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Atlas O track

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Atlas O track
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 9, 2005 6:56 PM
Does anyone have any big problems with Atlas O track, i recently decided that i'd be building in that style of track because it looks more realistic, will Atlas O track run MTH, Lionel, K-line etc. locos, frieght, etc. fine, are there any know problems, will be ordering track soon and would like to hear any complaints or compliments to the Atlas track.

thanks!

Bob
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 9, 2005 7:47 PM
Hi Bob,

I use it, and its great. Just some run a bright boy or a ruff peice to take a little black off the center so it conducts better.
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Posted by tmcc man on Tuesday, August 9, 2005 8:10 PM
i have never heard of a problem with it, and you might want to think of O36 with the atlas because if you buy one of their engines, they require O36 curves, except for their new trainman line which requires only O31
Colin from prr.railfan.net
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 9, 2005 8:18 PM
My entire layout is designed in O-36, and O-54 for a reverse direction siding.
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Posted by tmcc man on Tuesday, August 9, 2005 8:35 PM
i am converting to O36 for some Atlas models i plan to buy mainly the GP38, the RS1, GP9,and the C424, and a C425.
Colin from prr.railfan.net
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Posted by ben10ben on Tuesday, August 9, 2005 8:44 PM
I've been kicking around a few sections of it for several months. I bought two curves and two straights as a possible consideration for my layout, and was sufficiently impressed that I'm going to buy enough to make a small oval for trying out the running qualities of the track.

By the way, there's a pretty good chance that models designated O-36 will run on O31. Check magazine reviews or ask on the forum before you buy, but most will confirm that the models you are interested in will work.
Ben TCA 09-63474
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, August 9, 2005 8:57 PM
Atlas O is my preferred track in O gauge. I don't buy anything else these days. All of my locomotives are on the smallish size, so I never have any worries about minimum radius and such. I have all makes of trains, and Atlas O handles all of them equally well.
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Posted by 4kitties on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 11:12 AM
I've been using Atlas O track since 1999 with no problems other than the continuity issue through some of the early track switches, and I easily fixed that by jumpering around the problem. About a year ago I replaced all of my rail joiners with the re-designed, heavier ones with the dimples on the bottom and my trains run totally reliably in conventional, TMCC, and DCS modes. I would definitely use Atlas O track again if I had it to do over. My only gripe would be that it's hard to bend the flextrack and even harder to keep it in position while you fasten it down, but in my experience, once it's laid, it's trouble-free.
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Posted by FJ and G on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 12:21 PM
For my planned outdoor layout, I'm going w/Atlas. I need to find out how their turnouts hold up in the rain, though
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 11, 2005 7:38 PM
I also chose Atlas for its realistic appearance. Hoping to one day run some large locomotives I used their 072 curves as my minimum radius throughout. Initially I chose to used their #5 switches, again for the realistic look. I found all my current 027 locos would not cross over the frogs of the #5 switches at realistic speeds without tripping the E unit, effectively stalling the loco. Atlas does give you warning of this...once you've bought the switch and read the instructions. I've since rigged one loco with an extra power pickup and another with a wire to it's whistle tender pickup and both cross through the switches flawlessly. Atlas' regular 072 switches do not exhibit this problem. Another word of caution on Atlas switches. Prewar stamped tinplate wheels with deep flanges will not pass over Atlas switches without interferance and likely derailment. Another problem was with their flex track. It was difficult to connect two pieces together in a continuous curve and keep the connection from kinking...even with all the extra screw holes offered on the flex track. For this reason I used their curved sections. Scincerely though, I'm a lot more pleased with the track than this sounds. It looks and performs great!

Bruce Webster
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 11, 2005 9:09 PM
Should I switch my O54 switches with O 72 than?
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 11, 2005 10:47 PM
Should I switch my O54 switches with O 72 than?

I see no reason to switch switches....er...turnouts. The problem I pointed out only occurs on the Atlas #5 and I assume their #7.5 High Speed turnouts. These longer turnouts have a longer open gap between their center rails near the frog. This gap will cut power to locomotives with closely spaced power pickups unless of course you race the engine over them. The one 072 turnout I have on my layout doesn't exhibit this problem and I'm sure the smaller 054 and 036 turnouts should also work fine with closely spaced power pickups. In retrospect another option you might chose is Altas solid steel track if you are running Lionel Magnitraction engines and have graded roadbed.

Bruce Webster
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Posted by eZAK on Friday, August 12, 2005 10:33 AM
Sure,
After you get done scraping the black off the top of the center rail and running power to each section,

It will run just fine! [rolleyes][xx(]
Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew!</font id="size2"> Pat Zak</font id="size3">
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Posted by marxalot on Friday, August 19, 2005 2:28 PM
Hello,

I'm considering using Atlas track for my first 0/027 gauge layout since the 1950's. While I will run some new equipment I have quite a bit of old Marx to consider. Has anyone used this track with older Marx equipment? Were slipping wheels an issue? I understand that the new track with its more square profile can have more slippage than the original tubular style. But I'm wondering if the smaller size of the Atlas might reduce this?

Thanks for your input. I have been around for awhile with another name that had nothing to do with trains, which was recently changed. And I'm not a Marx nut, just have more of that than anything else and was given that as a first train way back when. But I sure still do remember my best friend's "father's" Lionel GG-1. What an engine that was!

('[8D]')
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 20, 2005 9:04 AM
I spent over 2500.00 $ on Atlas track and switches for my first layout. I tore it down because of some changes I wanted to make. I also switched to Gargraves track and Ross switches for my redesign. Suffice to say I am personally MUCH happier with the performance of this setup versus the Atlas.
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 20, 2005 9:23 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by eZAK

Sure,
After you get done scraping the black off the top of the center rail and running power to each section,

It will run just fine! [rolleyes][xx(]


As far as I'm concerned, any track system with blackened center rail needs to have the black coating removed from the railhead of that center rail. A very simple process that takes just a few seconds per section (I use a large track-cleaning eraser for this). No big deal at all--even for a large layout.

As for running power to each section: Nonsense! there's no need for that at all, and anyone who tells you different is simply blowing smoke. I have never used--or needed--any more than one or two track-to-transformer connections for any of the Atlas layouts I've built. Certainly no more power feeds than would be needed with any other brand.

You'll find "track brand loyalists" in this segment of the hobby just like you'll find brand loyalists who believe only one make of locomotives or rolling stock is worth buying. Take such exaggerated comments with a large grain of salt.

Try several banks of track yourself, and then decide what's best for you. My guess is you'll be very happy with the Atlas system.

Marxalot: I don't have any of the original Marx stuff, but I have a ton of the New Marx trains. They all run just fine on my Atlas track and short-radius switches.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 5:14 PM
Bob,

I am also trying to make a DMIR layout using O gauge track and haven't had much success finding information on layout designs since most models of the DMIR are in HO as I am sure you know. I am also needing to make a modular design since I know I will be moving in the future. Any information on your design would be greatly appreciated.

Dan

quote]Originally posted by DMIR Railroader

Does anyone have any big problems with Atlas O track, i recently decided that i'd be building in that style of track because it looks more realistic, will Atlas O track run MTH, Lionel, K-line etc. locos, frieght, etc. fine, are there any know problems, will be ordering track soon and would like to hear any complaints or compliments to the Atlas track.

thanks!

Bob
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Posted by eZAK on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 6:03 PM
"...any track system with blackened center rail needs to have the black coating removed from the railhead of that center rail."

"I have never used--or needed--any more than one or two track-to-transformer connections for any of the Atlas layouts I've built."

"Take such exaggerated comments with a large grain of salt."

Does the hot air ever stop?
Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew!</font id="size2"> Pat Zak</font id="size3">
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Posted by overall on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 6:57 PM
I love atlas track because the switches are so reliable. I have only had one problem with electrical continuity in a center rail. I fixed it with a jumper around the problem spot.Any time you want to solder a wire to the center rail, you have to remove the black coating at the place where the solder is to be applied. I wish I had built my entire layout with atlas track. I have it on the new part of my layout and it works great.

George
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Posted by mickey4479 on Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:41 AM
Some like it, some don't. I like Atlas and have it on my layout. I do agree that on the longer turnouts, adjustments on the pickups are needed for shorter locos sometimes. Regarding the comment about problems with kinks using flex track in curves, I use flex track only in areas where the radius I need is larger than 072. Otherwise, I use 072 or 081 curves. Flex is easy to cut with a dremel for splicing in. I always screw in first 4 holes of the flex track on the ends to help maintain the bend of the track on the ends. This has worked for me. If you are bending flex track for anything smaller than an 072 curve, I can see that extra screws would be necessary. Depending on the length of the layout, extra ground wires do help maintain reliable operation. I have ground wires every 8 to 10 feet.

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