questions about homasote

[Anonymous]

Jim,

On model railroads you apply ballast after the track is down. Also, I use Elmer's white glue not yellow carpenter's glue. Yes, it's true that white glue will soften if you need to apply more glue after it dries but it will harden again. However, I beg to disagree with Brianel 027- I don't understand why that is a problem. The softening actually works to your benefit if you should ever want to replace or remove ballasted track.

Dennis

[Jumijo]

QUOTE: Originally posted by brianel027

Hey Reading, if you're going to use screws, try using nylon or plastic screws. Even though the homosote is a noise deadening surface, using metal screws will still help to transfer noise from the surface into the heavier wood frame. Same goes for attaching your track. I use 027 track that is ballasted. Once the ballast was dry, I found I could remove a lot of track screws and the track stays in place. If noise level isn't a concern for you, then I guess it doesn't matter.

On glue, try Elmer's Carpenters Wood Glue. It's water soluable when wet, but when it dries, will not be effected by water. You still mix down the glue with water as CSXT30 mentioned above, also adding some liguid dish detergent to help with flow. Pre-wetting the area to be glued with some water in a sprayer bottle can also help insure the glue gets into everything you want it to. This can be important when ballasting and you find you need to apply some more glue. Regular Elmer's White Glue will get soft again when you apply more glue over the ballast.

Brianel027,

Would you please explain in more detail how you ballasted your O27 track? Do you lay track over the glued ballast or do you put the track down first and spread the ballast over the track? I'm about to begin this step of layout building and I'd appreciate any info on this you can provide.

Jim

[brianel027]

Reading, I used some kind of brown that was on sale in the clearance corner of the paint shop. I figured what color is underneath all that grass and growth? Brown for dirt, right. But you could use some kind of earth green, grey or even black. I'd say whatever happens to be on sale... check your paint dealer for mistints: they usually mark them down a lot. Use latetx paint though... dries faster and water cleanup.

[Anonymous]

OK, thanks for the advice so far. Good info that is much appreciated. Now, I have another question. I watched the Woodland Scenics DVD again last night, and I know what kind of scenery stuff I want to do (lots of ground cover, some grassy areas, mountains, lots of trees. But, What Color Should I Paint the Homasote? I know I need to put primer on it to let paint (primer) be absorbed and to seal the homasote. Then I plan to lay track on top of that (will probably skip cork roadbed). I will add scenery on top of homasote. But, areas of homasote will probably show through in some places. So, what color do I paint it?

thanks!

[CB&Q]

[:D]
Reading&pa I used painters caulking from home depot if you decide to change track design later all you have to do is take a 3" putty knife to it and gently run it under it ,it will pull away from the plywood and yet not destroy the homesote so you can reuse again use a few screws to hold in place overnite and then remove I haven't had any problems with it letting go it's been 2 years since I tried this Idea. the down side to using cork roadbed it does dry out and is a pain to remove. you can cut homesote to size and cut a bevel for both sides to achieve a banked look to roadbed anyone out there have the info on doing this I've seen it on a video somewhere?? hope this gives you some more Ideas to try.

[theswitchman]

I'm pretty sure that I have never heard of homasote out here in Nevada. Several weeks ago I visited with a local model railroad club, HO, and asked what they used. They said something called Delta Rubber, which to my understanding isn't really rubber. They said it was used in the building trade and is available at Home Depot. I have yet to check that out.

[brianel027]

Hey Reading, if you're going to use screws, try using nylon or plastic screws. Even though the homosote is a noise deadening surface, using metal screws will still help to transfer noise from the surface into the heavier wood frame. Same goes for attaching your track. I use 027 track that is ballasted. Once the ballast was dry, I found I could remove a lot of track screws and the track stays in place. If noise level isn't a concern for you, then I guess it doesn't matter.

On glue, try Elmer's Carpenters Wood Glue. It's water soluable when wet, but when it dries, will not be effected by water. You still mix down the glue with water as CSXT30 mentioned above, also adding some liguid dish detergent to help with flow. Pre-wetting the area to be glued with some water in a sprayer bottle can also help insure the glue gets into everything you want it to. This can be important when ballasting and you find you need to apply some more glue. Regular Elmer's White Glue will get soft again when you apply more glue over the ballast.

[lionelsoni]

I use unframed half-inch BC plywood, with legs whereever I need them. I stiffen longer spans with 1 1/4" steel angle fastened to the plywood with 1/4"-20 x 1" carriage bolts.

[CNJfan]

I glued the homosote using Liquid Nails then I screwed it to the plywood.
After a few days, I removed the screws not to have any sounds transfer through the screw into the plywood.
Yes, I painted my homosote using flat latex paint with a roller. One coat was fine.
I also painted the edges along with the border of the bottom of each sheet. The width of the 9" roller for the border.
Hope this helps,
Tim Callahan

[Sturgeon-Phish]

The sag on shelves is a weight per square foot and free span thing. My table is 2x4 frame 24" on center with 7/16 waferboard. I can easily walk on it (at 210#) with no problem. I used the CTT article for my walls and they turned out better than I expected. After buying the basic colors, I used acrylic craft paint to tint the basic colors for the shade variations for details like ridges and valleys. Just mix up a batch in jar or cup.
Good luck
Jim

[Anonymous]

thanks for the advice!

I think I;ll go with screwing down the homasote, rather than using any glue.

My benchwork is a beast! Every book I read about layouts discouraged this sort of construction. Everyone tells me that 2x4's all around and 3/4 inch plywood is overkill. Then again, nearly every shelf in every closet in my house is sagging, so I wanted to avoid that for the layout at all costs. Therefore, I am using what I hope will be sag-proof design.

[csxt30]

[#welcome] Reading & PA RR ! When I first started using homosote, we mixed white glue with water at 50 % . But then I found myself always ripping it up & changing the design, so I started using screws to hold it down, making for easier changes. It never seems to hump up or anything for me. I've always used it for building wings for R/C aircraft & structures, & they come out nice & straight. It's nice to put pins in over plans & wax paper. I do put the screws about every 8 or 10 inches, though. I think any paint will work, it's very pourus & the white glues thinned down w / water holds your ballast nicely. Sounds like your benchwork will be great with 3/4" plywood & 2x4s'. Hope this helps, thanks, John

[Anonymous]

I have some questions about homasote.

How do I attach the homasote to the plywood? Can I just screw it down through the plywood and into the 2x4’s that form the frame for the benchwork? Or, do I need to glue it down? If so, what type of glue and do I need to know any special wisdom before doing this?

I plan to paint the homasote first, because people on the OGR forum have mentioned that the homasote absorbs well, and I will be adding glued-down scenery elements. What can I use to paint it? Do I need any special kind, or should I just use the right color of flat latex? As for the right color, I will probably use something that is like a brownish-grey with light splotches of green here and there.

Background info:
I am building a layout in my dining room (about 9’ x 13’). The benchwork is done and is made of frames and legs that are made out of 2x4’s. The table tops are ¾ inch plywood. The walls were painted sky blue, and will now get mountains, near hills, and a tree line painted in (as per an article from last fall in CTT). I am going to put down homasote panels on top of the plywood, then lay down cork roadbed and then lay track on top of that. Scenery elements and buildings will be added.

Thank you for your help and ideas.