in place, pull them apart with all your might until you feel the unit give. One of the sides will pop outward, and you will have acess to the three main components. The drum and the lower set of contacts should fall right out. The upper contacts may require that you carefully work them out.

Once you've removed all three parts, check them for damage. Fingers should be straight, and they should all look pretty much the same. Check for burnt off tips, etc. If in doubt, replace them. I've never had to replace a set on a Lionel engine, but I know that the American Flyer equivalent are about $5 for a set.

Next, look at the drum. It should be clean, and the copper segments should be firmly fixed in place. Once again, if in doubt, replace. I bought a new drum back in November at a cost of $4 from my parts dealer(Grandpa's Toy Train parts and Repair in Union, KY).

If you opt to not replace the contact fingers, I would suggest that you rewire them all at this time, as it will be more difficult with the e-unit in place. Use a soldering iron to remove the old wires from the eyelets, and solder new wires in their place, cutting them off so that they don't extend into the e-unit very far. I use 24 gauge stranded wire from Radio Shack, the type where you get three different rolls(red, green, and black) for about $5.

Re-assembly is probably the most difficult part. If you look, one side should be free to swing from side to side some. Place this side up. Put the top contact back in place, making sure that both sides are seated properly, all while applying some tension to hold the two sides together. Then, put the drum in, making sure that it also sits in its two holes and that the teeth are facing the proper direction(so that when the pawl goes up, it will engage them). Finally, put the bottom contact in, also making sure that it fits into both slots properly. Snap the two sides back together after once again making sure that everything's seated as it should. Then, find the place where the crossbar that holds everything together goes into the sides, and tap it with a ball peen hammer to make sure everything is good and tight.

E-unit repair is probably my least favorite type of work on trains, but it's a necessary evil. You may find that you like restoring junkers after your experience with this engine, and, if that's the case, you'll need to learn eventually.

[Anonymous]

Yeah... I just need to set up a good work space so I can lay everything out. Thanks for the instructions. Is there anywhere online that has exploded diagrams for free?

[Anonymous]

Ill get you one...

Heres some diagrams,

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=1070

[wrmcclellan]

BTW - I really like the title of this post! [:D]

[jim22]

Ben,
Does your dissassembly procedure get so far as to be able to remove the coil? I have an e-unit that needs to have it's lever re-mounted.
Jim

[jim22]

Oh, I almost fogot...
WBowie,
If you're lucky, the e-unit might start to work better with a little exercize.

I just got 3 engines running which have been in storage for about 25 years. At first, the old steamers would not really run at all, like stuck in neutral. The headlights would come on, but no motor, no buzz. Then one started running backwards-only, every 3rd or so time I started it up. Pretty soon I could hear a buzz (the e-unit), and with it buzzing, cycling the power makes it switch. I think there is a gravity-driven lever inside which needs to drop down when the power is off. I can hear mine making a clunk when I turn the power off if it's going to work. It seems to require a fairly high track voltage to get it buzzing, and then it switches pretty well.

The Radio Shack tuner cleaner might free it up without having to take the unit apart at all.

Good Luck! I love fixing old stuff :-)
Jim