TRAIN TABLE ACCESS HATCHES

[Anonymous]

Thanks to all for the useful advice. I am a CTT subscriber and will be looking forward to the article in the November issue.

Bill Hudson

[Anonymous]

I ran sized down 4*8's along 15 feet of wall but left exactly 1 foot of space between the wall and the edge of the tabletop. This allowed me to access the entire back of the layout for track work and other project related work. When finshed, I ran about 13 feet of mountains over that open space using cross supports from the table to the wall, thus taking up almost none of my tabletop which I needed for my track plan.

A portion of the back mountain range is removable if I need to re-enter the back of the layout for repairs. Two other circular access panels were cut for remaining access to the middle of the layout. Worked out well for my needs.

[Buckeye Riveter]

And I need to build one, too!!!

[Anonymous]

In addition to the practical ideas above, if you are going to have an internal walkway inside the 8x20 to enable reaching components and structures, one useful and proven method of entry is a "dropgate" in the right-of-way/roadbed. Swings down on a piano hinge which is very stable and allows no rail mis-alignment. Fastens in place [on door strikes/keepers] with spring-loaded Transome Catches which are easily released via a cable/handle arrangement under the right-of-way.
I have a similar access problem so I built a dropgate in 2001 under my dual mainline to facilitate access and reach! The idea came from Jim Barrett's article in OGR RUN #171. Go to about midway of page 9 in the OGR Photo Gallery and you can view "Skatner's" pictures of his dropgate installation.

[csxt30]

Well, hold onto your hats for this one ! I just checked my emails & CTT's Nov. issue is going to have coverage on Hatches ! I thought that was pretty neat ! I don't have any access hatches, but I do have Duck Unders ! And to tell you the truth, I don't think anyone likes them, except me. Oh,well, thanks, John

[ChiefEagles]

Timely question. Just got an advance preview by email of the NOV CTT. Guess what one of the main topics is? You guessed it. Are you signed up for the CTT email newsletter? Do you have a subscription to CTT? Get magazine.

[selector]

I placed mine in the middle of my lake. I cut the 5/8" plywood early in the construction, and used a sabre saw to make the hole shaped the way I wanted. Then, under the edges of the hole, I glued and screwed three short pieces of scrap plywood to extend about 3/4" past the edge of the hole. The plug that I had cut out sits back down into the hole, but resting on those pieces. It is very solid and I can indeed walk on it....if I ever have to. When I added the 'water', I did the plug as a piece, and the rest of the lake as another, using painters tape as a dam, and pouring a two-part epoxy.

The approach I describe is simple, cheap, and effective.

[ChiefEagles]

Do the scene over a hatch as a module. I had one with a mountain top [hydrocal] that lifted out. Did the bottom portion first. Let it sit up. Then did top portion and used old plastic grocery bags to fit in the "joint" and down the lower protion to prevent bonding. Several books on this hobby cover that subject. Be as creative as you want.

[Anonymous]

Is there any reference material available covering construction of access hatches? I am not one who likes to reinvent the wheel. Only rarely in CLASSICTOY TRAINS MAGAZINE has there even been a mention of an access hatch. Any ideas, references, etc. on this subject would be greatly appreciated. I am planning an 8' deep by 20' long table that, due to room considerations, must be pushed against the wall. One can hardly reach over a 4' wide expanse. Reaching over an 8' table is obviously out of the question.

Thanks.

William J. Hudson