Help! Wiring Lionel #154 (three prong) flasher to Fastrack

[Anonymous]

Hey gang,

I was wondering if anyone could describe how I can wire in an old #154 crossing flasher (the one with three wire connects not two) to a fastrack layout....

I have an activator pack setup, I believe that is part of the puzzle....

Any help would be appreciated...I am a newbie so simple explanations/solutions would be helpful...

Thank you!!

[Anonymous]

I'm pretty sure it's outlined in Peter Riddle's book on wiring your Lionel Layout either vol1 or 2. I will look it up and report back in case someone else doesn't post before then. The crossing gate was meant to work with a "contactor", a horrible piece of equipment. The contactor uses weight to close the circuit and activate the accessory. An insulated rail section is more reliable.

[Anonymous]

Thanks ChuckN,

I just wanted to make sure you understood I have the signal flasher #154 and not the crossing gate...I think that is something else.

I don't have either of the books you mention, I'm new to this building it for my son for Christmas....

Thanks again,

Sal

[LS1Heli]

I am curious as well. I got that crappy O gauge out of there and I would like to hook up a postwar 154 highway flasher up to my fastrack as well.

I believe the activation pack is part of it...but need some direction.

Someone out there has done it.

[Anonymous]

Look at the other thread, (BTW, these books are oftenfound at the Public Library)

QUOTE: As stated in the previous post by BigBoy, the original contactor is pretty lame. You can emlate it's function on non-tubular track (like Fast Track) by using insulated track covers. This is outlined in Peter Riddle's Wiring Your Lionel Layout Vol 2, pages 46-52. He also covers a way to use an the strips to activate a real auxiliary flasher. I believe the modern version of the 154 has the blinking circuit in the base and uses a standard conactor to trigger it. This can be easily switched to use an insulated track section for a trigger.

The old style flasher uses binding post 1 to supply power to the accessory. This would go to center rail of track or to the "hot" side of an auxiliary power supply. Binding post 2 and 3 would go to the "track " strips. These are metal foil strips about 1" long and placed on the same outside rail about 1" apart. The foil strips have to be insulated from the actual rail masking tape or electrical tape will probably work. You can get self adheasive copper foil at a doll house shop or a stained glass supply shop. Doll houses use the foil for "electrifying" the house, stained glass uses the foild to wrap the edges of glass before solderig it (Tiffany style lamps).

I'd honetsly recommend getting a modern version of the crossing signal that uses a circuit for flashing.

[Anonymous]

chuckn,

sounds a bit complex..I think you are right, I will need to pick up a modern one...

Thank you for the info!!

-S

[dwiemer]

I mention this on the other post too. I just happen to be reading a article from January 96 CTT and they describe using a relay system that should work well with the fastrack for the 154. I will try to scan the diagram, if I can't, I will give a detailed description.
Dennis

[dwiemer]

OK, reading from the article (I don't want to start problems with posting others work directly). Anyway, the materials as follows:
12 volt DC .1 to 10 second Timer Relay.
12 volt AC double-pole double-throw Relay.
Relay socket
Timer socket
This has the timer circuit for one grade crossing with the flasher and gate, but you can adapt for most set ups.
mount the timer socket onto a piece of plywood. add the two terminal blocks. Next, run a wire from the DC outputs on the transformer to posts nos. 2 and 7 on the relay socket.
solder the 12 volt AC supply wire to the rail. Run the other AC wire to screw B on the relay socket. Run a wire from screw A on the socket to the uninsulated outside rail. Wire screw posts 4 and 6 on the relay socket to each of the tremirminal blocks on the timer board. Then run a wire frim each flashing lamp to screws 7 and 9 on the relay socket. Now hook the third, or common terminal on the flasher to the 12 volt AC power supply on the MRC pack. Complete circuit by running wire from the other side of the AC-power supply back to screw 8 on the timer.
The parts numbers are from a company called "Digi-Key" in MN. PHone [phone]
National Controls CKK-00010-446
Porter & Brumfield KUP11A15-12V
Porter & Brumfield 27E121
Porter & Brumfield 27E122
Let me know if you need the page emailed privately, again, don't want to cause legal problems.
Hope this helps,
Dennis

[1688torpedo]

Hello Scampana! Lionel Makes a section of Fastrack that is compatible with regular O Gauge Track. Your best bet would be to buy a section of this track and connect the Three Clip Lockon for the Highway Flasher to this Track and you're all set.

[dwiemer]

Scampana, Keith, et al., You could also just get one of the new photo sensors that would work just like the lockon, but it would not be realistic. the article described above is for a timed flash sequence.
dennis