Ross steel rails vs. Gargraves stainless steel

[3railguy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by TomUP3985

Gargraves Stainless Steel rail is a bear to solder to. The solid steel rail should be easier to solder to then stainless. I was surprised no one mentioned that?

Yes, stainless GG is a pain to solder. Gargraves makes metal tabs that slip into the channel under the rail for making electrical connections. That is what people normally use. Gargraves tinplated rail is hollow and is much easier to solder. Solid rail is more difficult because of the mass. It takes longer to heat up and in the case with Atlas, if you're not careful, you could melt the plastic ties.

[Anonymous]

Gargraves Stainless Steel rail is a bear to solder to. The solid steel rail should be easier to solder to then stainless. I was surprised no one mentioned that?

[3railguy]

QUOTE: As you know, drywall compound contains a fair amount of water. On Sunday, I went to check out the layout and the rails (0-27) had partially rusted!

It means you need more ventilation. You face damaging more than your rail letting that moisture hover around the room. Go to Walmart and get two window fans. They are cheap. Set one in an open window or entry door to the room blowing out. Set the other next to your work. Leave them running until everything is fully curred.

GG stainless is designed for outdoors and yes, it does not work with magnetraction.

Tinplated rail does have some resistance to humidity. For indoors, if you have enough humidity to corrode tinplated rail inside or out, you are facing much more damage than to the rail. The trains themselves become victims. Your train wheels, couplers, trim, stamped frames, etc. will corrode. It turns postwar boilers white. dust on plastic turns to mildew, decaying the paint. It means you need to get or add a second or third dehumidifer.

[Anonymous]

Hey Roy - I'm actually a transplanted Gopher!!!! - and to all you guys, thanks - Your comments and help are almost as much fun as actually running the trains!! I love it..

[FJ and G]

Roy,

Haven't gotten that far yet; working on the indoor layout. On Saturday, I created my harbor track and stuck some rails in drywall compound (to simulate rails going through asphalt).

As you know, drywall compound contains a fair amount of water. On Sunday, I went to check out the layout and the rails (0-27) had partially rusted!

[underworld]

My only GarGraves experience is with their tinplate...and only inside. It is nice track though.

underworld

[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

[wrmcclellan]

OK - another texxun! Welcome texxn22!

This means the Ohio gang will have to recruit another 10 buckeyes!

Dave and texxn - I heartily agree, stainless is the way to go for outdoors.

BTW Dave - last year you were going to do a test with a piece of tinplate track left outdoors. Did you ever do that and what was your result?

Regards,
Roy

[spankybird]

There are some people who love to run O gauge outside. That is way GG offers Stainless Steel track.

Here is a link for you

www.trainweb.org/oscaleoutdoors

tom

[Anonymous]

It won't take much humidity to start corroding standard timplate track. I'd actually worry more about corrosion inside the track at the track pins. Surface rust can be polished off. Taking apart the track to "fix" joints isn't much fun.

If you want to run outside, use nickel silver or stainless steel track. BTW, NickelSilver does oxidize (as does the tinplate on tinplated track), it's just that these oxides can conduct electricity.

I haven't seen any Gargraves or Atlas stainless to test for magnetraction. Some stainless steel forumulations have very good magnetic properties and some are almost "non" magnetic.

[Anonymous]

this may be off the wall, but the conversation about GarGraves and Stainless Steel re-kindles a question I've had for years. Here in Texas, homes don't have basements, and those built in the last 20 years, don't have a lot of other room for "O" gauge layouts - so - Anybody tried Lionel (or MTH) 3-rail outdoors??? - My trains are all post war, and I realize the necessity of keeping them out of the elements when not running, but I really would like to see my F-3 A-B-B and A-B-A lashups with 8-10 of the "Silver" series Pass cars in tow around some very wide curves out the open where there's space for it - just wistfull dreaming on a slow saturday - my alternative is my family room 13x12 on a couple of levels - but one of my proudest assemblies is a virtually complete Empire Builder pass set (including the later-issued full-lengthDome) I couldn't afford the F-units but I stretched history and have the 9 cars fronted by a pretty decent EP-5 in the Green and gold livery - Just need to get around to Sal Olsen someday and get the pantograph assemblies for it...-Can you imagine this train, "under wire" in the back yard between the Cucumbers and the Squash???
Thanks guys - love this site
-***

[Big_Boy_4005]

Gargraves supplies Ross with rail. I recently called and ordered some for hand laying switches. If you aren't using it outdoors, there's no reason for stainless.

[FJ and G]

Browsing Feb05 CTT noticed side-by-side ads on the same page of Ross steel rails and another ad for GG stainless steel (do these companies have a symbiotic relationship?).

Why the different materials?

I'll hazard a few wild guesses.

Steel has better conductivity properties and works with magnetraction.

Stainless steel better resists rust.

If I had my druthers, I'd vote for stainless steel.