Lionel #1122 027 Remote Control Switch

[Dr. John]

The controller you linked to on eBay should work.

[lionelsoni]

Don't get me wrong. You should be able to use the ones on Ebay. Just don't expect any O27 controller to tell you the actual switch position.

[Anonymous]

Do you know where I can get the proper controllers? I'm not sure what to get because I see a lot for sale on Ebay. Thanks!!
Ed

[lionelsoni]

For some time now, the O27 switch controllers have not had lights. Unlike the O31 controllers, the O27 ones like the one for sale simply had a shutter that is moved by the lever; so they don't actually tell you which way the switch is, but rather which way you last moved the lever. This could be a problem if the switch has been thrown by the anti-derailing function built into the switch. The later O27 controllers each operate only one switch and are very simple in construction.

[Anonymous]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6026245436&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:US:1

Does this look like the switch I need? If the link does not work, this is the number on Ebay- 6026245436

Sorry to be such a bother but I want to be sure I'm spending my money wisely.

Thanks!!

[Anonymous]

Thanks to everyone for their help!!

[martinden]

Eddie,

You don't really need an actual Lionel controller -- ordinary pushbuttons will work fine. In a pinch, doorbell buttons or something like that from Home Depot, or on-off pushbutton switches from Radio Shack will work. You'll need four of them for two track switches.

Another possibility is to get a couple of center-off SPDT momentary switches from RS (or another electrical supply dealer). Make sure they're momentary and have a center off. ("Momentary" means they're spring-loaded and return to the center-off position when you take your finger away.)

The control circuit is on the "base" or "common" or "ground" side of the track circuit -- i.e., the outside rails. The "hot" or "high" side comes from the center rail. The post nearest the switch motor box on the track switch itself (the post is clearly attatched to the metal frame of the switch) provides power for the controller; one wire (of a triple conductor) carries power out to the control box; when the lever is pushed, momentarily power is sent down one of the other wires to one of the posts, throwing the switch one way or the other. A bit of experimenting will show which one is which.

In the absence of three-conductor wire, you can just use three separate wires . And, in fact, there's no reason to run the "power" wire from the track switch to the controller -- you can just get power from the transformer itself, or from a lockon near the transformer -- connect to the outer rail or directly to the transformer post that goes to the outer rail.

If doorbell switches don't seem very "railroady," you can go to a hobby shop and get a couple of Atlas switch controllers, which might suit you better. These don't really have the capacity for the current consumed by the Lionel selenoids, so they may or may not last forever.

Finally, note that Lionel controllers are lighted, while these arrangements don't have lights to show which way the switch is thrown, but they'll probably serve until you can get a controller from eBay or whatever.

[Dr. John]

Eddie,
I have had luck finding both the #1122 switch and controllers on eBay. You might also try a Google search and see if you come up with a supplier. These switch points are moved when an electric solenoid is charged by means of a controller.

Good luck!

[Chris F]

Here's some service information on the 1122's:
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=683
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=684

Unfortunately, Olsen's doesn't seem to offer the 1122-100 controllers. Maybe someone else can recommend a supplier.

[Anonymous]

I have 2- #1122 Lionel switches (track only) I was told yesterday I need some type of control to run these switches. Does anyone know what they mean and where i can buy them? Thanks in advance for your help!

Eddie