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brass tender almost done!!!

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  • Member since
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  • From: Delray Beach, FL
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brass tender almost done!!!
Posted by andregg1 on Friday, October 21, 2005 9:11 AM
Hi guys
The tender is almost done.
Has Somebody else made a brass model before?
Is realy nice to work with brass.
enjoy the pictures.




Andre.
  • Member since
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  • From: North Texas
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Posted by wrmcclellan on Friday, October 21, 2005 9:20 AM
Nice!

Regards, Roy

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Posted by FJ and G on Friday, October 21, 2005 9:37 AM
Andre,

Can you share with us your construction techniques (riveting; soldering, how you got the dimensions, etc).

While your project is 1st rate, some of us would like to copy cat you. :-)
  • Member since
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  • From: New England
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Posted by Jumijo on Friday, October 21, 2005 9:45 AM
Absolutely amazing work! What are you putting it behind?

Thanks for sharing these photos.
Jim

Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale

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Posted by laz 57 on Friday, October 21, 2005 10:16 AM
There's nothing like a "tender behind"
laz57
  There's a race of men that don't fit in, A race that can't stay still; Robert Service. TCA 03-55991
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Posted by FJ and G on Saturday, October 22, 2005 5:24 AM
I'll try to be a bit more specific.

1. What are you using to cut your brass? I have Right, Left and Straight Sears tinsnips that cut well but leave these baked pie design edges on the metal.

2. What thickness of brass did you use. Obviously, the thicker the more durable but the thinner the easier it is to work.

3. Are you punching your rivets with a nail or punch?

4. What are you using for a heat sink so that the rest of the solder on the model melt?

Thanks, Andre. Worth a bump up.
  • Member since
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  • From: Delray Beach, FL
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Posted by andregg1 on Saturday, October 22, 2005 8:20 AM
Hi to all.
I am very glad to share my work with you.
for cutting I used a papar gullotine.(see picture)

tha brass use is 0.012. I use brass because is easy to cut, insted a copper sheet.
"the rivets" maybe is a secret, but I don't like secrets. for riveting (dummy) I use a small custom machine (see picture) is a gear that the gap between tooth (i don't know the specific anme)must be proportional to the scale.


For solder I use a common pencil solder 40 watts max. If yuo use biger than 40 watts you can melt the rest of the work.
liquid flux for clean.
and the procedure is:
When the solder is hot you apply the temperature in the zone that you want for few seconds, if the result is bad solder, never try again because the body start to be warm and if you try again, you increase the temp. in other zone.
if the firs solder is wrong clean again and try again.
for best result, all surface must to be clean, pencil solder hot and clean.
how clen the solder. soak cotton cloth in water.
Another important think is the pencil point size the biger for gross work smaller for a fine work.
David a hope that is information will be useful .
Andre.
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Posted by FJ and G on Saturday, October 22, 2005 9:40 AM
thanks, Andre, your work is very inspirational. I eventually want to do a lot of stuff like you're doing since I'll be putting the 3-rail stuff in the garden. Structures and trains made in brass (or copper) stand up much better to the elements and don't rust.

Never saw such a rivet tool before.

Appears you used wood forms in which to bend the brass around (or it's attached to something). IMO the thicker gauge stuff could just stand on its own.

I myself have used copper by banging out copper plumbing pipe with a hammer. That stuff is pretty thick. Somewhere in the forum are photos of targeted switch stands that I built with this method that are functioning. I'm guessing that brass is a bit stronger than copper tho.

Anyway, I know you are experiencing much joy at doing your project.
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Delray Beach, FL
  • 311 posts
Posted by andregg1 on Saturday, October 22, 2005 9:48 AM
Hi
About copper and brass. Brass in softer than copper sheep, but if you warm the copper sheet may be will be softer than brass but too much soft you can't work
the brass sheet is better.
can you understand me what I'm trying to say?
Andre.
QUOTE: Originally posted by FJ and G

thanks, Andre, your work is very inspirational. I eventually want to do a lot of stuff like you're doing since I'll be putting the 3-rail stuff in the garden. Structures and trains made in brass (or copper) stand up much better to the elements and don't rust.

Never saw such a rivet tool before.

Appears you used wood forms in which to bend the brass around (or it's attached to something). IMO the thicker gauge stuff could just stand on its own.

I myself have used copper by banging out copper plumbing pipe with a hammer. That stuff is pretty thick. Somewhere in the forum are photos of targeted switch stands that I built with this method that are functioning. I'm guessing that brass is a bit stronger than copper tho.

Anyway, I know you are experiencing much joy at doing your project.

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