Which track for O Gauge layout?

[lionelsoni]

Don't get confused between radius and diameter. Most of the toy-train track is described in terms of diameter. But, except for fastrack, it is the diameter to the ends of the ties, not to the center rail. And the ties are not all the same length; and the numbers are rounded to the nearest inch.

For example, O27 is based on a 12.5-inch radius to the center rail. So the nominal diameter is 25 inches, plus 2 inches for the tie length. The switch design determines the length of the straight section, which is the length needed to construct a passing siding without cutting track. It is the radius divided by the square-root of 2, which leads to the unround number 8.839 inches, often called 8 7/8.

What is nowadays called O31 (sometimes O30) is based on a straight section of exactly 10 inches, which makes the radius 14.142 inches, the diameter 28.284 inches plus the length of the ties, which is 2.25 inches for O31, or 30.534 inches, rounded to 31 inches for the nominal diameter.

Then there is Marx O34.

[marxalot]

I was using my RR Track software trying to modify a layout plan from CTT for my space. I have two questions from this endeavor:

1. Would it be okay to use a Curtis 31 turnout and couple a piece of 32" radius Gargraves track to this? It sounds kind of funky to me but the Curtis switches are several inches shorter and this allowed me to fit things together better.............. at least on the computer screen.
2. Where are Curtis switches available? I haven't found any place selling them, can't seem to get a price of them via their homepage and didn't have a telephone call returned.............. just wondering........

And finally a rookies observation: man there are lot of different track systems with slightly different radius curves out there! Atlas at 36", Fast Track at 36"; Gargraves has 32" and 42" plus but then doesn't have anything but turnouts with a 42" radius, Ross with 31" etc. Makes for a lot of flexibility no doubt!

Thanks for your time.

Jim

[Buckeye Riveter]

Check out this post from last week.

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45611

[Anonymous]

the curtiss/ross switches tend to be in high demand, otherwise they would be cheaper. i got some once at a good price, but i just happened to be in the right place at the right time.

you should buy yours now, instead of buying any others first before you end up switching back. gargraves is good for a permanent setup. i like the old lionel 027 stuff myself (except for the switches).

[IronHoarse]

I believe you should use what pleases you the most. I decided to go with Fastrack because I like it. It works for me. Whatever you choose just remember that the most important thing is to have fun!

[poppyl]

I'm partial to Gargraves flextrack and Ross switches but that's what worked in my situation with weird curves, prototypical operation and the lower profile that the GG track afforded. Diversity in the use of track is one of the things that makes this hobby interesting.

Poppyl

[Roger Bielen]

James - it all depends on the effect you want to achieve, traditional, high-rail, or somewhere in between. I choose the in between, semi-high rail, and used Gargraves flextrack due to my need for some freeform curves that couldn't easily be done with fixed track. I also used Ross switches, a bit pricey, but flawless and a lot of variety.

Decent prices on Gargraves flextrack can be found by checking the ads in CTT, or I'm sure other members can make recommendations. Ross switches must be price controlled, I never did find anyone discounting them when I was buying.

[overall]

I have had good luck with Atlas O. All my trains negotiate their turnouts without derailing.

George

[jonadel]

The kind of track you choose really depends on who you want to please, yourself or your neighbor the rivet counter. It's all good, some better than others but after all they are just toys.

Jon

http://jands.logicalgeek.com

[dandatrainman]

i work at a large train store and find fastrack to be very easy to use. the new switches ar awesome! i'm no expert, but i'm told that the ties on fastrack are actualy the most prototypical of "all" the systems as far as look and spacing. each piece has connectors on the bottom so any track can have wires attached and then run them through a hole right under that piece!, you'll never see the wires! check it out!!!

[spankybird]

One of my friends web pages has a lot of good links in it. Check it out

http://r_harrison.tripod.com/Trains/Train_Room.html

(he lives about 5 miles from me)

also check out my web pages (click on the web icon and also the link below my pic)

Thor has a lot of good track plans.

http://thortrains.hypermart.net

tom

[Anonymous]

Spankybird, you could save me a lot of work if I could just come over a get your layout [:D]

That is about what I'm thinking, I also actually have two sets of shelving running around the walls, the lower is 42" high, the upper is about 18" above that. I have F3s and do want to use magna traction as I'm considering doing a big long upward climb then a 16 ft. straight run downhill at Mach5 speeds.

Can you suggest any sources for ideas?

[spankybird]

I am with Big-Boy. I use Lionel (and some K-line) 027 tube track. When I built my layout, MTH was just coming out with their track and not all of it was available.

One thing to consider, do you have or our you planning on running any engines with Magne-Traction. If so, be sure to look for a steel rail. (Lionel, K-line, or Gargraves).

Your layout will be about the same size as mine

click on the pic to enlarge it.

tom

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Traditional track will always work, and is the least expensive track on the market. Dress it up with extra ties and ballast, and it looks just fine.

A lot of people like Lionel's new integral roadbed track called FasTrack. I find it to be one of the most expensive systems out there, and am not particularly fond of it.

There are a lot of other options available. How large of a layout are you planning, and will it be permenant?

I've got a 12 x 16 room, am thinking of building it in a "U" against the outer three walls. It probably will be permenant. The shelves/tables are already built, they're built to the studs in the room. I need to find some books, or mags, to get some ideas from. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous]

Atlas, if you're seeking a realistic appearance and don't mind adding roadbed and ballast to enhance the realism (and Atlas is widely available at many/most well-stocked hobby shops).

Lionel FasTrack if you want a sturdy system with built-in roadbed to make track-laying fast and easy, without the most prototypical look (also appears to be widely available).

But if you have a lot of something else already available, why not just use it?

[Big_Boy_4005]

Traditional track will always work, and is the least expensive track on the market. Dress it up with extra ties and ballast, and it looks just fine.

A lot of people like Lionel's new integral roadbed track called FasTrack. I find it to be one of the most expensive systems out there, and am not particularly fond of it.

There are a lot of other options available. How large of a layout are you planning, and will it be permenant?

[Anonymous]

I'm going to be designing my layout and was wondering what you guys think of using the original Lionel 3 rail, or do you prefer some other type.

What is the best/most popular track nowdays?

I've got scads of Lionel track, but will consider changing over if it's worthwhile.