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What type of materials do you use for roads?

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Posted by eZAK on Wednesday, October 12, 2005 9:46 AM
OR,
You can use black sand -blasting crystals![:)]



Available at home centers for about $6 for 25#'s.
Spread like ballast then cover with diluted white glue.
Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew!</font id="size2"> Pat Zak</font id="size3">
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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 12, 2005 4:16 AM
Just checkin things out guys and gals, some great ideas out there!. Ret. Army, currently contracting in Iraq, Will retire again soon and have always loved trains, so why not, gotta do something.
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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 10:34 AM
Bob,

I've noticed that asphalts look a bit different, esp. regarding color due to dust settle, vice the new shiny tar looking stuff.

Also the texture is different. For instance road texture seems course and driveway asphalt seems like less aggregates.

I've duplicated the various asphalts simply by using different grain sizes of sand.

Also, asphalt edging is typically ragged and not as straight as concrete, which uses wood forms. Clumps of asphalt sometimes litter the shoulder.

When I do edging on my driveway, the edger often kicks up pieces of asphalt, making a mess and dinging the ole truck.
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Posted by lionelsoni on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:54 AM
I just checked some asphalt. The irregularities were at most 1/4 inch, valley-to-peak, and rounded--not at all sharp. This would be about 5 mils in O scale, which is not very rough.

Bob Nelson

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Posted by laz 57 on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 9:21 AM
220 to 400 grit sandpaper, little bit of rubber cement and waya! roads.
laz57
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 11, 2005 6:34 AM
yo guys all are great but like most off railroad modeling the beauty lies in the eye of the beholder. personally the best one is roofing felt. now i'm new to this but i like the weathered look and the not so mooth finish,you know frost heaves,cracks ect. so i'try it and let you know about it dr dan
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Posted by SPFan on Sunday, October 9, 2005 7:34 AM
When I detailed my portable modules I used a mix of black and white latex paint. I did not really mix the paint as I wanted mottled grey appearance to simulate concrete. Then I scored expansion joints in the wood. The only problem is the plywood grain is evident if you are looking for it. When I do more modules I will first lay down a thin layer of drywall joint compound and sand it smooth. You don't really need much texture unless you are modeling a dirt or gravel road.

Pete
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Posted by 3railguy on Sunday, October 9, 2005 12:15 AM
Using instructions in a book by Dave Frary, I use Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty and stain it with Higgins ink diluted with water. This gives it a very realistic color and the grain of Durhams is realistic too. It doesn't shrink or crack and can be applied in any thickness you want. It is available in home centers and is inexpensive.
John Long Give me Magnetraction or give me Death.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 8, 2005 5:25 PM
Thanks, you've given me a lot to think about!

Mike
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 6, 2005 9:38 PM
for me roads are too space consuming and labor intensive. i chose to model 19th century western railroads where wagon trails and paths were the rule. so much easier.
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Posted by FJ and G on Thursday, October 6, 2005 12:53 PM
OK, there are (shown from top to bottom), dirt, asphalt, and concrete pavements.

For dirt roads, I use clay, found at construction sites in my area.

For asphalt, I lay sand down, affix with diluted wood glue, and paint with glossy black. Friends are always surprised that it looks and feels like the real deal.

For concrete, I lay a very thin coating of drywall mud (joint compound) over Styrofoam. It is thin so it won't crack, although cracks can be a good thing. Non-cracking material to use would be water putty. I mix up a batch of white and add just a bit of black latex until I get the desired color, then, I may add some patches or off coloring.

The KEY is to take you digital camera out and photograph a ton of roads. That's what I did. In fact, that's what I do for all my projects.







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Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 8:10 PM
I tried black poster board and used trunk paint on it. It was ok but then more recently I taped of the roads and sprayed the table with this ceramic texture paint and I like that, it looked like tar and gravel to which I applied a litt le black craft paint with a stiff brush like for wall stippling on the house shows on cable TV. looked ok once I get a technique down.
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Posted by ChiefEagles on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 9:03 AM
I see someone said roof flet. Got tons of that form sevral roof ing jobs I've done. HUMMM. Easy to cut.

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Posted by cnw1995 on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 8:28 AM
I use grey and black roofing shingles - they are easy to cut into any shape - curves, turn offs - and are heavy enough to stay put where they are placed on the layout without glue or tacking down. They look great. I also use 'em for airport runways -

Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.

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Posted by Dr. John on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 8:07 AM
Sheet cork can be cut easily and painted an asphalt color (I like to use Grimy Black). It is inexpensive and durable and takes paint well. I start with a paper template of the areas I want roads or parking lots, cut out cork with the template, glue it to the surface with yellow carpenters glue, paint and add stripes (drafting tape or paint pen).
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Posted by Roger Bielen on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 9:03 PM
I cut my main roads from 1/8" masonite and painted to suite, secondary painted onto the deck, some with gravel added. I used pin striping tape for lines and coated over with a clear polyurethane to keep from lifting with time.

There have been many suggestions as to what to use from linolium, poster paper, black foam core art board, poured plaster, shingles, to you name it. It all depends on how much time, and/or money, you want to spend and how good your imagination is.
Roger B.
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Posted by 02camaro on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 6:46 PM
This might be a bit fragile for 7-10 year olds, but I use Rust-oleum american accents stone creations spray paint over 1/8" thick masonite strips. Gives the roads a nice textured, pebbly finish.
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Posted by Sturgeon-Phish on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 6:25 PM
Black foam board
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Posted by ed11670 on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 6:22 PM
I use roofing felt..and paint pens, white and yellow...
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Posted by Buckeye Riveter on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 6:06 PM
I saw something on a G Scale Garden Railroad that was used to make a road and it was not anything I had ever consider before. They used pieces of black rubber pond liner cut to look like a road.

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Posted by jwse30 on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 3:26 PM
I've used Golden's Extra Coarse Pumice Gel mixed with grey paint for roads on my last two layouts. An art supply store should have it or something similiar. If that's not your cup of tea, or if it can't be found locally, I'd say add a tablespoon or so of fine sand to some paint to give the road some texture. (this also prevents cars from rolling on their own if the road isn't level).

I'm thinking my next layout may use a different road material. I'm thinking of using roofing starter strip. This is basiclly shingle material 5.5" wide by 25' long. It has an advesive back, so it should be peel and stick, though I'd imagine making curved roads out of it may be a challenge. I would also think that if the 7 to 10 year olds were VERY rough around it, they could end up with a bit of road rash.

Those are the two ideas I've got. Next?

J White
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What type of materials do you use for roads?
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 4, 2005 2:37 PM
I'm getting ready to lay roads on my layout and I'm not sure what type of material to use. I'd like to use something that is durable and can stand up to 7-10 years olds playing with it, but would like it to look somewhat realistic.

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