Protosound 1 Issues

[Anonymous]

Original chip is back in and batteries should be fully charged.

[spankybird]

Did you put back in the orginal chip?

[wrmcclellan]

Did you charge the battery for several hours (I think MTH recommends 12!). Make sure the battery is fully charged and then try the rest procedure again.

[Anonymous]

I tried the MTH battery that came with the kit and also the fully charged NI-MH battery that I had picked up a few weeks ago.(same result with either battery)

[wrmcclellan]

Did you replace the battery?

[Anonymous]

Update....
I got the protosound reset kit yesterday and went through the procedure described with the kit. Now when I start the engine it gives 3 clanks then 2 bells followed by the normal diesel idling sounds, but still won't reset and run through forward, neutral, and reverse. Any ideas?

[wrmcclellan]

PS2 conversion is tedious but quite achieveable if you have decent electronic and soldering skills.

You also need to be able to handle the occasional gliitch like I encountered with the C&NW HUdson conversion when the connector in the loco for the tender harness did not fit and required physical modifications to work.

Regards,
Roy

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys that's what i needed to know.

How difficult is it to convert to PS2?

[spankybird]

here is a link for the reset chip $24.95

http://www.mth-railking.com/detail.asp?item=50-1023


click on the 'find icon' to see who has it in stock [:D]

[wrmcclellan]

Call or fax them:

410-381-2580
FAX:[phone]

I believe the fix-it kit is under $50.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the help...

Does anyone know the price/part number for the MTH circuit reset kit? I'd also consider upgrading the sd-60 to PS2 since it's a premier engine that I've only got about $30 in.

[wrmcclellan]

Hydra,

1. Proto 1 does not have synchronized chuffing and depending upon the loco in question, the chuff rate vs driver revolutions is pretty bad in today's sounds world. When Proto 1 came out - it was the coolest thing out there. The headlight probably needs replacement. MTH parts are very helpful or you can try to locate a generic replacement. You will need a bulb that can handle at least 18 volts.

2. Your MTH battery is dead. You probably should replace it. I recommend using an MTH replacement battery, but there is a battery from Radio Shack that will also work, Ni-CAD PN 23-448. RS also has a Ni-Mh battery, PN 23-529, that some prefer since Ni-Mh batteries can be left on charge without the battery memory problem of Ni-CADs.

Note that these are 8.4 v batteries and are equivalent to the MTH batteries.

DO NOT use other 9 v rechargables (e.g. Sears) of which most are 7.2 volt batteries and may ruin/scramble your Proto1 circuit boards and cause you to take it to a MTH dealer to attempt a circuit reset with a special integrated circuit (you can also purchase the Proto1 circuit reset kit from MTH). Also note that if you use the bad battery too much, this can also scramble the Proto 1 circuits and will need the reset operation from an MTH dealer.

If you use the Radio Shack batteries, wrap some electrical tape around their metal case prior to installation. The MTH batteries have a plastic cover. Should the battery come loose inside the loco, the metal cover of the Radio Shack battery could short against something.

Good luck!
Roy

[Anonymous]

I've got a couple of protosound 1 engines that have small problems.

The first one is an 0-8-0. Sounds work fine, but there's no sychronized smoke/chuffing(don't know if the engine ever did this) The head light also isn't working. I don't know if the bulb's burnt out or it has something to do with the protosound directional lighting function. If it's burnt how do you replace the bulb?

Second, I've got a sd-60 that comes on with the diesel sounds, but won't run at all. Is that a function of the battery being low on juice? I've tried it with several different transformers with the same response. The funny thing is it was working fine a week ago.

Thanks for your help and Merry Christmas.