Collecting

[statistician]

Book values are typically only used by hobby retailers in determining a "fair" starting price for Postwar items. They are just that... starting prices. I've never come across a seller not willing to negotiate. Unless it is a very rare item, most eBay auctions end far below book value. Check the "completed items" listing on eBay to get a more accurate idea of the going-rate.

Years ago, I sold my 2343 AA in VG+ condition for $600.00. Today they would command between $250.00 - $325.00 on eBay. Book prices have fallen in many instances due to the relative ease of finding items that were once difficult to locate without eBay and the internet.

Remember, something is worth what people will pay for it! This may be more, but usually less than the book price.

[dwiemer]

When bidding on ebay or any auction, remember to check what the shipping will be. One guy is charging $15. flat fee for all his boxcars. So, if i get the car at $20., the cost is really $35.00. Keeping that in mind, only put a max bid of what you would be willing to pay in total cost. If you get it, great, if not, keep checking the trainshows, etc.
Dennis

[Dave Farquhar]

Best advice is to keep at it. I probably win 20% of the auctions I bid on. Some people win a lot less. Keep the price you're willing to pay in mind, as well as the condition (don't overpay for a nice one if you want a fixer-upper, and don't settle for a beater if you're looking for something nice) and eventually you'll get one.

I have a couple of specific items I'm after right now. About one a week shows up. So I place my bid and see what happens. The more common your target is and the more often it shows up, the better your chances of course.

Given enough time or money (I don't think both are absolutely necessary), almost anything's possible.

[Anonymous]

Hey rmr100,

I would suggest a 2343, because it has the same details as the shell, details, and what not, plus it has magne-traction. The only differance is in the number boards.

Besides, the 2343 was the first F3 to head up the Super Speedliner in 1952, when the cars were fist introduced. The next year the number was changed to 2353.

But, if you really want a 2333, then Toy Train Heaven has one for $325.

[Anonymous]

Thanks. Most helpful. I have to get a price guide. Had a Greenberg's but it's lost. I seem to be outbid on E-Bay by from $2.50 to $10 every time. I've been trying to get a 2333 Santa Fe to go with my passenger cars but have been so far unsuccessful.

[dwiemer]

Joe,
I agree that the pricing in the book seems a bit off. It seems to me, when I am trying to value what I have, the prices are high in the book, but I would never be able sell a train and make the money they suggest. Then, if I want to buy, the prices seem low and I can't find one for the money. I agree, check what the pricing is going on Ebay and at shows.
Dennis

[Anonymous]

Saw your post on the "other" forum. This forum probably has more people "into the old stuff". I like Lionel postwar steamers, but have a limited budget. What I do is set a priority list of the type I want, ie. Berk., Turbine, etc. Then, using a book like Doyle or Greenberg, I pick the year that most appeals to me for each type. For instance, a 675: I did not want the stamped number keystone on the boiler front , or the silver stack of the first postwar issues, nor did I want the 4 "cheaper looking" trailing wheels of the late issue...so that left me looking for the ones made in 1948-9. Next thing is to find one in a condition you can "live with". Price-wise, look at train shows and eBay to get a feeling for "real world". I personally feel that many "book" prices for Excl. and LN are understated. For instance, I had been looking for the first postwar metal caboose, with steps, red body, in Excl. condition. The book says $35...HA!, try to find one. After 9 mos of searching, including York, I ended up paying close to $50. on eBay.
Not being a collector, in the true sense of the word, I'd like to see comments from others. Joe, in Media,PA

[Anonymous]

Hi;
I'm just getting back into collecting and could someone tell me what would be doable regarding post war O gauge Lionel. I know iot's a big area.
Also, what would be good to run?
I sold most of my O and Standard 20 years ago.
Thanks for any and all replies.