Help! Insulated vs Regular Fastrack

[GardenLand]

Does the split rail on the "isolated" activator track section have to be on the outside rail...or can it be on the center track, as one poster has indicated in these posts? I've tried it with the split in the center, using some pieces on hand, but the train stops dead on the connected insulated sections.

[ADCX Rob]

Tutorial HERE.  The same procedure is used for any curve or straight track.

[SantaFe158]

You make them the same way as the straights. Cut or remove the metal jumpers, remove the pins from the rail you want to insulate and grind back the end of the rail a little so it doesn't touch the next section of track.

[Lynwood Guy]

I would like to know how to make an insulated track section for a piece of curved Fastrack.

I know that Lionel make an activation track but it is for straight track. How do you make one for a curved section and what do you insert between the rails? I know they don't make fiber pins for Fastrack.

Thanks.

[Anonymous]

Thanks everyone!!

These were awesome descriptions!!!

I did some tests and found the best for what I need!!

(I wish Lionel could have just told me about removing the little jumper!!)

Happy Holidays!!!

[BR60103]

I just converted a regular Fastrack section to insulated today. My dealer only had regular sections.
I removed the metal tab by bending the 4 tabs up with a small sharp screwdriver, taking out the tab, then bending the tabs back. I think they're strong enough to be bent a couple of times.
I combined this with the activation track pack. The only points to note are that the connecting wires should be on the same side as the rail breaks (and they must both be on the same side).

[Anonymous]

For a layout this small (few straights), you can take the simple approach and use Lionel infra-red controlers, about $25. each.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Allan Miller

From outward appearances, I haven't been able to see any difference between the insulated sections and the regular FasTrack straight sections. About the only way you can readily tell one from the other is from the sticker under the roadbed.

There is a metal jumper connecting the two outer rails on a regular peice of track. Putting one in an insulated block will ground it back to the non insulated rail.

[Anonymous]

The FasTrack insulated section has a tag on the bottom (actually, a sticker) that indicates the insulated rail. If used with an operating accessory--the crossing signals, for example--that insulated section must be placed between the short isolated track sections that come with the accessory. In other words, the lineup might be: isolated section, insulated section, grade crossing, isolated section so a train approaching from the left (in this example) activates the accessory earlier.

Works like a charm. I know, because I installed that configuration myself just a few days ago.

From outward appearances, I haven't been able to see any difference between the insulated sections and the regular FasTrack straight sections. About the only way you can readily tell one from the other is from the sticker under the roadbed.

[Anonymous]

Most FasTrack sections have metal jumpers connecting both outer rails, so no not ANY track between two insulated sections will work unless you remove the metal jumpers on them which is real easy.

First if you haven’t purchased the FasTrack activation track don’t bother, any piece of FasTrack can be used for this.

To make the insulated track flip the track over and bend up two sets of the tabs closest to the end on the rail you want to insulate. Carefully pu***he rails through the roadbed; doing it this way instead of prying it from the top will prevent you from bending the rail. Remove the pin from the rail, cut a small piece of clear plastic slightly larger than the rail and fit it between the rail and the roadbed, pu***he rail back down secure the tabs back and then fold the plastic up and trim it to slightly larger than the profile of the rail. When you butt another piece of track to the plastic it will act as an insulator. Doing it this way lets you convert the track back to normal if you need to.
You could also cut the rail with a dremel tool instead of removing the pin but I suggest pulling the rail away from the roadbed before you cut it to avoid marring the road bed. However this leaves a big ugly gap in the rail and it can't be put back together too easily.

To make a block like this you will need to do this on both ends of an outer rail and also remove the metal jumpers on the underside of all the track in that block. Be sure to connect your ground wire to the outer rail that is not insulated as you will use that rail to ground your accessories when the train enters that block.

If you have purchased the activation track already just remove the metal jumpers in any track you place between the activation track sections to make it as long as you want.

To attach accessories to the insulated rail just bend the tabs up on the rail, wrap a wire around it and bend them back down.

[Brutus]

Fastrack has sections of "insulated track". These sections are made with a break in one rail that is separated by an insulator. This break is sort of in the middle of the section. Depending on how you insert this section into your oval of track, the break is on the left or right side. You should make sure you keep those breaks (insulation points) on the same side. Does that make sense?

With other track types, you put a connector on each rail between the sections. This holds the sections together and provides electrical connectivity. To make an insulated area of track, you use an insulating connector - one that does not conduct electricity. WIth Fastrack, they have a section of track that has the insulator in the middle of one side of track within that section.

To make an oval with the 2 sides insulated from each other, you would put an insulated section on each side of the oval and make sure the insulation points are on the same rail - either the inside rail or the outside rail. This will provide 2 insulated sections of track on that side. This will insulate the 2 ends of the oval (the curved ends) from each other for that track.

If you want to insulate the long sides of the oval, you would have to widen the oval by inserting an insulating section at the top and bottom (in the half circles, at the center between the curved sections.

Now - here is where I think the confusion is coming from: If you look at the Accessory Activator Pack, it appears to include 2 pieces of insulating sections with an "insulated" section of 10 inch track. That 10 inch section, as far as I can see from looking on their website, is insulated because it is placed between the 2 insulating sections! Otherwise, that 10 inch piece is just a regular piece! That's what they are trying to say. Insulated track is just track between insulators. In this case, any track that is in between two insulator sections is insulated from the rest of the track (for one rail).

Does that make sense?

[Anonymous]

Right. I understand how it will work in that sense. The real question is about insulated track. Insulated track is the track between the small sections of track which contain the break in the rail.

Apparently insulated track is different than normal track. You need insulated track for the activation to work, so I am trying to determine if it is possible to convert normal track to insulated track.....

I know its confusing, but here is my plan:

Oval= 4 curved pieces + 2 small activation pices (broken track, the reason for 2 is that one half of the oval will activate some things and the other half will activate others) + 4 curved pieces + 2 small activation pices....

So my curved pieces will need to be insulated track, at least that is how the directions from the activation pack make it sound.....So is it possible to make the normal track insulated? If so, how?

[Brutus]

I'm sure someone here will give you all the really technical information. I believe the center track carries the live power and the 2 outside tracks can act as return lines, completing a circuit. So, if the power from the transformer that drives your train is going to the center rail and returning from the right hand rail, then that is a loop. The train wheels also conduct electricity to the left hand rail. You can insulate the left hand rail in two places on your loop of track - basically this is a break in the left hand metal track that electricity cannot cross. Then, run a wire from this rail to your operating accessory to trigger it. But, as long as at least some of the metal wheels from your train are in either section, the operating accessories associated with that section will be in action. So, if the loco is in section A and the caboose is still in section B, both sets of accessories would be powered.

How did I do guys?

[Anonymous]

Sorry, but I'm a newbie to this stuff....

//question
Can someone explain the mechanical difference between insulated and regular track. I read another posting where it simply sounded like there was an extra bar on the normal track connecting both the outer rails, but I am not sure.

//why
I am trying to figure out if I can convert my existing fastrack to be insulated for activation purposes and this seems to stump the technicians at Lionel...else they want me to buy all new track!!

//background
I basically want to make a small oval (only 2 10 straight pieces) which will activate along the whole curve on either side. That way I can have the train activate some things on 1/2 the circle and other thing on the other half of the circle (2 activation packs used)

Thank you!!