table legs, what to use and how to mount???

[trigtrax]

This would have to be done on two sides of each leg. I would use a 45-degree angle, not 60 degrees, to get the most good out of each brace.

LOL!! The reason I suggested 60 degree trusses ( Besides the fact that my bridges use them [^] ) is that they provide for a ~9 :5 ratio of leg length to horizontal frame length.. The user is 6'3" and needs to crawl under the table for wiring and such [banghead]
A 45 degree truss with 4' leg spacing is strong enough but leaves 24 inches of leg unreinforced. But like I said in my original post I get a bit crazy when it comes to construction [:D]

[Buckeye Riveter]

The following photo shows the legs for a portable layout from a club in Pittsburg.

They connected it at the top by using blocks made of 2x4s. The vertical pvc pipe is inserted into a hole drilled in the blocks. They had some good reasons for doing it this way and one of them was the availability of one of their memebers to procure cheap pvc pipe. They also wanted all the legs to be interchangable for ease of setup at shows.

Now that I have posted this photo, I really don't think their system is optimum if you must purchase materials. For my own layout, dimensions 4ft by 16ft, or 64 square feet, it is supported by four 2x2s with knee braces and X bracing. The knee braces are connected to the 2x2s with gussets.

[lionelsoni]

Here's some information that I hope will be helpful:

Assuming that the joint between the leg and the table is completely rigid, the deflection of a leg, whether wood, metal, or PVC is proportional to the cube of its height. So tables get wobbly pretty fast as they get taller. A 38-inch table, for example, is about twice as wobbly as a 30-inch table.

Legs get stiffer as they get thicker. For schedule-40 PVC in particular, the relative stiffness for likely nominal diameters is

1................1
1 1/4.........1.125
1 1/2.........2.172
2................3.527
3..............10.678
4..............19.033
6..............47.766

[lionelsoni]

If I understand trigtrax's explanation, what he means is to attach a diagonal brace (his "truss") between the outside (not the inside, as he says) surface of the framing and to 3/4-inch blocking (his "batten") on the leg. The blocking is to space the lower end of the brace out so that it is parallel to the front of the framing.

This would have to be done on two sides of each leg. I would use a 45-degree angle, not 60 degrees, to get the most good out of each brace.

I haven't seen anything, including the pipe flanges, that I think can compete with my eyebolt scheme for rigidity and simplicity. The only drawback to it that I have noticed is the nuts on the top of the table. My intention is to cover them with scenery, if I ever get any scenery built. The nuts could also be recessed with a little extra trouble.

[Big_Boy_4005]

I only use 2x4's for legs, no bracing or anything, but my situation doesn't require it, because everything is tied together, and attached to the walls. Nothing moves. There are just a couple of drywall screws attaching each one to the framework.

You can see a lot of legs in the photo below.

[trigtrax]

I under stand the truss use, but kind of lost with the batten? can you help with maybe
a pic of some sort.

Sorry about pictures, I'm digitally challanged.
If the 2x4 is bolted inside the corner of your frame then the frame protrudes 3/4 inch out. The batten is attached 3/4 in from the edge of the leg so that the truss lies flat when screwed to both parts. a batten is just a short 1x1 or 1 x2 piece of wood.
If you attempt to screw the truss directly to the leg you'll go in at an angle and split the grain with the first bump.

[Anonymous]

Opps, shoudl have read:

QUOTE: Originally posted by trigtrax

1x2 will work fine as the truss will be used for both tension and compression forces when you accidently kick a leg. The deal is use two screws to attach the truss to the inside of your framing at a 60 degree angle and a single screw to a batten screwed 3/4 inch in from the front face of each leg.

I under stand the truss use, but kind of lost with the batten? can you help with maybe
a pic of some sort.

Another idea i came up with, using 3" pcv pipe and bolt on flange to the bottom of the
ply and another flange for the foot. How sturdy would this set up?

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by trigtrax

2 x4 legs will do fine ( on my own boards I used 4 x 4 legs but I'm a little crazy about construction). You can bolt them into corners of your 1x3 framing, I suggest through bolting with 1/4 carriage bolts and fender washers so you don't depend on the screws holding in New Growth Wood ( there's a whole other issue involving growth rates and tree rings per inch, etc.,etc.) Then you'll need to brace the legs with an angular truss. 1x2 will work fine as the truss will be used for both tension and compression forces when you accidently kick a leg. The deal is use two screws to attach the truss to the inside of your framing at a 60 degree angle and a single screw to a batten screwed 3/4 inch in from the front face of each leg.
Your 1 x3 framing should be laid out on 16 inch centers and one leg every 4 ft will provide a very sturdy structure. Strong enough for you to tap dance across [:D]

[cnw1995]

I have also used folding table legs -with externders and adjustable bases, so it could be taller. Even easier - I've also a table with folding legs itself - placed the layout right a top it.

[Dr. John]

I have use folding banquet table legs for my former semi-portable layout with good success, although the height was kind of low. The club I belonged too in Mobile used PVC pipe, like Bob mentioned. The difference was they used screw on flange plates. I think Bob's method would be sturdier.

You can't beat the good 'ol 2x4 for sturdiness. Just make sure they have proper diagonal bracing to avoid swaying. I prefer screws or bolts to attach legs to benchwork. If you use screws, avoid using drywall screws for leg attachements. Drywall screws can break with lateral pressure.

[laz 57]

You can nail or screw two of you 2x4s together for extra strength, if your gonna be crawling around on top of your layout. If not the 2x4s screwed into the side of the frame work is fine.
laz57

[trigtrax]

2 x4 legs will do fine ( on my own boards I used 4 x 4 legs but I'm a little crazy about construction). You can bolt them into corners of your 1x3 framing, I suggest through bolting with 1/4 carriage bolts and fender washers so you don't depend on the screws holding in New Growth Wood ( there's a whole other issue involving growth rates and tree rings per inch, etc.,etc.) Then you'll need to brace the legs with an angular truss. 1x2 will work fine as the truss will be used for both tension and compression forces when you accidently kick a leg. The deal is use two screws to attach the truss to the inside of your framing at a 60 degree angle and a single screw to a batten screwed 3/4 inch in from the front face of each leg.
Your 1 x3 framing should be laid out on 16 inch centers and one leg every 4 ft will provide a very sturdy structure. Strong enough for you to tap dance across [:D]

[Anonymous]

yo bob i like that idea about p.v.c/ pipe. wish ii heard that a couple of years ago. i used 1x3 doubled on the bottom half and angled on the top to support the weigt and support a shelf. my layout not finished is made witn 1x3's topped with 3" insulation board. good idea bob dr dan

'

[lionelsoni]

Legs should be exactly long enough to reach to the floor.

But seriously, folks, I again recommend PVC pipe, the taller the table, the larger the diameter, with a horizontal bolt through the top of the pipe and through the eye of an eyebolt with its tail up through the table top and a washer and nut pulling it up tight.

[Anonymous]

My table top is 1/2 birch ply with 1x3 latter frame.
What is the best size for legs (i have a bunch of 2x4's that are cut to 36")
I need a good mount and brace system also.

Any Pics on legs?